Skip - To answer your question " CP" stands for Color Preserver which is used to maintain the true color of standard Nylon thread when Epoxy is applied. Without CP nylon will go translucent and the color of the thread will dramatically change depending on how dark the blank is. The second type of thread used is "NCP " , which is nylon with an additive that makes it opaqu
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If you are looking for thread to be used in inlays or as trim you should look at Kreinik, USA made in Parkersburg W.Va. Look under Fly Tying and under Metallics. I use their blending filament for inlays in 032 Pearl and find it picks up a hint of what ever color thread you using with silverish cast to it. Subdued yet noticeable. They make a peacock in this line as well. In fly tying they
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Bob, I think he meant over. How could a clear coat under the thread possibly stop a dark blank from showing through when the thread turns translucent ?
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X 2 on the Hobby Lathe. I had one for years and kind of miss it as a backup. The only "problem" with the older ones was the drill barrel diameters it would accept -standart Milwaukee, Makita,etc would not fit without modification. However Grizzly's Drill functioned flawlessly during the years I had the lathe and was inexpensive.
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If you would be so kind, I would also like info. Thansk, Bob
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I also blew it in the reading department. I missed the "P" and read it as a "B". The difference between the 6-6 & 7 in the travel was so big that if I were in your shoes rather than buy a blank to find it is unsuitable for your use I would call either Utmost and get an opinion or Batson directly. Carol at Batson is very helpful and if she is unsure she will put you i
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Either you erred on the model or looked at the wrong lines in the chart. Both the 843 & the 783 ring in at 10 -17 lb & 5/16 to 3/8 oz. I have not encountered the one piece versions but have the 3 piece SB781 & SB841, which the specs you listed. The difference in the tip is huge. The 781 has a much softer tip than the 841, so much so that I did not use either. The rods are going
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Agree with Kens selection, just make sure they say Poly on the lable as there is a lot of rayon in sewing shops. Rayon does not like our finishes. Do expect a larger, more vibrant color selection.
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Before dumping chemicals on I would put a piece of your line in it to make sure the chemical will not cause problems. Hate to lose a good fish because I caused chemical reaction with the line.
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I also have the Foredom. They are American made in Bethel Ct, and have a very fine line of power tools. I have an accessory that clamps to a bench or table top and to the hand held portion of the tool letting you hold guides, etc against a stationary wheel rather using the tool as a handheld. Being USA made, availabily of parts & accessories is assured and, as a company, they are very ea
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I also have the Foredom. They are American made in Bethel Ct, and have a very fine line of power tools. I have an accessory that clamps to a bench or table top and to the hand held portion of the tool letting you hold guides, etc against a stationary wheel, rather than using the tool as a handheld. Being USA made, availabily of parts & accessories is assured and they are very easy to de
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According to the list he is no longer a sponsor.
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If you want it to blend in with the graphite you might try Fish Hawk Charcoal #441
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I started out with that unit and it works fine within is light duty lilitations.. I think you get it to start off with and direct the rest of your budget toward a good set of mandrels. Threaded rod will assure you get wobble and runout. If a proper mandrel is not available a piece of drill rod supported at both ends should be very close. In the beginning human error is going to be your big
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Chris, I would also like the names of the ones that you use. Madeira is coated. Thanks.
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In my experience the problem with the modern rings id the swage to fit the reel.. The original style rings in the early 50's did not hane this swage and did not loosen. The easiest fix I found was to simply rotate the swage 90 degrees (away from your casting hand) thereby creating the original design. And yes they will push into the handle as they were meant to - to prevent slippage. The
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Roger, they are installed the same as a plate seat or a guide- with thread and epoxy . Fuji designed then, I believe, for use with the plate seat.
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Chris - I have one in hand. The length is 3.250 in length, .680 width,.175 to where blank would hit and 1.090 from blank to bottom of trigger. If you strike out with Mud Hole contact me as I have a few of them and would part with one to help you out. I have used them with plate seats. Bob
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Dug out 3 for you. Need a mailing address. Bob
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I have been using them for years. I get mine from local orthodontists. They come in 3.5 oz bags (lots of them) and have been charged as little as nothing to as high as 1.25 a bag. Local guys carry four sizes - on small tips double the small ones. When they hear what you are using them for they get a kick out of it and the price seems to drop. The shipping would be more than the bands not
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I would give REC a call in Conn. They might be able to modify one of their exsisting seats or simply add an extra nut to one of their seats to fit your needs.
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Rubber is the tubing I am talking about - easily available on the East coast.
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Ken - This sounds like shrink tubing available from any large electrical wholesaler. The shrink tube can be had in very small sizes from Radio Shack - have used it to cover soldered repairs on CNC machine wires size 24 or so - up to covering welding cables dragging on concrete flooring 10 hrs. a day. Basically the same as X Flocking without the pattern. I have used this on some rods I hav
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That ribbon could also be easily done as a weave. With the small diameter rod lay the length of the ribbon parallel with the rod length rather than perpendicular to the length.
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Jay - I use 2 benches 6'2" long x 16 1/2 " wide in my shop and find them plenty wide. The tops are 1 1/8 " butcherblock with 3 - 19" x5 1/2" x 13" deep drawers under. There is a fixed shelf on the bottom and a mid shelf you can position as desired. The entire bench is hardwood - no pressboard, cardboard or plastic. These are from IKEA- Model is Norden occasion
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Tom is being modest. His Rodbuilding Guide is is probably easiest to understand, most complele resource for a beginner out there.
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Could also be you did not completly mix that batch of epoxy and that guide received an improper mix.
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Bill, prehaps I was not clear on my inital post. The reaction was due to spraying the Fixatif, not the epoxy. I've used the Fixatif over ink in the past with no adverse result. The finish that Fenwick used on that glass did not like Fixatif. The reaction was on both the blank and the decal. Bob
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Be very careful with the decal on that blank. I did an NOS Fenwick that appears to be the same as yours, 7 1/2 ft 6 wt. I seem to recall the model was 906. I tried to finish over the decal by first spraying Krylon Fixatif over it. There was a bad reaction between the finish both on the decal and the rod. I ended weaving Fenwick and the specs to cover the mess. I had no reaction with Thr
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Be very careful with the decal on that blank. I did an NOS Fenwick that appears to be the same as yours, 7 1/2 ft 6 wt. I seem to recall the model was 906. I tried to finish over the decal by first spraying Krylon Fixatif over it. There was a bad reaction between the finish both on the decal and the rod. I ended weaving Fenwick and the specs to cover the mess. I had no reaction with Thr
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