Might try carbon insert next time. They fit great and look nice too.
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Very nice!
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Mono for life! I use it on all of my inshore casting reels. I use braid for offshore. Since I started building spinning rods I went to braid as it allows for a much smaller butt guide.
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Thats what I use, Roger. Cheap B&D electric 110v drill, a vise attached to my work bench, and a CRB metal rod stand to hold the end of the mandrel. The small CRB reaming file with the metal end works like a charm for a mandrel. I use an old one with the sand paper removed. You can also build one with old rod pieces telescoping them into each other to form a solid FRP or carbon mandrel. Ju
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You don't need it. Cut it off flush.
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...and hold your breath. Brace your paint hand on the rod stand or the blank.
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Is it painted?
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Built this redfish rod on a CB 704-1 NFC blank. Thats a "belt" of scales from a 16" red dried around a blank mandrel and then glued to the rod blank. I left a live edge. The belt covers about 3/4 of the rod diameter. The "belly" side has an application of gold leaf. The leaf was too smooth for my liking so I applied about 25 small crinkled flakes on top of t
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Next Y in the rod down the rabbit hole.
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I use the 703-1 delta for that app. If you want one for the yak, build it with a 7" handle. It helps while fighting and landing fish from a yak especially if you've got the "dad bod" thing going on.
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Its mostly a crapshoot for the tip. I try to stock up on tips but sometimes I need to order the size that fits. No biggie.
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There are no dumb questions. I'm living proof of that. LOL!
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John DeMartini Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I wrap guides by hand and use my DIY power wrapper > to turn grips and rejuvenate grips. I wouldn't have it any other way. My "lathe" is a B&D plug in drill, an old FRP reamer with the paper removed, a vice, and a metal CRB rod building stand with a hole drilled at the correct height. LOL!!
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Thanks, guys. Sounds like it is doable. I will try it next week and post results good or bad.
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- Sure I could, but then I would be > hanging up all the time, losing baits, and having > tie on more leaders. ..........and getting way more fewer bites.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I assume you mean "larger butt guide?" The choke > would the first of the running guides, which are > the smallest guides on the rod. > Thanks, Tom. After 2 years, the learning curve is finally starting to flatten a little bit.
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Learned this one the hard way. Align the blank with the reel seat, tip up. No issues.
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Recently acquired about 20 sheets of 22k gold leaf. I am going to use it on some of my builds. Anyone ever use this product on a rod?
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Check this out! I built a 7' ML NFC delta spinning rod for my sisters birthday present. Custom cork handle, NFC MB 703-1 Delta blank, Alps titanium/gold guides, metallic purple/green/gold thread work, a Magazine St. gold decal, and a Mardi Gras jesters mask decal. She caught this 25# red on it in a canal just 300 yds from the camp. 1/4 oz jighead with a 3" blue moon/ chart tail grub. 10#
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I also fish for speckled trout with 1/4 oz jigs > and exclusively use braid with a mono or > fluorocarbon leader with no problems. At my place in Fourchon the school specks move into the dead end canals in the complex during the fall/winter months. One of my neighbors is Gary Yamamoto. We've fished
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It isn't that I don't use braid for some applications. I fish mostly speckled trout with a 7' ML mod or fast. These fish have a very tender mouth and lips and easily pull off the hook. The stretch of the mono in combo with the ML rod solves this problem mostly. The fluoro works great on a baitcaster, even for these tender mouths. Would a larger choke guide help? I am currently using a 20 or
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When using fluoro on a spinner used for casting less than 1/4 oz lures I've noticed that it does not cast as well as mono. Is there a certain guide train that would help alleviate the problem? I prefer 10# or 12# mono for this application but the fluoro is much tougher and has less stretch which makes it a better choice in some situations.
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Thats some real McGeyver stuff. Love it.
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I agree with everything you posted, Kent. That being said I'm still going to buy, then replace those $100 casting reels. BTW, good to see you are back and posting valuable info on this board.
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I won't spend over > $100 on a reel these days. The higher priced ones > just are not any better and usually the same as > the $100 model with a bit more bling. Just pick > out the one you like best and stick with it. I am a believer in this also. I fish salt water mostly and nothing really h
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I disagree. The problem is not the format. It is something else.
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After testing on an old blank section, I determined that was my problem also. Tom and Chris were right, the mixed epoxy does not gas off any molecules. I mixed a test batch using the recommended procedure by John Cates and placed it on an analytical scale to cure. The mixture weighed 2.05 grams after mixing. The next day it still weighed 2.05 grams.
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I guess an inexperienced fisherman could benefit from a species specific label. Pretty sure that most of the guys on this board can pick up a rod off of the rack and determine what species it would be best for.
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Stan,that seems to be the most popular way to affix the reel to an ice rod.
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Chris Catignani Wrote: > > Mick...The international unit of measurement for > rod sensitivity is called a "bite". Awesome! LOL!
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