roger wilson Wrote: > i.e. theory and pictures are fine. But, what does > the person experience when using the two different > rods? > Thanks Roger! And yes, I'll try and keep it to a few words this time. Simply put it all goes back to the whole reasons why we build spiral wrapped rods in the first place. The first one is obvious to eliminate torquing of blank. But t
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just to clarify, the "Simple Spiral" has only been > around for about 15 years. > lol! Tom, that one idea may be only 15 years old, but to me, I lump all of the various 'old-method' spiral wrap ideas into the category of "simple spiral wraps."
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I left simple spiral wrapping behind 26 years ago and never looked back. This method is about advanced spiral wrapping to create the "ultimate" and "exceptional" and "fantastic" performance possible. This method is about guides aligning themselves under load to straighten out line flow under load. John Scanlan's patented idea from way back in 1909, 112 years ago
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Here is an interesting rod... I purchased 2 of these rods which were identical in every detail. Both are full custom rods built in Texas by a custom rod builder back in the mid 1980's on G.Loomis blanks. Both of these rods belonged to and were used by an old retired tournament bass fisherman who is now deceased. I bought them when he was no longer able to fish so he sold all his stuff and I just
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I appreciate hearing some of you are willing to try something new- Jeff and Kendall. You two will be the first based on the new article Tom and I worked on for his December 2020 issue of Rod Maker magazine. Jeff is already working on it all by himself on his own by simply trying to replicate the system on 2 of his rods he is redoing by observing the rod I gave him as a sample. And it is not a
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I'm just gonna throw this out there... a monkey wrench in the thread... Hard adhesives like epoxy once cured don't move around, but the tubing might want to. This means over time the tubing can tear away from the epoxy and as it separates there is no re-adhesion properties at all. Its done. But there is a product I've used in the past that has a high adhesion ability, stays rubbery so it ca
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Shrink wrap or heat shrink tubing? I can't imagine trying to use shrink wrap on a rod much less gluing it to it.. And you can buy heat shrink tubing with a glue or adhesive already coating the inside so when you shrink it down with the heat causes the glue to activate and adhere. I'm curious if you have ever tried just coating the cord and be done with it?
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I found an old quote from Jim Meehan of American Tackle discussing SIC guides and their problem with manufacturing them: "The Nanolite ring is around 1800 VH just under SiC @ 2200. The ring like SiC, will handle wire line in recreational situations and will certainly stand up to the various super braids. The extra hardness of SiC is just not worth it in our opinion. We could very easily u
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Unless you are reeling in 200 pound plus tuna you won't need SIC guides. They are usually the most expensive and hardest made, but this also makes them the most brittle and easiest to break and shatter. I never use SIC guides and quite happy with Alconite. I also personally don't see any need for titanium. Kind of overkill.
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There is another issue I would consider... Braid is made from polyethylene plastic. It breaks down with UV light from the sun. Old milk jugs are made from it as well, and when left in the sun, the plastic breaks down and becomes brittle and cracks up and breaks up into pieces rather easily. Braid line is no different and will also break down and deteriorate with exposure to the sun unles
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Only if it is dry braid. If it has a lubricant on the braid line I would be concerned about it and epoxy not saturating as well and being repelled by the lubricant. But if dry, why not give it a try. I've never done it with braid so I can't say for sure... just be wary of line lubrication is all I can think of as a hindrance.
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Cool! I am doing the same with a trolling motor! Someone just gave me a MotorGuide 71 digital saltwater version- with completely smoked electronics as usual. So I rewired the motor, bypassed the smoked electronics and relays and wired direct to the brushes. And now I am using a similar to yours but bigger variable speed pulse width modulated power supply with reverse switch. Rated at 70A and 0 to
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From the look, those are from early 1980's maybe older. You might have to dig through old rods on @#$%& or where ever to find guides like those!
