"In reality, I'm slitting hairs and no one seems to notice my tiny mistakes, but I do and it makes me strive for perfection" I'm sure they noticed but didn't say anything . I sold a rod that I was a little worried about due to a wrap showing a tiny gap in the thread a few years back , It was extremely minor and you would have to really look hard . I bet they noticed but thought it
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I can never find the tops I use for my surf rods like the T-MNTT 6-F 2.6 or 2.8 so I always order from oversea's vendors . If you can't locate any sizes that will work from the vendors on the left side of the page you won't have any trouble finding exactly what you want from oversea's outfits.
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"Originally, it was destined to be a high-end rod, worth over $100 bucks when completed" A scratching head emoji .
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Fuji's Ultra Poly is one of my favorites and I've used the regular Ultra Poly and the no CP version and both are superb . The regular Ultra Poly will need CP just like regular nylon thread need CP to keep the thread as close to how they look coming off the spool . As expected the no CP Ultra Poly doesn't need CP it looks great as is but the regular Ultra Poly does have a more noticeable sheen
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$100.00 - $125.00 .
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Depends which model you're talking about , I would look at the Vapor Trail as being most like a GSB1201L. CTS is the only company I know that will build a rod to your exact specs if what they already offer doesn't fit the bill . If you explained to them that you're looking for a 10' Surf blank that is slightly lower in power with a slightly softer/faster tip than a GSB1201L they can build you
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I was going to recommend Rod Geeks until I read that you want something that's SLIGHTLY less power and having a tip that is softer than a GSB1201L. I don't think even the medium moderate surf blanks will fulfill what you're looking for . The rod geeks SRF106MHMF2 is an all time favorite of mine as is the SRF80MMF 3/4- 3 oz for inshore salt water fishing . I picked both up at the Rod Buil
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Only time I got fuzzies is after dressing a guide foot, my vision isn't nearly as sharp as it used to be and I mistakenly left the sides and the end of the foot with sharp edges although it didn't feel that way at the time . It caused the thread to abrade . I removed the thread and guide and polished the foot which apparently did the trick because I haven't had any problems since.
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That's a good thing, nothing wrong with that at all . If I was starting out and had interest in many different manufacturers blanks I might become more interested in the CCS information but that's not the case as I only build a very select few for myself which are 100% surf rods . If I was into freshwater fishing which I was a long long time ago or fly rod building I would surely be more inter
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I myself have found all the terms used to describe power and action very accurate especially when dealing with only a select few manufacturers . I can tell right away if a blank is what I consider medium heavy, heavy , moderate etc... just by picking it up and getting a feel for it and where most of it's power is concentrated . I don't need to cast or fish it beforehand and I don't need to flex
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These are the terms that I'm very comfortable with . Extra Fast - Fast - Moderate Fast - Moderate - Slow Power ratings - X Heavy- Heavy - Medium Heavy - Medium - Medium Light - Light - Ultra Light . I don't like things changed around , Supermarkets like to do that to me , just when I memorized where everything I prefer is located they change it up and I have to start over. Th
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CTS will build a surf rod to your exact specs if you really know what you want . That's what I did , I requested a surf rod that offered higher performance than the Vapor Trail & S7 models and I specified the MSI rating , length , butt diameter , overall weight , butt, middle and top characteristics, tip diameter and construction meaning you have a wide range of choices from glass to 33 M
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I know 'Get Bit ' has had it from the beginning and now 'Mudhole' just started carrying it .
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Painting a blank with epoxy slows the rod's > action. Is there any difference in > weight/thickness between Gen 4 and previous Gens? Words like 'Paint' a rod with epoxy to this very day still confuses some people . We still see posts by people that think rod building thread epoxy is something that
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That's a very fair argument , didn't even think of it that way.
