The leg braces are attached to the upper ring frame not at the very bottom . After removing that small extended piece the guide is still super super strong , is it the recommended thing to do ? No, but it's not absolutely necessary either and can be removed with no ill effects for people who feel the need to do so. The more downward pressure the tip top receives the more that unattached piece p
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As long as a rod is of the appropriate power which means it's rated to throw the weight range you intend to throw it's suitable but that's a given. If you throw one ounce jig's but have a rod rated for 5- 8 ounces of course it's not going to work . When anglers talk about casting they ALWAYS refer to whether or not the rods are fast action or much more moderate action nobody ever brings up the
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Gabriele , you don't need to restate your question , I think you're asking how to wrap that type of tip top if I'm incorrect please say so. Mark I'm not confused , when I said some cut that piece off metal off I didn't mean it's what everybody does or it's preferable I meant that it's not uncommon for builders especially newbies who have trouble wrapping that type of top to end up snipping t
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Approach it the same way as you would a single foot guide . Start the wrap very close to the end of the protruding metal piece and end it where the metal piece meets the main section of the tip top . They key is figuring out a way to support that part of the end of the blank which many have come up with their own solutions . Some end up snipping that piece of metal off but most wrap it. T
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Sounds like fun , always good to open up a package and be exceptionally pleased with what you see . Sounds like it will work out great , I think sticking with the 16 mm butt guide was a right choice . I also think you will have an extremely difficult time trying to pick up subtle differences when you start playing around with different layouts as you mentioned you can't wait to do in your above
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Peter seems to just want to know if certain Batson blanks are similar to each other before purchasing one he never mentioned that he's new to baitcasting or spinning . Peter said he thinks he would prefer the X fast action choice for casting that's when Michael questioned his preference and said that he thinks faster rods are more difficult to cast but Peter never mentioned that he's a newbie to
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" I want the best performance I can get from here on out" My vision is terrible these days but I would never use larger guides than absolutely necessary when building for all out performance regardless of how bad my vision was . When I'm out fishing and need to retie after a breakoff or re rig something I find it a complete nightmare but I'm certainly not going to use termin
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If you're teaching somebody just starting out to cast I would definitely not start them out with an X fast rod but they aren't hard to figure out in case that's all you had at the time. Just a simple flick of the wrist with a fast action rod with a flexible tip will send small jigs etc.. a mile . I can't stand fishing moderate rods that bend much further into the blank than faster rods do but
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If you don't want to go with glow thread or glow tape but want to still be alerted to a strike if you're away from your rod I would go with a device that emits a sound over doing something to the tip top of the rod . Constantly staring at the tip of your rod is OK for some but something that emits a sound signal will allow you to enjoy the scenery without needing to always turn around to stare a
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Corrosion is one of the absolute last things I worry about with guide frames . I have never had a guide frame of 304 stainless (Fuji) corrode on me or the slightly softer but more corrosion resistant 316 (S-6) stainless (Alps) corrode on me in my entire lifetime . As long as you clean and rinse your rods after use in saltwater it's a complete non issue . I know some others have experienced co
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Mark can you point out to me where I mentioned the word 'Strength' ? I can't seem to find it .
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After reading Toms response I thought maybe I'm mistaken about mixing until the blue disappears , I got the info from the below post a while back . Karen from Bingham says both are crystal clear but mix until the blue disappears. I give up Generation 4, the newest rod finish to come out on the market in years. XAR means Extreme Air Release. This new rod finish being developed will be th
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That makes perfect sense , I don't have any machinery like that but as they say use the right tool for the job and I tend to always be missing that 'Right' tool for some reason.
