David, I am definitely not advocating against a good hard hookset. Rather sometimes even with a fence swinger you end up missing due to the hook pulling out or plastic in the way. When I started twisting out EWG and rigging my t-rig on offset worm hooks or flipping hooks as described the misses went way down. On a t-rig I set the hook between fence swing and snappy personally. By no means is i
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That is a great idea to keep perfect uniformity and also vary the scaling design to your desire.
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If it is a worm tied on t-rigged or carolina try hooking the the point through the worm offset from the middle. It remains weedless, is still straight when under water, and the hook goes through less plastic and will increase hook ups. With bigger baits that use EWG like beaver, creature, craws etc... I always bend my EWG off center of the shank. just a bit is all you need. Not as much as say a c
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As Kent points out in his shotgun reference, the shotgun was first designed to perform. While the aesthetics team was disconnected from that, I guarantee the engineering team reviewed the effects of the aesthetic changes and would not allow changes to effect function and reliability. Using the same analogy, in the shooting world there are very few individuals that perform at a high enough level t
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Derick, There is two types of bass fishing, competitive and fun. The competitive guys use much higher power rods to horse fish in fast. Fun fishing doesn't demand that style of angling though that style is fun from time to time. I did not grow up on bass. I grew up fishing rainbow trout, steelhead, and salmon in PNW. So bass fun to me is using almost as light of a rod as I can get away with. I
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Kent, That looks like the perfect rod to throw sexy shad patterns. Ha.
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I moved from the rubber to the wire chuck and found it to be an improvement. The wire sprung chuck holds rods just fine. The best advantage to it is that it is easier to get the rod in the chuck evenly and resetting your rod in the wire chuck is much easier than in the rubber chuck. IMO it is worth it.
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Russell, I got mine from there for just under that due to a sale being on at the time. Roger, I agree that starting torque without mechanical assistance is lacking in brushless in a similar size currently in public market. Especially in a scenario like this where a large converter isn't used. I think oversizing the motor may help but currently I do not know if an approriate sized brushle
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the info. I was just contemplating the > same purchase. Anything you suggest I change/add > to the stock machine? I will order with the > upgraded chuck. I had heard the spring loaded > rests are a problem. I’m guessing that there > were fine for you. Russell, I bought the pa
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Now you have my interest. What kind of rod works > best with a quick-fire reel? Fast action, I > imagine, but what kind of guides and guide wraps > work best to bring out the quickness in the reel? Phil, That is a great idea to use the quick fire. This way you aren't pinching the line at high ang
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Good morning all, I received my Alps wrapper kit and installed it into my workspace last week. I finally found some time to work with it and in short, I am impressed. I have been hand wrapping using the equipment provided with the turnkey startup kit from Mudhole. That was eventually upgraded to include the 4-spool latest thread tensioner. I have done several rods since my first rod in 2017. I
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I am in process on a MHX SWB967 that will be used for Umbrellas and big swimbaits. Going to run 20-25# fluorocarbon. I am running a low ratio low profile reel. I am going to try a KW8 , KB6 , then KT5 runners. All alconite. I want to experiment with slightly smaller guides since it is a rod for myself and science. If they need upsized after testing then I get more practice on the power wrapper an
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My Grandfather has so many vintage Lamiglas in his shop. Some he will still use on occasion. Mostly Salmon trolling and jigging blanks that were used on the Hood Canal. Every time I lay eyes on those vintage brown/honey rods it takes me back to when I was a kid learning to fish with Grandpa. Many of his stock have minor things that are easy repairs. I live too far away now to just grab them and r
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I had a rough day at work the other day and started fantasizing about business models to execute to rod build full time. It was extremely limited when I started looking at blanks made in USA for a line. Of course a lot of that means the raw materials in the pre-preg are likely not from USA either. So I was further limited. I don't mind the Japanese made stuff as long as it is actually manufacture
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Ben, One can never have too many reels, just not enough rods. I like to buy reels and then pitch to the wife that I need to build another personal rod to put the reel to use. I bought a Low gear ratio reel for throwing Huds and A-rigs last week. This week I received the swimbait blank and components because the reel cant just collect dust right? Would be a waste to have a reel with no purpose.
