Forgot to answer your last question , in my experience regular shrink is very tough and durable and shouldn't need replacing for many years if at all . Winn Grips has overwraps which are clearly grippier than regular shrink but those aren't nearly as durable when subjected to hard usage but if you want grippy that's the way to go .
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I have extensive experience with shrink wrap handles and you can definitely use it on top of Hypalon but it won't feel the same as just having Hypalon . Many people use shrink on top of existing grips of all kinds but I never liked doing that I use shrink directly over the butt with nothing underneath except maybe parachute cord or similar to produce a very pronounced X grip . I have used Mudhol
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A few others opinions from those that have left us or don't post anymore for whatever reason but it's not all that different than what the current opinions are for the most part . You have fans of weighting the butt and non fans which is typical of most things in life.
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Just thought some may be interested in reading a thread from over a decade ago on rod balancing .
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Even though I don't fly fish I love reading those comparison shootout's myself. Most of those comparisons don't include the CTS models which is indeed a bummer . The most popular seems to be held by "Yellowstone Angler" and I believe one of the guys names is George . If I remember correctly I believe George is the one who left a comment on the CTS official website commenting about the
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Is this a serious question ? OF COURSE we want to see it !!!
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Sun exposure takes it toll on everything eventually , there's nothing that you can apply that will prevent the effects of prolonged UV exposure . That being said I have rods that are decades old that look fantastic but I treat them like the high end piece of technology that they are . As Tom said, if you use regular nylon thread which most prefer for it's brighter more brilliant colors than you
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Chris, I went to the BPS website and saw some close up images of the Silver you're talking about . Unfortunately I can't offer a good alternative but I'm sure somebody on this forum who is familiar with a wide spectrum of colors would be able to. BPS JM Carbonlite 2.0
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No doubt that CP tightens up and solidifies the thread even without epoxy applied but one of the most appealing benefits of CP to me is what Michael noted which is the ease of removing guides if you decided to do so . I never used CP on my early builds because I always used 'No CP' thread but after a while I decided to wrap with just nylon & Fuji's Ultra poly thread which CP was recommended
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Sounds like a real winner to me . I know how much you raved about the X Ray blanks a few months back so for the new Eternity to be on that same level is a remarkable feat by the Batson team . Russ , I truly enjoy your posts and sense of humor, stop referring to yourself as an idiot you're the furthest thing from an idiot as they come . Happy 4th to everybody .
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Cichlid's are popular aquarium fishes. Russ , I don't think you should be concerned with the weight of the build too much you can lean the rod right up against the aquarium if you start to fatigue. On another note I'm staying away from the CCS stuff until I put in the time to understand it better . To the OP David, please let us know how much you like the rod after you fish it and what
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I should have been more clear I was interested in the speed aspects of before and after the build and if it can be measured. I now see that it's not possible . CCS is only useful for bare blank comparisons .
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Bummer that a CCS was not done on the bare blank and then done again after the build , that would be the most telling. Amazing you got the new Eternity blank so fast and finished a build already . Hope you enjoy it . I would of loved to try one if it came in the 8 foot length but no such luck.
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These completely absurd threads will continue as long as people keep trying to answer these completely absurd questions . Phil loves asking questions that he already knows the answers to , he's an extremely knowledgeable lifelong angler who finds it extremely entertaining asking asinine questions. He loves to play around but make no mistake when he chimes in on topics that are truly technical a
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Things are much much more simple then some of the responses make it sound . Stick a heat source under the metal tube for 3 to 4 seconds as Tom said, the tip top should slide right off . If you find the tip top too hot to touch put a glove on , any type will work. Tip tops should not require prolonged heat , 3 to 4 seconds tops as stated . If you don't like gloves take a pair of small needle n
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Ha ha ha ha ha I love it and lets not forget people , Russ being the responsible and stand up individual he is was simply mowing the lawn one day , nobody had to ask or threaten him to mow the lawn he just knew it was the right thing to do . Well the next thing you know Russ is sprawled out laying on his lawn with automobile tire marks covering his body . Despite Russ being on the verge of deat
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Didn't you read what the OP said ? "We are getting off on a tangent here BUT I LOVE IT " Russ likes the garden path
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A reel under 6 ounces OMG . I can't do that I would be constantly thinking I left my reel at home even though it was attached to the rod.
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Thomas Kaufmann Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Chris I am referring to your reference to 5 minute > epoxies that I had a failure with..... the failure > was with hot melt. “Well that makes it pretty > easy to figure out , it's either Flex Coat 5 > minute epoxy, Devcon 5 minute epoxy, ProGlue 5 > minute epoxy, ProPaste fast set epoxy or &
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Phil it's very easy to find out those answers . What is your old reel and what are it's specs , let me know what type and pound test line you used on it . Then reveal what reel you want to buy including the model # and whether you will be using the same line type and strength . I'll tell you immediately if it will cast better or not .
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I have been using regular Gen IV and I get extremely thin coats out of it so the Lite should even be easier to accomplish that task . Having said that the Gen IV light is not as light as other so called Lite epoxy's as many have said the viscosity doesn't seem all that different from the regular .
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Well of course some reels cast better than others , good luck finding somebody who doesn't agree with that . I would never spend more on a Vanford over a Stradic FL , I know how Shimano works and how they approach marketing and the differences in features are nowhere near worth the extra cost to me . Vanfords retail for approx $ 30.00 more than the Stradic FL series . Many retailers are sell
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Line size and type is what determines how well the microwaves work and the reel comes second . You can use a considerably larger reel than a 3000 size and if you keep the braid light enough they will still cast fantastic.
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Fantastic , we could use more people that really understand the KR concept regarding surf rods because every other surf rod building forum I have looked at over the years seem to have people who always recommend layouts like 25,20,16,12,10, etc.. or 40,30,25,20,16,12,10 ,7 . One of the biggest reasons I decided to join this forum was viewing recommendations to common questions on KR concept bu
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Ha ha ha ha ha , I missed that . Yeah , so now that's the new record now a size 8 . Soon we will be at a 4.5 running guide as the butt guide.
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Just remembered what I did on a bare graphite blank that I was convinced had a crack in it . I found it impossible to tell if my blank had a crack in it or not and since it was a bare graphite non painted blank I took a small piece of extremely fine sand paper (The size that the manufacturer uses to polish the blank) and just lightly rubbed on top of the tiny blemish to see if it was just a surf
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Forgot about a stress test , that's a very good idea and the first thing you should do . If it were me and I knew it was likely a crack I would just order a replacement section for peace of mind since replacement sections are offered by many manufacturers of 4 piece rods.
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Mo Yang Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Quick note. I got a bunch of pretty high end > Japanese UL rods and cast 2 lbs fluoro and a size > 1000 reel. Some of them even had a size 12 first > (butt) guide. (Fuji Torzites) I found that those > with distance from spool to 1st guide of about 23 > inches actually had the longest casting distanc
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On another note very happy you joined Brandon , we could use another hardcore surf fisherman on here.
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The KW 30 to a 20 is not that far apart Brandon , a 30 to a 16 very well be too far apart but not a KW 30 to a KW 20 . I also have bought the whole array of guides that's why I know a 30 to 20 is ideal in most circumstances especially on surf outfits . Jim Ising knows very well that a 30 to 20 on surf outfits are pretty common and a 25 is definitely not needed . You will find a 25 to 12 is
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