Jonathan Collins Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Would replicating spacing from say a > Duckett micro magic be sufficient .... That would work very well...
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Mark...that base will ship as a single piece. As for buying a power wrapper...you could always wrap it manually if you wanted.
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Thanks for sharing some of this research.
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david taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ...you can use a black magic > marker to recolor the ground area if you are using > a wrap where the color disparity could show > through. This is something I've done countless times... But...If you use a color preserver with a solvent...it will blead that marker back into the thread.
Forum: rodboard

David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... the lightest over all rod > may win in a bench test, but that doesn't mean > it's going to win in an on the water test. > I have to agree. The one thing a light rod has going for it is its light. FWIW....two rubber winding checks weigh 0.25 grams.
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Pawel Tymendorf Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >...If I understood the article right, there's > reel seat about 20 gr, 8 gr + 5 gr reargrip and > titanium guides so where are those 2 ounces added > to the blank ? The article never covered the reel seat hood...which I would guess is 12+ grams.
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Chad Huderle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here's a simple one I built back in 2011. No > clamping required. Place it at 10% and get the > normal CCS measurement. Slide it back and you can > get measurements anywhere along the blank . Nice > option if you are considering trimming a blank and > want to know the resulting CCS before ac
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Chris, > I’m not sure that Steve would be interested in > the Gudebrod braid; at 3cm thick (1.18in), that > would add a significant amount of bulk and weight > lol. (0.3mm / 0.012in?) Ha...Touché. 3mm width.
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Every once in a while I will use this Metallic Braid along with just regular thread... It speeds up the process a bit. Its made by Gudebrod and is about 3cm in thickness.
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David...your thinking is pretty much correct. Just cut what you need off the butt end and your good to go. Its a simple repair. If you move the reel seat back...you may find that you need to also adjust the guides. And in essense...you will have a bit longer rod (from reel seat to tip).
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Rod looks great...
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Oh man....yikes.. Good luck to you and your team on this.
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Aleks Maslov Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ed, the forum runs on 20+ year old technology that > is obsolete I may be mistaken....but I think the message board is a tweaked version of Phorum. Which is open source and still in use today.
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One thing I did notice while making the reply above with the phone app.... The bottom 1/3 of the submit button is covered by the menu bar at the bottom. and...not necessarily an issue with the phone app.... Pictures are only visible...when I got out (on the website).
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Alex...looking good so far
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NP...Search for MTN 94 Airbrushing is great for some fine details...I always run into trouble on slick surfaces (like blanks)....things tend to spider (usually). So....If Im airbrushing.....I need to do a little prep work on the blank.....then I need to seal it with something...either epoxy or a spray clear acrylic. If I use a rattlecan I just tape it off and spray....no prep...no seal.
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Brandon fennimore Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I find rattle cans to be a cheap paint not trying > to insult lol Lumping all rattle cans as cheap paint speaks volumes.
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...can also be done with just plain ol rattle can paint.
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I have to admit that I have changed from building on the spine to building on the straightest axis...tip up. Some of this reasoning revolves around a rod having more than one "effective" spine. By that I mean that the spine on a rod will orient itself differently depending on where the blank is bent. That, and (as Tom mentioned), we tend to cast on different plans. So...for ascetics
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bringing into question whether or not such long > and detailed posts ... are appropriate for this type of > forum..... David...What actually constitutes a long and detailed post? Your first post on this thread has 769 words...4,063 characters. Obviously under your preconceived threshold. (I'm just play
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Well..to quote a catchphrase from the Torch. "Flame on" Firstly in brief...I am really disappointed to see how Kent was treated on the thread. I totally blows my mind why anyone would think a text message is too long!! And to think it takes up too much space! And to think that showing pictures here in the thread is worse than having them posted on the picture board. (Psst...tha
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Matt Ruggie Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------------- > P.S. why is Lynn's last name a banned word. > Everytime ive tried to quote a post from lynn i > get the banned word message. so weird Your not the first to notice this.
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Merry Christmas, happy Hanukkah!
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Norm...thanks for the explanation on drag washers... My particular situation is that I dont lock the drag down and use a lighter lb test like 14lb. The old drag washers, on occasion, would lock up and...well no bueno.
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Your posts would be better received if they were > shorter and less detailed. If people want more > information they can contact you. Norm..,Please tell me you kidding me?
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I flip and pitch with a couple of older Shimano Citica's with upgrades: ceramic bearing, carbon drag washers and 106mm carbon handles. The rods arent anything really special... I pitch with a Loomis GL2 blem thats 6' 10" and I flip with a 7'6" Rainshadow both are Medium Heavey(ish). The triggers are also grounded off on each rod.
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Mark Brown Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi, rod repair for ML 6'6 bass rod. Break 13 > inches from the tip. Read Ralph O'Quinn on how to > fix it. I took off the guides leading to the break > and have an oversleeve of just under 2 inches > ready. He calls for an undersleeve of just 1/4 > inch. Wondering if this is the length you still
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El Bolinger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ..but between > a $250 blank and a $400 blank the differences will > be significantly less discernible to most of our > senses if at all in some cases. I recently was changing out a grip on a rod made by another local builder. This was one of those "from the bottom of the rod repairs". I g
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Michael, > Would any of you use this thread finish? > > p?photo=22036&cat=502 Yes...send it on.
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Building a Carolina-Rig Rod...though it will throw a whole lot more Rainshadow RX7 IFS904, Alconite LKW, AT reel seat Also making carbon grips Nashville, TN
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