Hey guys, Here’s a photo of a rod I just finished that I had a question about. So when I first started building, I had finished my first rod and probably didn’t do my guide wraps tight enough and after I finished the rod I was wiggling around one of the guides for some reason and could hear it clicking and feel it moving slightly. Since then, I’ve made my wraps much tighter and better but now I
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Just wanted to share my completed rod here. A few of you helped respond to suggestions for grip spacing and some of my hiccups I had with this build but it’s finally done! Special thanks to norm miller for all his help with understanding the KR concept system and utilizing it on this build. This rod cast fantastic and will be in the arsenal for some of my river finesse fishing!
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Hey guys, Im in the market for a power wrapper. I’ve had my eyes set on the flexcoat power wrapper/finishing machine but saw that mudhole has the rbs gen 2 wrapper(appears to be equivalent to the flexcoat one) on sale slightly cheaper. I know both flexcoat and mudhole offer quality products so I’m sure both units are fantastic but was wondering if anyone had any insights to offer to help with
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Wonderful! That’s not far from where I live. I saw ticket sales begin at 8 am is that what time the event begins as well?
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > We're still 4 months out but many exhibitors are > already on board for the 2024 event. Below are > those that have actually purchased booth space > thus far. I expect this list to at least double if > not triple within the next 60 days or so. > > All Around Fishing > > Anglers Reso
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I’ll be purchasing the flexcoat oem power wrapper station in a few weeks. I just finished wrapping a rod but wanted to hold off on applying finish for the wrapping station so I can utilize those higher rpm’s to hopefully get my desired look (cleaner edges). What should I do about getting a dust free finish once I have the wrapper here as the rod is just sitting here, I’m seeing particles on my bl
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Thanks for the responses. I was worried that the thickness of the epoxy could make it a little crowded for hooks/drop shots. I moved it up a bit just to be safe
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Do you guys think my hook keeper is too close to this winding check wrap? I would like to keep my winding wraps this length on this rod so changing the length of the winding check isn’t an option so if it’s too close my option is to move the hook keeper up. I like the distance between the two now but I have never used a rod with this style of hook keeper before so I wasn’t sure if after I epoxie
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I like the colors of #5 and #6 from the left but am not a huge fan of the reel seats on those. They have a kind of gothic look from what I see. #6 and #7 from the right look great and that full carbon handle looks good.
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If I were to use the two above links as a rear grip and a foregrip on a build with a Fuji standard reel seat, would the seat sit nice between the two with no visible gaps? I wasn’t sure how grips without tenons would do with those standard reel seats.
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Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The main thing I have come to do about handle > length, is to have a precise measuring point from > the finished butt of the rod to a point on the > reel seat that I will always use to measure this > distance. In my case it is the rear foot anchor > point of the reel seat. You can make it
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How’s everybody doing? I posted a photo the other week asking opinions on if you guys thought my handle section on this nfc blank I’m building on was too long. After giving it some thought and testing, I determined it was indeed too long. I built the handle originally to rest into the thickest point of my forearm to aid in leveraging a fish but didn’t consider any other factor (fishing technique
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Are you sure they are the same class of carbon > used? SM vs IM or HM would be a different pattern > needed to get the same similar power and tip from > the different blanks. They are all ending with a > 62. That’s what it is. Dang it. I got the wrong blank by mistake lol the sm was what I shou
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I have an sb 602 from north fork composites that I was curious about. I was going to build it for a light bass rod throwing Ned rigs and other finesse style stuff. On their catalog if you search sb 602 I get the following two results: Pattern: 362 model:sb602 length:72 pcs:1 line weight: 6-12lbs lure weight: 3/16-1/2oz butt diameter:.425 tip:4.5 application:smallmouth bass & walleye finesse
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Michael Tarr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > From my calculations the reel should be centered @ > 12”… Michael, Are you saying the reel stem should measure at 12”? How are you getting that number? Thanks for everyone’s input
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Al, > If you like it then it is fine. > > As a general rule, for my 6 foot rods, I generally > use an 7-8 inch solid rear grip. Split grips > are fine but not my cup of tea. > > But, what works for me - may not suit you at all. > > > The reason that this forum is
