When your 6'2" standing in a foot of water...it is almost impossible to land a fish w a 9' fly rod with out a bit of high sticking. But understanding that you are putting pressure on the rod and allowing the fish to go if it starts to take off helps....also for trout the really light tippets normally break before the rod. Just trying to point out that their are circumstances when it i
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Karen, Called me back...they primarily do mail order. She gratiously offer to put an order together for me to p/u. I didn't really have specific needs but was just wanting to browse and shop while in the area. karen was very nice I will definetely order from them in the future
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Does anyone know if they have a retail store or are just operating a mail order only type business? I am going to be in KC and was thinking of stopping in. I have heard many good things about them from other people on this site. I did leave a VM but haven't heard back yet.
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Jeff, The batson components are are great value. I don't think you will be disappointed.
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Steve Thanks for the info... I will be interested in Andy's finish also.
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What size recoils did you use?
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I read a post on another board from a guy who was making spigot ferrules. His advise for a ferrule that was slightly lose was to put a coat of epoxy on the male end then with a lint free cloth wipe it off. He found that by wiping away most of the epoxy the residual film layer was enough in most case to tighten up the ferrule. I have never tried this and am not necessarily saying you should but
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Mike, Have you tried cleaning your line? Some times you can reduce the friction markedly with a product like zipcast. When the line is under tension (w the exception of the back cast) it should be touching the metal part of the guide only.
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Chris, Fred & Cliff Thanks for the responses....I'm a bit worried about permagloss...I read so many horror stories about it causing paint to bleed. Cliff, No more CB's (unless drvr puts his/her own in) all done on computers with satellite feeds going to each trk....no more 10-4 good buddy. Didn't mean to sound ungrateful for your advice but I tried the paint guys first to no avail
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hmmm... Reelseat....Struble vs. Batson...kind of like an Escalade vs. Tahoe...struble is nicer but Batson will be just as functional. Guides...same sort of deal...how much money do you wanna spend? Alconites are a good guide choice IMO. I would go with titanium coated finish especially if you are using it in the salt. Most people use size "A" regular gudebrod thread. "H
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How old was the rod? Sometimes if their is a flaw in the blank the first time you load the rod up with a large amount of force it will break at this point. It is not common in my experience that the rod should break in 2 places. I would send the blank in. If you crushed it in a car door it would be splintered. Most of the time companies don't like to tell you without seeing the blank that
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You forgot ceiling fans....my wife broke a tip off one of my fly rods this way...I still married her.
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This duplicolor can lists the color as not needing a clear coat ( some colors have the letters CC after the automotive color code which means they require a clear coat). I bought it at a store and nobody there new anything about using it for anything other than on a vehicle. Cliff.........I love your posts....great info and sometimes you crack me up....but I do want to know from the last rod b
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I just painted my first blank.....used dupli color metallic autmotive paint... My question is do I need a clear coat on top of this finish....the paint doesn't require this for its normal use on an automobile. The finish appears very hard and looks great.....just wondering if anyone has used this as a final finish and how does it hold up
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Josh, I doubt they are making up special blanks for these "signed" personalities. Most pro's like mentioned above get discounts or at best a free set of rods...there are only a handful of people who are signed to contracts to represent companies. Even in bass fishing circuits where sales would far out perform the fly fishing market. In fly fishing the pro's are pretty much guides
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Mike, I've heard this jig is also very good....FYI
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I have one of these with single ft wire Ti coated guides and it is one of my favorite rods. Measurement for stripper sounds too close...is he really small?
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The wonderful thing about nature is it always at some point humbles us......when my son was 3 he outfished three (way better than avg adult fisherman)one day with 4 foot snoopy rod and reel hooking and landing a 4 1/2 lb lm bass when no one else had caught a fish for 3 hrs. Congrats to your 9 yr old.....time to build him a nice forecast. You will have a fishin buddy for life!
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Mike, Just to clarify.....I use CP sometimes and just epoxy sometimes. Depending on how I want the thread to look. I didn't mean to sound biased one way or another just trying to help to understand what to expect with each technique. IMO if you do everything correctly with the finish it is more a matter of the style you like than that there is a major advantage to one way or another.
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It isn't necessary to use wood at all.....many other options are available. If you want to use wood...stabilized wood is the best finish hands down in salt or fresh water. You are impregnating the wood with acrylic. True oil treats only near the surface of the wood..you must continue to maintain the finish or it will fail to keep water out. Just my opinion.
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Scott, As mentioned above by Andy...put it on a flat surface(a pc of aluminum foil) works wonders....this will increase the working time. A bit of heat will help you to level it once it is applied. I always leave the aluminum foil and the disposible brush left in the remaining epoxy....when I get that stupid urge to touch the blank to see if it is dry...I just chk the rest of the batch left
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Scott, When you use CP it seals the thread so the epoxy never penetrates it....this is why the thread doesn't get thewet look to it. This can present a problem most rod builders are aware of...when you apply your finish over CP the epoxy will not get as good a bond to the blank....and you must make sure to fill the tunnels on either side of the guide feet. If you fail to fill the tunnels wate
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Anytime you finish without putting Color preserver our using NCP thread your thread will get a transparent look....the exception to this is with black thread. You will see the guide feet through the thread. The acetone seems to excentuate this type of effect.
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I will be moving back to Canada and also want to get a subscription but can't get Richard at Rod & Reel.
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Tom, It make sense to me what you are saying that the area just after a reinforced ferrule would be weaker but are these rods being broken because they have been put under more stress than they should be to begin with? At some point of stress won't all rods break? It just seems to me this would be a logical fracture point but first you have to stress the rod to that point. The blank should be
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Josh, Read the library...the glossary...and chk in tackle works for a rod builder in your area...perhaps someone who sells components. People who builds rods go overboard to help others interested. If you are a smart consumer you can save money........If you buy all high end blanks and components it won't cost you any less than a top end factory rod. Either way you can build a rod exactly t
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I think clemens thread art book covers tartans.......read that on another post...I have not seen this. Most of the ones I have seen start out with a layer of white NCP (Or very light color for a base coat) ...then you apply your cross wraps with your main colors(regular thread)...fill in with white...cover everything but the darkest showing colors...finish w thin coat of epoxy....the muted col
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Mark, Thanks for the info..this is kind of what I feared would happen. When I get some time I am going to play with it and see what I can come up with... Michael, My Mother's side of the family (MacNeil of barra) though Scottish also come from Irish decendants.
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I've got a couple old pcs of blank lying around...guess I will need to do some test wraps...If no one else replies. Thanks Billy
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BIlly, I agree with that but want to limit the number of wraps I have to cut off. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel.......Scottish clans have been using black watch tartans for over a 1000 yrs....but I haven't seen one reproduced on a rod. My thinking is someone has tried and failed...wondering if all the dark colors just get darker and you can't really see the detail of the tartan...wo
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