I'd like to make my first cork + wood inserts grip, but I don't know where to buy woods (rosewood, camelwood,...) in Spain. Is any internet store to buy from?.
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Dear friends, I'm trying to reapir a friend's rod. I'd like to put a coat of finish in some places where the blank coat was lost. Where can I buy pigments to be added to finish?. I use to buy at Mudhole, but I could'n found them. Wich kind of pigments are they?.
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Dear friends, I made a post on Friday asking for help about wrapping AFTCO lightweitght roller guides. Remember frames are made of graphite. They look really cool, but feet are very rough. In my post I wrote: "First problem is that thread does not "slip" over the guides feet. Graphite finish is made very rough and it's finished like this for some reason. I imagin it's not
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Dear friends, I had read about using CP with regular nylon and how it becomes translucent if no color preserver is applied. But I couldn't imagine the effect, so I decided to make some test, including NCP thread. I made some layers of regular nylon, size A from Gudebrod (light blue, 037) and the same but NCP thread. You can see the result on (excuse me but I don't know how to include
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Dear friends, I asked about these rollers some weeks ago, just to know your opinion about them. I've just received a set of them and I'm beginning to find the first problems. First problem is that thread does not "slip" over the guides feet. Graphite finish is made very rough and it's finished like this for some reason. I imagin it's not to be scuffed, filed,... Is there any t
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You can see them at more or less a third from the top, on the right side. There are two of them, aluminium and graphite. I think they are to hold the reel in the handle, as William and Robert suggested, although I'd like to see some picture. How can you adjuste them? Are they glued over the reel?
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I've seen spin rings in a catalog. I've asked and read some posts, but I cannot understand what are they used for. Is there any picture in fishingphotos.net to see these spin rings?
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My first double wrapped rod is a 50 lb jigging rod. It has a Gudebrod HT size A underwrap, a coat of finish and then a Gudebrod HT size A overwrap. I've not tested it already, but I wish this single size A overwrap will be enough. I'm not sure 100% but I'm confidence it will.
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No doubt, I not a "complete newbie" but just in the next step. No doubt for books: T. Kirkman's "Rod Building Guide" as a guide, covering all basics. Dale P. Clemens' ones for a most deep explanations. And regarding videos, Ken Preston will let you see how things are done, further to that you can understand in the books. Finally, if you go to make weaving in the future, Doc
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Can anyone confirm if these blue framed guides from Amtac (GZBS, for example) are suitable for saltwater rods? I ask this because I've seen "fireball red" and "mean green" framed guides from Mud Hole and they are recommended for freshwater only... Thank you again, Daniel
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Dear friends, Maybe someone wrote about this, but I couldn't find it. This can be the first time I "ive ideas" instead of asking for help. I don't know: let's try. When applying finish over one wrap, I heat the previously coated one by using one of these old "flexible" lamp, with a 40 watts bulb. I put it about 6 to 8 inches from the coated wrap. IThis system lets me th
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I read in Mudhole's catalog that AFTCOTE Rod wrapping Finish is a "two-part urethane-modified, custom mixed epoxy. Non-yellowing and UV resistant. Super High-gloss sheen" I've read many times in this phorum that urethane finishes (mostly Perma Gloss) have excelent finish and gloss, with the problem of self-polymerization (short life once opened). Is this AFTCOTE as good as other u
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Thank you to everybody for your comments. After reading your comments, it seems that CP was not dry enough. This problem could be even increased due to the fact that it could enter between metallic part and core. I didn't thin CP, so this was not the problem. As Cliff says, metallic thread don't need CP. The problem is that I read in Dale P. Clemens book that he used it always, not juts to pre
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As promised, I enclose a first picture of my first "serious" rod. It's a 30-60 lb 6'0'' jigging rod. This is the one I wrapped with silver metallic underwrap nd blue metallic overwrap. The question is that I wanted to test if a coat of CP would avoid metallic blue thread to darken after finish would be applied. After making underwrap, I aplied a coat of Amtac lite fonosh, then a m
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To those that never experienced these problems: which brand of metallic thread are you using?