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Hey everyone, Here’s a photo of my 6’ medium light spinning rod I am finishing up. This is actually my first spinning rod and I built it for finesse fishing for bass in my home river that I wade fish a lot. It may be used for throwing some small plastics inshore fishing from time to time but I don’t do too much of that honestly. Anyways, I didn’t own a spinning rod to compare to and it’s been y
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The 27X method is for estimating the choke point > for the NGC not for the KR concept. > For a 6’ rod, the KR GPS at Anglers Resource > does not do a great job. In my opinion, it puts > the the choke guide to close the butt guide and > does not use not enough guides. However, for > longer
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It's fine. The length of rod "left for running > guides" is of no importance. If you have no room > left for running guides, that's fine. If you have > 3 feet left for running guides, that's also fine. > The is no requirement for any amount of running > guides. The running guides are si
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Super confused. I’m measuring my reel spool diameter at 47 mm x 27 = 1,269mm. That converts to 49.9 inches. My rod I’m building on is 6’ in length so with those numbers I’m roughly left with 10” of rod for running guides (that’s a rough measurement. It may be an inch or two more or less.) Am I doing something wrong? I feel like that’s a small amount of space to put three running guides. Also,
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I’m more so talking about the beginning of the > thread wrap not the end where it meets the guide > feet. I always seal the tunnels > > Whether the water gets in at the tunnel end or the > other end, the effect is the same. It is my > opinion that if you want to avoid moisture > probl
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Aaron Petersen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I leave a nice straight edge about 1/16" past the > thread to make sure it is sealed. > > p/photo/21949/title/4-piece-5-23-nfc/cat/506 Nice looking build!
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think you are at risk of water entry. I had a > rod wrap turn white/cloudy when I did not fill the > tunnel ends properly. It would be clear/colored > when dry, but when exposed to rainy conditions > would turn cloudy/whiteish. I think you should > seal the thread wrap to avoid this possib
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I noticed on commercial built rods that manufacturers extended epoxy pass the start of their thread wraps so it sort of ramps down onto the blank. I like the looks of squared flat wraps so on my rods I always use the start of the thread wrap as sort of a straight edge and never go pass the thread wraps EXCEPT for where the guide feet and tunnels are. (I don’t have a high rpm turner for applying f
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Building on the same blank right now. I wouldn’t/am not using silk personally. If you’re going after a sort of translucent look I’d roll with no cp nylon. That’s just a personal preference however, I’m not a fan of silk on graphite. You can’t go wrong with either brand of guides and whenever I can get away with it i use single foot. Less wraps and I like the looks of them on lower wt rods. Do
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I used thread finish and a little something else to add some pizzaz. I’ll post photos in the coming weeks whenever I crawl through building this rod. Super happy with the results so far. Thanks all!
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I think I’ve just learned a tough lesson im afraid. I just stripped the label section off this rod im building. (If you care why check out my last post) Stripped it off just fine but had a small amount of paint residue on the blank that I used acetone to wipe off. Came clean wonderfully but I wasn’t even thinking about my Fuji winding check sitting right there. Acetone came into contact with it
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I’ve been a high build epoxy user since I started building rods and like it fairly well. For the most part, I can get a nice flat finish with it with the occasional lump that you can mainly feel when running your fingers down the finished area. These areas are always on long sections like label sections on the butt. I always attributed these lumps from just using too much epoxy. Anyways, I fig
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NFC does make really good blanks and most blanks aren’t going to be straight from any manufacturer. I’m sure if your blank is curved in such a way that it would affect performance that they will take care of you but I’m sure your blanks are fine. Have you put the blanks under a load yet? Again, all blanks have a slight curve!
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Joe Henary Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't see anywhere in this thread about the > intended application, but I would add that if > using braid with a flouro leader you may want to > step up your runner size. I have 4.5 torzites on > my go to rod and if I use 20lb yozuri leader I'm > fine. If I try to use 30lb leader it's a pain in
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