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Over on the left side of the forum are links to sponsors and several resource websites. Try angler's resource for guide placement assistance:
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> One of the main benefits of adding graphene nano > powder to composite materials is to improve > electrical conductivity. Naturally, not something > we’re particularly wanting to do with fishing > rods! > > We concluded that adding a bit of graphene to our > resins might be good for the marketing department A powder is nothing but an epoxy resin filler and wou
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Airflo makes rods like that. I used a journeyman blank for one of mine. Not sure if they are available any longer, but check with airflo.
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Not sure if I am reading your post correctly. Are you suggesting using epoxy to put on a tip guide? If so, then I'd say heck no. Don't do it. Because what if you break the tip and need to replace it? Are you willing to destroy the blank for a tip? Tips are generally installed using a heat glue adhesive, and even then do not overheat it. Only warm it up enough to loosen the glue and let the tip
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Gary typically builds on the straightest axis, > curve up, so that the weight of guides tend to > bring it back to straight. This isn't the spine, > however.. > So if we just take that S word "spine" out of it, are we good to go? lol ***And for the record, I was the one who
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Well let old Gary Loomis himself explain it! Here is a short youtube video where he explains it- and for the record, what I said above about where the soft side should be is exactly how Gary Loomis says it should be. So I guess I got it from him! Or, maybe, nah, I got it from him and I'll leave it there... Gary makes it clear, soft side up, baitcast rod guides go on top of the spined bend,
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This thread has been a kick in my butt to dig into a stack of rods I have in rotation for repairs or overhauling. So I pulled out 3 rods in particular... on 2 I am simply removing all the guides and putting new micro guides on them. These 2 are some of my early attempts at spiral wrapping rods going back over 20 years ago and were never happy with, but with my advancing knowledge on spiral gui
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I have not seen the video, but as far as spine, the physics of it are a simple comparison of 2 ways of doing it. One can always step out of these 2 ways and go sideways, but why? If we go with using the spine of a rod, or the one side the rod wants to bend to more easily than any other way... Then were are left with 2 choices. Soft spot up or down. I choose to put the soft spot up becaus
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No. Not for trim. . "Nylon and polyester are both synthetic fabrics, but nylon production is more expensive, which results in a higher price for the consumer. Nylon also tends to be more durable and weather-resistant, which is why it is more likely to be used in outdoor apparel or gear. Both fabrics are flame retardant, but nylon is stronger, while polyester is more heat-resistant.&quo
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When I build my spiral wrapped rods I have to align guides based on the reel's level wind line guide height off the blank. Changing reels can throw off line flow under load slightly.
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Doing a quick search on the G1000 shows it to be more than likely a lamiglas blank. Search hits on the G1000 show it could be a fly rod.
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roger wilson Wrote: > Kent, > You surely do have the spiral guide wraps figured > out. A perfect line flow with next to no rubbing > of line on a guide at all. > > Have a great day. Thanks Roger! The method I am now using to create my spiral wrapped bass fishing rods is detailed in the new December issue of Rod Maker magazine. Included in the new article are detai
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My blunders were mostly in spiral wrapping methods. When I first began over 25 years ago and some 125/135 plus rods ago(I lost count really), I built them based on the various methods I read about online at the time. Virtually all of them involved some form of accomplishing a 180 degree spiral wrap around the thickest portion of the blank closest to the reel and the entire 180 degree wrap done in
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Double post. So Happy new year! lol
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Jon Kistler Wrote: > with a levelwind > reel, I'd offset the stripper to the opposite side > of the rotation so that the levelwind works > properly (approx. 350, 55, 118, 180). So the spiral wrap should exceed 180 degrees? And what science or testing has shown the level wind does not operate properly when keeping the spiral wrap to 180 degrees? I have never seen conclusive
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Gary, would you unhide your email address so I can send you an email? Or, send me an email. Thanks!
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Numerous emails to St. Croix and rodgeeks about blank availability and no responses. ADDED: As of Christmas, St. Croix has now changed some of the information on the rodgeeks website to reflect their taking it over and "back open" statement while still not answering any requests for U.S. made SCV blanks availability.
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