Rolly, At some point you are going to start losing fish to break offs (because of light line in clear water) with a heavier action, or you will hook less fish due to them being line shy and you using heavier line. It is a personal choice....some guys might only have 2 or 3 takes in a day but land them fairly easily with heavier line. With lighter line another guy might have 10 or 12 takes on a
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Tim, The reason these lighter rods were designed were primarily for Steelhead and Brown trout in Great Lakes Trib's. Because the water is clear very light lines are required....but you still need power. The leverage of the long rod and soft action to protect light tippetts accomplish both of these tasks. The long rods also as stated above allow for longer drifts with less drag because you have
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Paul, What you are talking about is Action & Power. They have in common length....style of grip....similar guide requirements...actions vary somewhat but even a stout 14 ft rod has a pretty good bend when loaded....what else is there? You are talking about using different styles of basically the same thing.........yes there are differences. And yes some are suited for different applica
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IMO........Basically the same thing............Drift ..Float.. Noodle. Depending on where you are at. I have lived in both the Great lakes and on the west coast. You can use a float or bottom bounce....center pin or spinning reel. You use lighter leaders for clearer water and trout which are line shy. Bigger rods for bigger water. Heavier actions for bigger fish and where you can get away w
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Black thread with silver or gold metalic trim looks great with black components..
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Bruce, You want to grind it with th following goals in mind.. 1) taper front "ramp" so thread goes up over the foot without a space. 2) taper sides of feet so as to minimize "tunnels" under thread beside feet. 3) clean up bottom of foot so there are no burrs and surface fits blank.
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Think Burkheimer blanks are blue??? Chk Lamar Fishing...
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Think Burkheimer blanks are blue??? Chk Lamar Fishing...
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Get the brad point..........best u can get for wood IMO. Almost all of the sites that sell pen making stuff have them in just about any size you can imagine.
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Wal-mart has brushes in the craft section that part cheap and do fine...think they have 30 or so in a package. If you buy expensive animal hair brushes they will last (artist quality) and do not shed if taken care of properly.
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Scott, You will have a blast with the lathe... On the cost thing I am more inclined to go with Tom's run down on cost and agree you can get by without an expensive sharpening system for starters though it is going to be a big help. Something else to consider...I make other things with my lathes. I have (not including the cost of my time) made enough money selling pens turned to pay for all
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MIchael, What is your thinking on your technique? I don't ever reach for the line when in my backcast cause it is already in my hand...not trying to criticize..just wondering what your train of thought is. I put mine right where the person can reach with the rod held just as if they had just cast and were reaching to p/u the line to start to strip.
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Hmmm....I agree with what Emory said earlier in this post about the rod being built in a way that is important and custom for the end user. Some of the factory rod builders make very good quality rods...but they are cookie cutter. When I make a rod for my son who is 7 I might not make it with the most expensive components, but I build it with a grip that fits his hand...throw some flames on on (w
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I think Angler's workshop carries Winston Blanks...not sure if they carry the Boron IIX??
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What about making a spiggot ferrule ? I have heard of the fibreglass guys replacing old metal ferrules using this technique?
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Do a search on guide hardness...coefficient of friction etc. This has been brought up before on this board.
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Robert, You might consider getting her a rod with a softer action.........a fast action rod is hard for a beginner to cast. With a slower rod a beginer can easily load up the rod...in short they are more forgiving. You can also find a good blank that is much cheaper in a softer action.....typically one based on IM6 graphite would be a good choice....I would recommend a forecast or tiger eye.
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Tyson, Most of the people using the long rods are using live bait and bobbers. The rods commercially available are composite blanks made offshore and can be bought for fairly low prices. Most of the blanks I have seen in this length available to customer builders are very expensive. I'm not sure you can make a marketing strategy work there??? I built a forecast 6 1/2 ft extra light rod for
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I work in transporation....while not exclusively in the small parcel type business, you would be shocked to find out how much of Fed Ex's and UPS's freight actually travels via 3rd party truck. All transporation is the same in some respects. Dramatically rising costs of fuel, Insurance, and lack of drivers have all been instrumental in driving costs through the roof. Because most transportation c
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Wow....talk about ruffling a few feathers... Cody, A couple things to think about... A response from you to maybe back up a couple steps might have taken a bit of heat off your response on this board. Some of my favorite rods and reels are older than you....you are not the first or only one to ever catch fish. Because you are a good tournament fisher doesn't neccessarily mean that muc
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Robert, Her size shouldn't really have anything to do with the length of the rod. For smaller people and kids it is not necessarily easier to cast a shorter fly rod. You actually have to be a better caster to be able to carry much distance with a shorter rod. I would suggest a lighter rod, a grip that fits her, and a stripper guide she can reach but not shorter just because she is small. The s
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Emory, I have seen many a Salmon or Steelhead rivers packed with anglers within feet of each other during the heavy part of the run. This isn't so much different than that. While I don't enjoy that type of fishing it is still fishing.
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I usually go with about a 45 degree angle......but I don't think it is critical. What you are trying to see is that the line travels through the guides with the curve of the blanks when you flex it. If it doesn't then you move them around. In a fishing situation you won't be concerned if the blanks is exactly at XX angle when you have a fish on. IMO it doesn't have to be that precise which is why
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Chris, I think most classes are meant as a basic rodbuilding tutorial.....which isn't all that hard to comprehend. Granted if a person persues rodbuilding they will have many many more things they could learn. If one wants to get a better education there are many places you can pay a bit more and go for a week long class. Especially among bamboo builders.
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Bruce, "Okay, then. How do you go about finding the straightest axis for 2 and 3 piece fly rod blanks or any blanks for that matter? Is there a method to it? Remember, I am a rookie. That's why I ask these kinds of questions. " Just look at it and if it looks straight to you....it is. Most of the blanks I have used are pretty true. If look down the blank and there is no apparent c
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Paul, I have seen Fenwick spiral rods...years ago...and I have seen Loomis spiral rods in a catalog. The Fenwick was a donrigger rod that was used on the great lakes and I beleive they called it "The Twist" this was late 80's early 90's .The guy that owned it loved it...but I think the general public wouldn't go for it...thought it looked weird so they went away.
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Emory, I don't know why....but it feels more like a bare blank to me with less guides. I equate this feeling somehow to the rod feeling more sensitive, less sluggish. I feel like you can tell this without even putting a reel on the rod so I don't know that it is friction related...maybe just the mass of the extra guides,thread, and epoxy????
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Bruce I think you will get many differing opinions on this...my prediction is the 3 most popular will be.. Guides on inside curve of spine Guides on outside curve of spine Don't care about spine...guides aligned to the natural curve of the blank to make the rod as straight as possible I think all are good options.....
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I think you can gain part of thet more sensitive feeling by using less guides....because you don't need as many guides. With a regular casting rod you need more guides to keep the line off the blank when it flexs. Even if it only one or 2 guides I think it is noticeable. With lighter rods you won't notice the torque trying to twist the rod over as much as with a heavy boat rod...but after a fu
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When I started Rodbuilding I took a class from put on by a local flyfishing club... We were given a list of suppliers and told we needed a blank,handle,reelseat,winding chk, guides, & thread. We were advised it was best to get your components from one supplier for your first rod so they could match them up so everything fit together. Several of the suppliers are sponsors on this site and m
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