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I think Ellis is right and these bumps are from pieces of mylar that have separated from the thread. I pass the thread through a "table clamp rod wrapper" I bought in Mudhole. Mayve I use to much tension and mylar separates when it pass through the screweye. I also pass the thread between my fingers to position it into the blank. I sometimes feel like a "knot", but I don't
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I've already done my first double wrap. Underwrap gave no problems (thank for your support), but I'm having lots of problems with overwrap. It's made with Gudebrod size A metallic thread and it produces lots of "spots" once the finish is applied. These spots are like the ones produced when trimming the thread the tagg end remains in the surface but they are all over the wrap (1 or two o
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And what is the scoff for?. To make both different products to bond?. When is it necessary and when it isn't?
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Hi, Bill And can I use Permagloss for the underwraps and then any other finish for the overwrap?
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Dear friends, I've beeing watching some videos and I've seen people marking the blans with permanent markers, to locate wraps. These markers are not "permanent" when using alcohol. How are these marks cleaned after wraping?. I think there is a risk of "painting" threads.
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Dear friends, I've already finish the underwrap and coated with a first layer of finish (American Tackle Lite finish). I used a credit card as you adviced. The question is that I want to make the overwrap tomorrow. Finish will have been curing for 36 hours, so I think it will be enough. But I'm afraid about leaving fingerprints over the coating while wraping the overwrap. Is there any wa
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Thank yuo to everybody. Bill: No I cant. I'm afraid I'm on of the few (if not the only) rodbuildier in Spain. At least, I don't know anyone else. Best regards, Daniel
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What I don't understand is if the spatule, credit card, playing card,... is used like a "tongue" or like a "comb". It's really hard to explain without images!!!!!!
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And, can I wait for two or three days before adding overwrap?. If I leave it without finish coating, then I must coat it on Monday and I cannot overwrap till tuesday. Is it like this???
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When going to make an underwrpa/overwrap and thinking about not working on Saturday and Sunday, which is the best point to leave the job till Monday? - Just after wraping underwrap thread, before coating with finish? - After applying finish? Can I leave first coat (this between underwrap and overwrap) for 3 days before wraping overwrap?. Is in this situation use CP or finish, if I have to w
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If understood that a good way to apply a thin finish coat over the underwap is using a credi card to take off finish once applied. The question is: If we imagin the blank horizontal to the floor, is the card to be used flat or vertical?.
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OK, I'm goint to make my first double wraping and I want to be sure of all steps: 1. Underwrap with size A silver thread 2. A coat of Color Preserver or lite finish WHICH ONE? 3. Overwrap with size D metallic blue thread 4. Color preserver? 5. Lite finish? 6. High build finish? I've read that most of you use CP even if not necessary. I also think coat after underwrap is just to make ea
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Hi, my friends, yes, you have confirmed what I thought. I know a guy in the Canary Islands who had (now he hasn't it yet) the IGFA record for yellowfin (something like 360 lb) with 50 lb line!! I've already explained the risk of finishing into the water. I also think 70 lb drag is not possible to handle, at least for common humans!!. As Jeff says, bottom fishing is slightly different to
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Hi, my friends, yes, you have confirmed what I thought. I know a guy in the Canary Islands who had (now he hasn't it yet) the IGFA record for yellowfin (something like 360 lb) with 50 lb line!! I've already explained the risk of finishing into the water. I also think 70 lb drag is not possible to handle, at least for common humans!!. As Jeff says, bottom fishing is slightly different to
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The question I have is how to choose the components starting from the reel. We usually choose the line weight ("I want a 50 lb stand up rod") and line and reels are choosen from this. But in this case I have the reel from which my friend wants to have the maximum power and I must choose the blank. How is it done?.
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