Gap inside of grip due to dome shape of Fuji winding check
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Top of reel seat hood not touching base of inlet
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Hey guys, I’m gonna upload some pictures to show what I’m about to ask but it may be hard to tell from just the photos what I’m curious about. So I’ve had to ream the walls of the inlet on my nfc soft touch grip for the”winding check” that comes with the grip (the one that goes around the reel seat hood) to fit inside said inlet. I painstakingly did this by hand by putting my pinky inside a dr
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have not used the Soft touch fly rod grip, only > the regular CF fly rod grips, which I like a lot. > > Norm Would you suggest using a dremel to inlet the top portion of the grip?
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You don’t remove anything. The winding check > ends of the soft touch-grips are hollow. The G2 > winding check’s tenon fits into the grip. You > just replace the EVA winding check with the G2 > check. Very easy to do, just have to get the > proper ID to fit the blank. Just did two soft > to
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What method do you guys use to remove the foam from the soft touch grip to get the winding check to snap in?
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here is a picture of the fiber mesh in the butt of > my NFC MB(SJ?)736 X-ray. > > p?photo=21015&cat=506 What is it? > Norm Norm, Did you ever figure out if this is normal? Just received an nfc order and one of the blanks had the same issue. Part of the tape was kind of hanging out the e
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I’m probably a little late to this and I’m not sure if any of the get bit guys use this page-or if this is allowed on here- but I placed my first order with get bit last night and was super impressed with their selection and was notified today that the order shipped! Just wanted to give a shout-out here job well done guys! I’ll be a repeat customer.
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Norman, I was going to use a shimano 2500 reel on this rod. Would that be overkill?
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Aaron, Was any sanding needed to widen that recess in the grip to fit the hood of your seat? I’m ordering one of these grips and was curious how you opened the recess to fit your seat if it was needed.
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Michael Tarr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The specs I’ve shared are for Fujj Torzite > rings, if you use fazlite I’d use size 5 running > guides. What about using SiC rings?
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For a 6’ ultralight or light powered rod using a > small 1000 size spinning reel with light braid or > light mono I would certainly use Fuji KR guides, > or KR-like guides. I would use a KL16H, KL8H, and > KL5.5M for the reduction train. These would be > followed by one KB running guide in the
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Wow thank you guys for the information. The Fuji concept is all news to me and I haven’t used in a spinning rod in years. Some of the spots I have been fishing have been calling for a good spinning rod so I can’t wait to try this all out!
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Medium and low height. Thanks spencer. I’m a bit confused though on guide placement here. The nfc guide spacing is a bit different than the merrick tackle chart shown above. Who’s spacing should I follow in this situation? I’m assuming the nfc spacing isn’t based on those k guides so should I use those Fuji
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Thank you for that Kevin! Can you help me learn what the difference is on a spinning guide that for example says 5.5M or 5.5L?
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Sorry if this is a double post. I typed all this out just for it to not submit. Basically I only ever build fly rods and wanted to build some spinning rods. How do you guys determine how big of a spinning guide(s) you need? For example, here’s one of the blanks I’m building: For those who don’t wanna click the link, it’s a light power blank that’s 72 inches. I was thinking about using either:
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Just wanted to update everyone regarding my post the other night. Drilling out the recess after shaping fixed my problem completely! Grip came out completely concentric and the recess is perfectly centered.
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Phil, I leave the reel seat hood in the inlet when shaping it. I have not yet glued it to the reel seat.
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Hey everyone, I’ve posted a lot on this subject on this forum and i apologize in advance if I am beating a dead horse on this and if I sound like I’m whining. I am having a nightmare of a time with making my own grips all because of the cork inlet section. To elaborate, I can get a grip with no glue lines, shape perfectly and evenly with no issue, but when it comes to having even wal
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Hey everyone, I would just like to update for everyone who gave answers and anyone in the future reading this that may have the same issue as I did. I got home tonight from work and looked at the tip and granted I have guides wrapped on it, could see that i oriented them on the belly of the curve so I assembled all the pieces of the rod and started slightly changing the orientation of vario
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Ross Pearson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Even though each section was built on the > straightest axis, when assembled slight > imperfections of the concentricity in the internal > ferrules can sometimes create a "curve". If it > hasn't been finished yet, some tweaking may > straighten the appearance. Yeah I should have w
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When you found the straightest axis, did you find > it on each section prior to assembling it? Or did > you just find the straightest axis on the top > section? If the latter is the case then the bottom > section/s may not be on the straightest axis which > would obviously put the top section on
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Hey guys, I’m having a small dilemma on something I can’t find an existing thread on. I build all my rods on the straightest axis and haven’t had any problems until now. The current rod I’m building, a 9ft 7wt fly rod, i oriented in a way that the bend in the top section was belly down tip up. After wrapping all the sections and lining up all the guides, my rod is slightly curving towards the
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > P.S. > > Even though I seldom use a full length rod lathe > any more, I used bits and pieces to assemble one > for a one off rod that I was building. > > Here is the power that I used for the rod lathe: > > > p/photo/20897/title/1-2f2-hp-dc-motor-with-taig-ch > uck/ca
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Does anybody have suggestions for building my own rollers to replace the tailstock of my lathe with? I was looking at the flex coat lathe as a better alternative to making cork grips instead of using a mandrel so I’m not having to ream out my rod grips. I’m sure I could buy the rollers from flexcoat or something similar to that elsewhere, but I wasn’t sure if I could make them myself for cheap?
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How do you guys glue up seats with these window type inserts? I have a few apps ra7wl2 seats and was curious. Do I score the ends that are covered by the hood and threaded portion and only let glue contact there?
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Thanks everyone for the responses. This community makes easy work out of my struggles in this hobby!
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Hi everyone, I’m sorry if this is a redundant question, but I can’t find any threads relating to this issue without the use of power tools. I am struggling with jagged or wavy edges on my epoxy finish. Where the thread meets the blank on both sides of the wrap I am struggling to get even lines. I have seen suggestions regarding the use of high rpms when applying epoxy and alcohol soaked paper t
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