Anyone get these and figured out the best way to cut? I plan on using a table top miter saw (12" blade), and would appreciate the specific blade I should be getting (I assume the best blade that does well with carbon blanks would do equally well here). I typically cut blanks with a Dremel and the thin wheel cutoff blade (works extremely well), but wanted to use my miter saw to get perfectl
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I got a SJ732 blank that I never built because I felt it was a little stiff in the middle section and the other extreme on the soft, extra fast tip. Biggest deal breaker (for me) was the overall weight. NFC doesn't post the weight for this particular blank so I just got one. It ended up being a little over 2 oz., a lot heavier than what i wanted my spinning rods for smallmouth to be. I'm goin
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I prefer KW’s and will do 7, 6, then all 5’s, or 5-1/2’s. Your “choke” guide is technically the level wind guide on a baitcaster, so I see no need to go any larger than a 7, especially when using a low profile reel. My preferences developed from use, not building, if that matters.
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Miracle wood seems to match the best for me, but still not perfect.
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Sensitivity is a big deal to me, and that is one of the highest priorities in my personal building. Other than starting with the highest end, typically expensive blanks, the biggest tip I could offer is to make it as light as you can. To me, less is more and I try to minimize what gets placed on the blank (between reel and tip), meaning no decorative wraps for me, no painted blanks, thread wra
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I’d be curious on the take you have on the two you have.
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Any particular reason you’re wanting a 6ft rod? Leverage is your friend in finesse applications.
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Just to clarify, the comment made to me about Loomis being “middle of the road” among fly fishing enthusiasts was made before they came out with the NRX and the Asquith. High modulus doesn’t make a fly rod special though and there are a lot of $1000+ high end fly rods out there. The NRX and The Asquith were out when I chose mine but I settled on the Scott G Series. It was about the “feel” for
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I started building on MHX blanks and I’d say they were the best bang for the buck… back THEN. Today, the Elite X’s are around $150 and no, I don’t think they stand out in that price range today. The X-rays are a much better blank at a much better price (when on sale) these days. Loomis was always considered by me as one of the top rods in Bass fishing (my personal experience through use), bu
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Lawrence west Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don’t have a problem shaping. I need a list of > what mandrel and chuck to get. Sorry, misread the post. I just use a 3/8” stainless rod I bought at Menards and cut them to different lengths. Glue cork rings on them and just put them on the lathe to shape. Never needed the lock rings for the mandrel.
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I don’t do eva so I have experience with that. On, cork, I start with a wood rasp (the kind that you can see through) to get the glue rings and basic shape of the cork. The rest is just a progression of sandpaper from 80 to 220. I’m sure people do it many different ways, but I like the final feel of cork finished in 220.
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Never heard of doing this and wouldn’t want it for anything built for myself. My own brain just can’t process any benefits, only a few negatives. Just me.
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Always, when I don’t plan on using a fore grip. A thread covering tube would be nice. Something loose that threads on the exposed thread and takes the place of a fore grip, also acting like a thread stop. Anyone put something like this out yet?
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I start with the KW7’s with all my baitcasters (I think I saw it on a Fuji guide placement site). Basically #7, #6, then runners of either all 4.5’s, 5’s, or 5.5’s. My first runner is a KB, sometimes even the next one, depending on the blank. The second guide (from the stripper) is either another KW, or a KB, again depending on the power of the blank I’m using. I’m not as accomplished rod bui
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I haven't been able to get someone to explain why > the next guide from the tip has to be that close > considering I have yet seen a blank tip that bends > much if at all in the distances being used today, > I would place my guide about 5 inches from the tip > on that blank and I bet it will s
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I throw a 5/8 oz drop shot weight + a large 5-1/2 in plastic bait (easily 3/4 oz total, if not more) on the SJ 703 X-ray. It casts a mile (in reality, about 65 yards LOL). Not sure if this qualifies its upper end lure rating. I can cast a weightless Trickworm on it too (under 1/4 oz total), but only about 25 yards.
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Matt Ruggie Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Good stuff John! I have the SB684 and find it > alittle stiffer than expected. Sounds like the > MB684 might be alittle softer action being ya like > it for TW and jerks. How do the 4 power SB and MB > xrays compare in power? Another one I like for jerkbaits/top waters (smaller baits) is the R
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Matt Ruggie Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Good stuff John! I have the SB684 and find it > alittle stiffer than expected. Sounds like the > MB684 might be alittle softer action being ya like > it for TW and jerks. How do the 4 power SB and MB > xrays compare in power? I did get an MB724 & SB724, to try and find a blank a hair stiff
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On the MB736 X-ray, I use it for up to 1/2 jigs + plastic = 3/4 oz total. My reels are good enough that I can actually cast below the 1/4oz rating (weightless Senko’s). I use the MB705’s & MB706’s similarly. The MB709 (HM) I used for big worms and big jogs, but that was one of the ones that broke that I haven’t bothered to replace. (All the others that broke were the MB705HM’s). The MB70
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I have fished with both X-rays & HM’s (including the MB705HM, MB709HM & MB706HM, and the MB736XRay, among many others). I don’t know if it’s just my luck, but I have broken over 7 HM’s on hook sets) and have not broken any X-Rays. I only get X-rays now. For what it’s worth, I use the MB736X-ray for a basic jig & worm rod.
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I couldn’t find the P703 & P704 on the NFC site. Never mind, I found it. Unfortunately, 1.75oz is too heavy for me. Thanks for the suggestion though!
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I got the SJ703 (X-Ray) as a Great Lakes drop shot rod. I thought it was a little softer than what I had hoped (no idea where they came up with the 1/4 - 3/4 lure rating LOL). It did fine though, casting 5/8 oz drop shot weights (we need this heavy of a weight fish the Detroit River /St Clair River level current) and handling 5-6 lb smallmouth just fine (both out of deep water and the current).
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Your filing looks a little rough. I’ve never had to file Fuji KT running guides (size 4, 4.5, 5, or 5.5’s).
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I have in hand a “polished” NFC SJ724 XRay and an unsanded NFC SJ724 Xray. The ridged version IS a hair stiffer than the polished version (noticeable). The first SJ703 ridged version I got I had to send back as it was significantly stiffer than the polished. Not sure which way to go next time as sometimes you’d want it a bit stiffer, and other times the opposite.
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Simple for me - I have not noticed any differences/advantages in real world.
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Something that doesn’t get talked about much - the longer you make your handle, the “shorter” you effectively make your rod (and vice versa).
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I’ve done it both ways, but more not than do. The reasoning was to protect the blank where the hook sits, especially the clip on style of hook keeper where the hook has to slide under the clip, rubbing against the blank in doing so.
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I’m no expert, but I have done several of these (my favorite). Ream cork to fit, as usual (no arbors). Slide into place. Build two tape arbors for the reel seat (these will be outside the cork, towards the front). Now, slide the cork up a few inches (stopped by the arbors) and epoxy the blank where the cork handle was. Slide the cork back down to its eventual position. Slather up the rest o
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