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The blue tint is just an aid to let builders know to keep mixing until it disappears , that's it's sole purpose to make sure the hardener and resin is mixed thoroughly enough . I used Generation IV on two separate surf rod builds in the color Alpine White by CTS . Stunning clarity
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This is a great reminder about the misconceptions still out there courtesy of Gary Loomis : Ever since the introduction of the first graphite rod by Fenwick in 1974, myths about this mysterious material have been growing and circulating the globe like wildfire. How many times have you been told that the difference between IM6, IM7 and IM8 is the difference in quality standard, or that the
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Looks like the wood handle ends at the reel seat to me . Jason probably loves the way that grip feels and made it to enhance his fishing success and enjoyment . Boring a perfectly straight hole from the top of the handle to the bottom is not easy , I have no idea how far the blank goes into that wood handle .
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Anyone not familiar with the CTS AIR blanks you can see reviews below:
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I always test if it's time to remove the rod by using those bamboo shish kabob sticks to push the left over epoxy to one side of the plastic mixing cup and if I see that it levels out I keep the rod slowly spinning on the dryer until it cures more. Last thing I need is to take it off too early and notice sagging even if it's just a little bit .
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I have tried to make inshore rods in the 7'6" length work for me but they just don't work well for what I do . I need stellar casting performance for the area's I fish that's why I much prefer inshore rods in the 8 foot length . They are still super easy to handle and control and are capable of casting long distances. I find them to be exceptionally lightweight as well . I have chosen Rod
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I don't do it for two reasons , the first is I never had any issues with micros ever coming loose and the second is if a running guide that small is subjected to the force that causes it to break free I would prefer for it to break free instead of being twisted and stuck in place out toward the tip of the rod blank.
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I personally feel the benefits of being listed as a sponsor far far outweigh any negativity a business may receive from having their name listed on the forum . I can't even tell you how many times when I was looking into making a purchase of rod building supplies or blanks the first thing I would always do is scan slowly through all the businesses listed on the left hand side of this forums main
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I gave up on the Threadmaster Lite because the only real difference I noticed between the regular Threadmaster and Lite is the Lite takes much longer to cure. Viscosity didn't seem all that different but that's just my experience with it.
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I would love to crank the temp up to 90F if possible to get my finished rods to cure faster but I can barely tolerate being in a room north of 70 degrees for very long. I'm an air conditioner lover and live in a single floor dwelling so there's no escaping to a cooler temp for me. If I built a bunch of rods year in year out I would have a dry box for sure but I only build a select few througho
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I have learned to not always fear the worst when something confronts you , think about other reasons why you may not see NFC on the sponsor list like just forgetting to renew for instance . They do seem to always be very very busy and not always responding in a timely fashion. Maybe they did decide to stop being a sponsor but I'm hoping it's an oversight because Aleks did say a while back that
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Check out the below links they should prove very helpful. NGC is another way for laying out spinning setups however the above two are the latest preferred way when using lighter braids .
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With spinning in particular knowing what type of fishing , reel and line type the angler plans on using is # 1 . Some will throw out sizes and guide types they have used over the years but spinning setup's can be made so much more efficient if you match the sizes of guides & ring diameters ,heights of guides etc.. to what reel and line you plan on using . I'll give you an example , over
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I picked up a long section of that thin DW PVC pipe that Roger mentioned at Lowes a few weeks ago to ship a rod to somebody in Virginia and it cost me under $15.00 . The price was over $17.00 30 days ago.
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The KL16H has the height to match up well with the majority of small spinners and that's probably part of the reason Fuji doesn't even offer a smaller ring sized guide that's shorter in height than the 16H for a butt guide option in their KR guide train software. The 12H is approx 10 MM shorter in height than the 16H. That's my guess . I just think the advantages to going to a 12H would be
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I have heard Stripper , Collector and Butt guide over the years . I was looking for that pic with the minima guides right on top of each other but I can't seem to locate it now . I was also looking for a few fly rod builds using the Microwave setup but there seems to be no reviews whatsoever about how they perform on fly rods. In the end line type and diameter has the biggest impact on casting
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Never had a problem either and I also go crazy with the burnishing .
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