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As a kid when I bow and arrow cast in small overgrown creeks I would bow and arrow with a fly rod for rainbow trout. I hardly ever tried to peel off too much line because the casts were rarely more than 10 feet. I moved to the South and have not fly fished much since. Here I found I could bow and arrow cast Rooster tails, spin flys, and crappie jigs under lake docks to get to the fish on the ins
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I have only performed dock shooting for crappie and bass with a spinnin rod. I always flipped bale and pulled back then let it rip. Am I doing it wrong?
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Have you tried bow fishing? I kid. Imagine if you will all three rods are identical all the way down to the line. Also the casting rod is spiral wrapped. The only difference would be the reels. The blank does not know how it is built. It maintains the same properties. The resistance in the reels is where the difference will be. A spinning bale is static and line just falls off of it. The bait
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You can trim the fibers to the diameter or a bit shy of the diameter of the component it will butt up against. In this case the seat and a winding check. Sometimes reaming through the fiber can make it catch a fray. If you carefully trim it you can also glue the ends back down if needed prior to final install to keep the strand tight.
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Ernie, I, much like you, had to learn a few new tricks during my SJ703 build. My struggle was that I was overthinking everything. I am pretty sure my post history on this forum summarizes my overthinking abilities. That said there was two major takeaways that will forever impact my rod building. 1. Like all manufacturer supplied guide spacing the NGC and KR calculators are just good starti
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Ernie, I just built an SJ703 a few weeks ago using the Fuji NGC by utilizing the calculator provided by Anglers Resource. If you have specific questions I would love to help you best I can and pay it forward. 2. "About the second part of my inquiry....diagnosing trouble spots (if they exist) when testing your work. What things are you looking for, and how are you tweaking the set up to
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I always make a few passes with the reamer and clean the scuffed portion. Doing this gives the glue more surface to adhere to and also works in a similar fashion to stippling. It is easier to grip something that is abrasive vs something that is smooth. Just like when reaming anything, make sure the item you reamed is debris free prior to seating.
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Agree 100%. The worst part is now that the great people here have opened my eyes to the CCS it is even worse. Now not only does the info contradict itself but it also contradicts the arbitrary coding as well. I was hoping the CCS database linked on the sidebar would be more expansive. I may have to sign up to login to see more than the fly rods but I can't figure out how to sign up.
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Brian, I had a build similar to yours with a weave in between split Winn. At the time I was not aware of the tape method. My solution was to put a coat of finish on my weave and let it cure. Then I placed my grips as I usually do by reaming until they stop about 1" shy of the final placement when being slid down from the tip. On the butt I open it to be snug over the rod but. I used paste
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My plan is to use straight fluorocarbon in the 8lb range. I rechecked "bullseye" with table edge and laser then test cast with 12lb fluoro. After review of a few casts I moved the last reducing guide out 0.5" to help turn the corner. Tested again and it looked great on the slomo videos. Though I did learn that I need to get some really visible line because watching pure fluoro at 6
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Forgot to mention the rod is the NFC SJ 703.
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Norm- I am using KR and it is a 7' rod. Michael- My first guide is 20" from spool axle tip. from there the GPS had spacing after as 7.84" behind stripper, 5.8" second to third, 6.94" third to choke. What I have taped on is 7" behind stripper, 5.25" second to third and 6.5" third to choke.
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Tom, Excellent point. I am over thinking as I often tend to do. I will cast it this afternoon and report back. Thank you, Aaron Petersen
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Is the spacing of the reduction guide train a factor as long as the reducing train is concentric? I used the calculator for guide spacing but it did not have a calculation option for a 250 size reel. I rounded up and placed as calculated and then finessed them into place by concentric alignment. However once I did that the spacing deviated by -1.75" throughout the reducing train with the
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I have always pre-installed the insert to the seat. Take the hood off and tape the threads. If you have any run off you can remove it with a toothpick or q-tip. Use denatured alcohol and cloth/q-tip to remove excess epoxy from the openings in the seat. If any gets inside the insert you can ream it down smooth. Then install the same as a normal casting seat.
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