Scott, Check FishSticks....they have some of the heavy stuff in stcok I am pretty sure. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Were bottling this week, and I ma finishing up nthe artwork. We made one small adjustment to the formula that held up bottling a few days. It will be ready for sale by the end of the month. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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"I do a lot of Tartans and I have to paint the wrap section with flat white paint. When I cover it with Threadmaster, why does it turn yellowish." Because no hardener is perfectly water clear. I take that back, when ours first comes out of the factory it is water clear, but as breakdown occurs with age, they all have some hint of yellow to them, some worse than others. I have bottle
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This effect is not there when the finish is placed on a test panel that has been painted arctic white, so it has to be some interaction with the thread. We've run many transparency tests on these test panels, and this effect has never shown up, so I am guessing it's the thread. I'd like to see this though....it could be used for a cool effect. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Dave, Emai me directly please. Since Lance is not a sponsor, i'd rather not post his info. here on the board. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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I bet Swampland Rods is who you got them from....I don't think anyone else had acrylic blanks. Lance Dupre is the owner's name. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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You can certainly overwarm any finish thereby reducing potlife. I had one guy who was putting it in a pot of boiling water for 5 minutes, and then couldn't figure out why it set up so fast??? If you're gonna nuke it....6 seconds is about all you want to go. A good rule of thumb is that if you grip the bottle with your hand and can fell the heat, it's MUCH too warm. You only want it about 70-75 de
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Mike, We investigated that technology prior to developing ThreadMaster, but found it not really lending itself to this application for a number of reasons....mainly cost. Ray, There have been no reported issues with Flex's Color Preserver, and ThreadMaster has been on the market almost 2 years now. So it's safe to say that the two are compatible. I think you guys will really
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Yes, the penetration is much better because of the thinner viscosity....shouldn't be any need for Permagloss as a primer coat. I just finished a CTS 8wt. with the prototype formula and it penetrated very very well. However I never really had any penetration problems with the High Build, but some of that depends on your geographic environment...it stays warm down here in my shop in Texas 10 months
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That sample you saw at the show is NOT what will be the final product. We passed on the version that you saw at the show because it was a bit too soft. It worked great as an undercoat, but not so much as a topcoat. The final version we are releasing will be suitable for either a primer/undercoat or a final topcoat by itself. It's very VERY durable....much moreso than the sample you saw at the sho
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We have finalized the formula for the Lite and sent a few samples out to my test builders. As soon as they give me the thumbs up, we'll start packaging it. The artwork/labeling is ready to go so the actual bottling won't take long. I am anticipating that we'll start packaging next week. The formula we've got is REALLY nice. It's about 30% lighter in viscosity than the High Build...I would say
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Jim, I completely understand, and Stephen or myself known the turnaround was going to be that, I think you know we would have told you so. I am sure you know that nobody was more frustrated with the delays than me......there for a couple of months I was a bald headed dart board. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Jim, You are correct, many people folks are just now recieving their blanks from late last year because of a backup in production in New Zealand. As you are aware from your personal correspondence with Stephen he has taken full responsability for the delays, and has been very apologetic on many occasions, including many "in person" apologies in his booth in High Point. Addit
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Under 24 hours is best. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Ernie, Provided the inside of the gimbal is prepped correctly it will be just fine. However, if you want the "Ultimate" in adhesion to substrates such as anodized aluminum, our regular Ultimate Epoxy is what you want. This product was formulated to adhere things such as glass, concrete, ceramic, and hard to bond metals. Our standard Ultimate Epoxy cures to the touch in abou
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Absolutely, just be sure that when you apply the epoxy to the face of the ring, you scrape all of it back off so as to only leave a wetted out surface. This way you'll not get any glue lines. This goes for any paste adhesive, be it Ultimate Epoxy, RodBond, Kardol, PC-7.... Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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4oz. ,8oz. and larger pint sizes are special order. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Green Scotchbrite pads can be found at any grocery store in the cleaning section. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Dave, There is warranty information in the CTS catolog. It's 5 years against manf. defects. User induced defects due to car doors and ceiling fans, and overall misuse that do not fall under the manf. warranty will be replaced for a nominal fee. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Todd, It doesn't peel, What it does is repel the second coat while it's still wet...in other words right after you apply it, the second coat will "bead up" much like water on a car that has been waxed. Obviously the effect is not that severe, but that's the best analogy I can think of. It's one of the drawbacks of having a finish with a VERY high dep
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I just spoke with Larry....problem solved. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Actually it's only VERY slightly heavier but that's it. When people weigh this stuff they dont take into consideration that my exotic burl rings are slightly larger in diameter than the standard 1.25". Our rings measure out a little bigger than 1.25 " so if you sand them down to equal the size tof standard burl cork the weights are listed below. The weights are as follows given equal
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Larry, You told me 6 months ago that you had this problem fixed????? If you'll go back and serach the archives I have outlined many times that ThreadMaster dries much harder, slicker and shinier than other finishes, so you can't wait the normal 24-48 hours to apply subsequent coats. 24 hours is really on the outside of what's allowable. By the time you let it dry overnight, appl
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Jason, I don't take offenseto anything anyone says about my products as long as they understand that epoxies don't have a mind of their own, and that they can't make decisions to work for one person and not another! 9 time out of 10 it's ALWAYS user error. If you are flaming LS as you say, you're doing the one thing that Ralph O'Quinn (formulator of LS) says specifically no
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JAson, I tried emailing you some additional info. but your address is hidden........ Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Jason, The lack of leveling is your application technique not the epoxy....they will all level perfectly if applied correctly. In fact from the feedback were getting from builders like Jim Upton, Hiro Tanaka and Michael Joyce is that TM actually levels with LESS EFFORT.....notice I didn't say better, just less effort than most other resins. If you're dealing with an open wrap a
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Tony, If you're getting a "froth" you need to drastically adjust your mixing technique. It's not the epoxy thta's cusing that. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Steven, Would you email me privately so we can discuss this in further detail? I'd like to nail down exactly what you're doing (or not doing) so we can resolve this. Only a few of you are having this problem, and I'd like to figure out what it is. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Next month will see the release of the 15 minute, as well as the 5 minute in larger packaging. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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Ironically, I wish I could find the combination that DOES produce bubbles. I've been at it for 2 years and can't recreate any bubbling problem like only a few of you describe. I've mixed it in hot ,cold damp, dry and every combination thereof.....no more or less bubbles than any other finish. Andy Dear Lamar Fishing
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