I use a 12” Dewalt miter saw, 80 tooth fine blade. I can’t get a clean cut trying to do it by hand. You would have to shim the seat to keep it level. Same setup also does a good job getting straight cuts on graphite tubes, inserts, and blanks. I cut all my seats, unless I’m using a foregrip.
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The oddball thing about the ECSM is that it’s fitted at the base, and not at the threaded end. The trigger end is narrower than the threaded barrel end, so, if you lather up the blank with extra epoxy thinking that the excess will fill the cavity on the threaded end, the trigger end (being narrower) will squeegee out all that excess glue not leaving enough behind to completely fill the threaded
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All the labels I have used so far, among many brands, have had a film above the actual label. So, attaching scotch tape to the label isn't actually attaching it to the finished label, the part that has the ink that could be damaged, but it attaches to the disposable part of the label. Shouldn't cause any damage to the print.
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After seeing Mark McKenna’s epoxy work, I decided to give acetone a try. It definitely helps me get the flattest, thinnest finish I have accomplished. Finish also seems clearer, but that could be because it’s thin. I have zero issues getting perfect epoxy coats on guide wraps without needing acetone, but have always struggled getting that factory flat finish on labels. I still don’t have the
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I thought inkjet on a waterslide was a great idea, but it didn't take long to find out the ink on inkjets are not very good quality, and also that printers don't print white.
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It seems that epoxy naturally turns to a matte finish when it ages and gets exposed to UV.
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I always thought that the quality of the rod starts at the blank though.
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All I have used for runners the past 10 years or so have been KT's & KB's. NONE have ever pulled out. Epoxy naturally soaks through and fills the tunnels, in my experience - no need to try and poke any through the tunnel ends. I use NCP and have never used color preservers (for this reason). I have inspected past guides I have wrapped (on repairs) and the epoxy is where it should be. I d
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Calligraphy pens are definitely the best way to get really fine writing, but there’s a long learning curve to get good at it. I found the Posca Uni pen to be really easy to write with, but it is not as fine, though finer than any other paint pen I’ve found. Another trick I found that allows for much nicer writing is to write on the clear water slide transfer film, then attach that “label” to th
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So, just my thought process… I think pushing the belly guide further down the blank would defeat the purpose of going with micro guides on a spinning rod. The KR concept is about reducing/funneling the spinning coils down to the running guides as quickly/efficiently as you can so the line can be “flattened” by the time it goes through the running guides. I don’t know why it would be advantageou
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The replacement generic motors I get on @#$%& or Amazon get hot, really hot (like you cant touch it). The motors I got from Mudhole stay cool. Both have never failed (as far as from the heat). I'm guessing my recent motor from Mudhole is on the verge of failing (oil leaking from motor spindle and grinding noise starting to get noticeable). I feel I'm lucky to get a couple of years use from a
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I’ve never had a need for locking wraps on the Fuji (they have a locking “nub” on their guide foot that effectively holds the guide in). If it’s unraveling, you4 tension just isn’t high enough. Also, you will need more threads for your pull throughs (unlike in the wider section of the blanks). I put my pull through just past that “nub” on the foot. If it’s loose, retie. You’ll get the hang o
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Have you all thought of the fact that most > recommended tools above do not match your > requirements to port for your reel seat hood's > O.D. without altering the cutting blade? > And - as said - unless you are using super hi > RPM's - the cork will shread. > Herb I’m starting to rea
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If you want to use a drill bit, I have found that the Forster bit cuts the cleanest hole (at least it does for me).
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John, the all-in-one kits I was referring to on Mudhole for about $200 gives you a finished rod with a value of at least that… so all the equipment included basically ends up being “free”. That said, I have a friend that taught a rod building class locally and he taught people using cardboard boxes and thread spool in a cup with the line going through a phone book for tension. Drying by hand wo
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If you’re talking Flor grade, yes, but I didn’t even think Mudhole offered that grade.
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If you can deal with the slow fulfillment times, North Fork Composites is the best bang for the buck, arguably best blanks available. Be prepared to do your own QC inspection before building (you should with any blank anyway). As long as you work within these expectations, you’ll be satisfied.
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Honestly, this is what I expect when I order online. This day and age, the companies that take too long to fulfill risk their own livelihood. It’s nice that there are still companies out there that do it right.
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Except, I have an All Star rod from the 90’s (they used taller guides back then), built exactly opposite of the spine, and it DOES have a twist tendency in your hands. That twist is negated the heavier the reel is, and without a reel it’s really obvious. I simply explain both theories to everybody I build for, and sometimes show them this rod to demonstrate the difference, and 100% have chosen
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I'm not concerned about building on a curved blank, as it didn't take me long to figure out blanks aren't perfectly straight (you can tell simply by watching you tip rotate on the rod dryer). It's the blanks that have multiple curves (bends in different directions), and curled tip sections that I, regretfully (because I hate to have to go through the order wait process all over again), end up ha
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Wow. I never even thought about using the reverse drill bit. Maybe that's why the crafty cutter got discontinued - there were simpler ways just under our noses!
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I believe Mudhole (I'm sure others too) has the "all-in-one" build kits that include all the tools and supplies to build plus your blank and components. I believe in the $200 range, meaning for the price of a rod, you get all the tools and get to build it your self. I thought it was a great way to start (I had to order all my stuff individually, and figure those out, when i started).
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I saw that Mudhole came out with their version, but it’s already back ordered. I use a drill press, but it’s tricky lining everything up.
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Using braid would be the equivalent of adding “power” as well. There are a lot of variables when picking blanks. My recommendation would be the X-Ray SB724 (assuming your typical shakey head, Texas rigged).
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you have access to an 852 JWR, you can do the > CCS tests yourself. They don't take an extravagant > set up to do, and as the name says, can be done > with pennies. If you're looking for IP in grams, > just multiply the number of pennies by 2.5. > > I'm curious as to what you'll be usi
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I’m just going by “feel” memory, but I didn’t think the NRX852s was as powerful as the CSS number posted (580g). Was this possibly the number for the NRX JWR casting rod? The NFC MB724 X-ray is too stiff for spinning, in my opinion, unless you are looking to do what you typically do with casting rods, made as spinning. It feels more medium heavy, than medium to me. In general, I felt the Loom
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My last SJ703 X-ray (mirror finish) came in at 1.28oz. The SJ703 C6O2 I recently got also came in at 1.28oz. (It’s unsanded). They feel exactly the same to me, in hand, unbuilt. I know Aleks responded that the SJ703 is supposed to be 1.54 (website says 1.3oz.), but all my previous ones have also come in around 1.3 oz. (Maybe he meant the regular, non X-ray SJ703?) SB724’s and SB722’s have
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I put a straight edge from the center of the reel spool through the middle of the 3 reduction guides until it hit the blank. The straight edge hit the blank exactly where the GPS program said to put the choker guide. Maybe it doesn’t make a difference (though my GPS rods casts really well), but my purpose of building is for function, not asthetics, so someone would have to prove to me changing
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That extra spacing is because that’s where the line is supposed to “turn the corner”. Yes, it looks odd, but they even go so far to say the you could optionally increase that gap even MORE for more performance. I stick to the program and my spinning rods casts farther than they ever did.
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The first tools I got (after basic tools) was a lathe (a real one) and a drill press. The drill press was for coring out cork foregrips (overkill, but I got tired of premade foregrips being out of stock, and making my own allowed me to add personal touches to it). I, personally, don’t believe in adding anything unnecessary on the blank before the reel seat (fancy thread work, excessive guide wr
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