Earl I use a self built lathe and it works out perfectly for my purposes. I found a salvage 1/2hp variable speed motor, a couple of old floor mount bank hold up buttons, used some long scrap aluminum angles and plywood. I sawed my V block support stands out of some scrap boards. It's not very pretty, but it works very well for both wrapping and drying my rods. Take a shot at rolling your own l
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I just start my tip-top guide wraps as I would a guide wrap and stop it at the edge of the tip top. Then I finish apply the finish the same as a guide wrap on the butt side and run the finish slightly onto the tip-top tube. I also lighten up the thread tension slightly on the last few guide wraps and the top wrap just to make the thread pull through a little easier. rog
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I use only the waterslide type nail decals. The tattoo type may dissolve / smear when applying finish. The waterslide type doo work well and are sized right for most rods. Rog
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sharp parting tool !
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I mostly use ProWrap and Fuji threads. ProWrap has the best selection of colors available and I choose ProWrap when color selection matters. Otherwise I choose The Fuji thread because you can't beat the quality of any of their threads, and I especially like their NoCP threads! I still have a good selection of the older Gudebrod thread in both reg nylon and metallic and wish it were still being ma
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Thanks for all of the ideas! Interesting idea Ron S.! Rog
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conventional
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Good morning all! I have built many spinning rods for family and friends, and have always located the hook keeper on the left side of the rod close to the fore grip. Now I am building my first bait casting rod and I am unsure if the same location would be ok for a hook keeper on a casting rod. Since I have never fished a casting rod I'm not sure what what would be the best out of the way spot fo
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Mark I still use single edge razor blade to trim the guide wrap threads after i pull them through the wrap. I find I do not get a close enough cut off with fly tying scissors and always seem to have a "nub" left above the wrap that needs trimming. The trimming of this nub seems to be the downfall of many a nice clean wrap!! Rog
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I also do exactly as Michael and Roger do. I also just bought the CRB alignment tool and am going to give it a try next week. Rog
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Is there a way to remove or edit items listed on the buy / sell page? Thanks Rog
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U40 brush cleaner is "magic" stuff!
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heating epoxy before application speeds up the curing process. it is possible that the epoxy is setting up before the bubbles can release. if you must heat the epoxy don't over heat it. i also agree with gary's post! rog
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Charlie I'm a hobby builder, and have found out over the last 12 or 15 years that you probably can't build a rod for any less money (buying components retail) than you can buy a similar off the rack rod. But you can sure build a better fishing & nicer looking rod! I've built around 35 or so rods and have gotten pretty good at it, and prefer my own builds over retail rods any day!! Rog
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paul i have used lots of the st. croix kits in the past. here's how i fit the plug. shave or slice a little off of the plug with a razor blade to fit. the plug doesn't have to be perfectly round. make it a little larger than the hole in the grip and force the plug in with your thumb. you will wan't a little of the plug left sticking out of the grip after gluing and pressing the plug in. slice
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large variety of snake skin patterns, pro & college sports logos, large variety of abalone pattern colors. Rog
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Barry It may also be a CRB (Mudhole) blank. I have a few of these blanks that are several years old and some of them have a sticker on the butt end with "AMSP701-L", "AMSP701-M" and "AMSP601-L" on them. I would assume 6"6" medium. Rog
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I'm a rodbuilder from Altoona ! Rog
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I'm with John T. Elastic dental bands do the trick for me. Then I do a temporary 10 or 12 thread wrap to hold the guides a little more securely to the rod blank - align the guides - start the final guide wrap and cut the temporary thread wrap and dental band off, and finish the final guide wrap. Rog
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I also prefer Fuji NoCP (in white) over other brands. Rog
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Tucker I use 5 or 6 different spinning reels depending on where I will be fishing and how I will be fishing. I have measured spool diameter for all, and also have measured the reels of my fishing buddies. If I will be building a rod to be used with an unknown reel I use the "average" spool diameter for the approximate series of reel that will be used. Rog
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I just e-mailed you my own list, (hope I did it right !) Rog
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I repaired a small leak in my aluminum boat with epoxy finish. I needed something that would flow into a "hard to get to" spot! Rog
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Norman is correct. I still have a few also. Rog
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Chris I made several test wraps last year looking for the "whitest white I could get. I chose size A Fuji nocp white with 2 coats of chromaseal over the other threads I had on hand! Rog
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Trace Unhide your email address and I'll send you my own article index list for RodMaker mag. Rog
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Jon U40 hands down !!! Rog
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The easiest way I have found for removing glued up grips from a mandrel (I prefer a smoothmandrel) is to drill a hole in your workbench, place one end of your mandrel in the hole and tap the top with a hammer until the mandrel loosens. Then continue tapping until the mandrel is flush with the cork then use a slightly smaller rod (old sawed off screwdriver) to tap the mandrel on througth the grip.
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I use a small rubber roller to "burnish" the decal to the blank, and then apply a coat of Krylon fixatiff. Always works for me! (The roller has a name, but I can't recall it - it's used in relation to transfer printing etc.) Rog
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I'm 63 and rodbuilding has been my hobby for about the last 15 years. I build mainly for friends and family (and there seems to be an awful lot of friends and family) and every once in a while I get to finish a rod for myself! I would hope to get the opportunity to someday share my building experience with a younger guy or girl (teen ?), and at least teach them to avoid all of the "mistakes&
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