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I used to use regular Threadmaster but I have been using the Gen 4 for the last couple builds . The regular Threadmaster doesn't have nearly as long a working time as Gen 4 does and the regular Threadmaster dries considerably faster than Gen 4 does . Both produce stunning and crystal clear results At this point I think I will go back to regular Threadmaster because of it's quicker set up t
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" It seems to me that St. Croix found it impossible to compete with other rod companies for the fly rod segment, particularly in the mid-price category. I would suspect their American production costs were part of the problem" Actually St.Croix was very competitive in years past with their mid priced fly rods. What they failed at was being able to come up with a top of the line fly
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I got to see a early release 2022 St. Croix catalog and it appears the 'Imperial fly rod' which doesn't utilize SC V material is the only model they now offer which surprised me. I'm a huge St. Croix fan but despite that fact when you claim to make " The best rods on earth" but have failed to produce a top of the line fly rod that's competitive with other manufactures best fly rods tha
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" A fellow rod builder came up to me and said "check this out" I look up and he flexes this purple/blue blank and it snaps with with very little effort. He proceeds to grab another one off the rack and does the same thing and it snaps. He grabs another one and bang it snaps, he grabs another and the store clerk who was hearing the sound of breaking blanks, finally comes over and st
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If you're breaking budget friendly CRB blanks which can take a lot more punishment than many others then my guess is you need a refreshment course in rod handling and usage tips . The below should help : Gary Loomis talks about rod breakage Hey guys, With all this talk of some of the newer rods getting bad raps for breaking, I looked around and found a very interesting article b
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One thing that you should know is that it's very very difficult to pick out nuances in guide train performance when using light braid and the reason is super light braid will work very very well even with poorly laid out reduction train guides . It is for this reason that I like to spool up with line a little heavier than what I plan on using to tweak the guide train for the truly best possible
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I understand Leonard's thinking perfectly . The first build I started with was also a high end blank and the reason I started with a high end blank was because I had zero interest in building anything else to practice on It was top of the line or nothing at all . What will become apparent is that the finished rod will be perfectly functional but it will also be far from a clean & mistake fr
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One question that's never been answered . Since you use less overall wraps with D thread compared to A thread and more wraps with A thread because it's thinner , in the end what's lighter weight or is it a wash.
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When I first started rod building I only used colorfast thread with no CP and it worked perfectly fine . After a while I kept hearing how non colorfast thread gave off a much more brilliant sheen and look compared to colorfast thread which many said looks flat and ugly by comparison . Of course one of the steps that's needed is to use CP on non colorfast thread because CP locks in that brilli
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Has everyone read Emory Harry's work? I have in great length and you're right he's a 'Must' read when it comes to this subject . Tons of info in the archives on this topic. Imo the below is correct : The higher the resonant frequency the more sensitive a blank/rod is . Lighter and stiffer produce
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Good on you David , well done and I appreciate your honesty , I can tell just by your writings that you're a guy with integrity with a true passion for fishing.
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It is a serious mistake to assume everyone else > uses the same fishing reels, rods and techniques > that you do: casting reel rods, closed face > spinning reel rods. snatching rods, open-face > spinning reel rods, trolling rods, down rigger > rods, drop-shot rods, kite rods, worming rods, >
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The old Daiwa SS tournament reels were excellent but they were never built with braided lines in mind and if going with light braid they would be far from my first choice . I don't like the Pflueger reels for anything saltwater related so don't know if you have plans to fish the salt . The older SS tournament reels were extremely popular for saltwater usage . I as you do also build rods specifi
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If it was me I wouldn't paint it at all , I would build it after I sanded it . Lots of people like plain graphite with no coatings applied for a multitude of reasons including myself . If you want a specific color many people like to use high gloss automotive paints while others prefer a matte look , both are available in spray paint form . As mentioned previously Perma Gloss is one of the mo
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Wow, never thought people would take someone else's opinion so personal by even calling out the persons name repeatedly . It's all opinions guys , yours is an opinion as are everybody else's . I don't think anybody cares how other people build or fish a rod . If others don't side with your experiences and beliefs who cares.
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