Since you plan to use in salt water, as Mike indicated , you will want an all metal or metal with carbon spacer reel seat. You want to avoid a reel seat with wood spacer for salt.
The titanium stripping guides are nice, cost a bit more than cheap ones, but are strong and light. I used a similar stripper guide on my 8 wt NFC LMX. As to the Rec guides you could go with size 3 or 2, not much of a difference. I did 2 on my 8wt. I agree that full wells is best in a heavier weight rod and in salt, as it provides a good strong grip, and its better to spend more for the super-grade. Fighting butt also a good idea on rods 7 wt or heavier.
That is a fine and functional basic reel seat, and I believe on sale at Get Bit Outdoors. If you want something with more panache, you can look at the triangular reel seats, channel lock type, and AmTack has a really nice seat in the 3KFS that I used on a 6 wt but should do fine on a 9. Some of the seats IMHO that are meant for salt are almost too big, so before epoxying make sure your reel's foot fits well in the seat and you are not having to wind the nuts up to the end of the threads.
If the reel seat you choose is uplocking and requires an inlet in the grip, you will need to ensure the inlet your order for the grip is of the right size to fit the upclocking hood on the reel seat. It it is too small, you have to be very, very careful in sanding it to enlarge the inlet, as it is easy to crack off the edge.
For the titanium guides and Recoil guides you may want a ti-gray type winding check.
Here are some nice stripping guides on sale, though not Titanium: [
www.flyrodcrafters.com]
And I have had good luck with these winding checks: [
www.flyrodcrafters.com]
You will need a caliper to measure the width of the blank in the area of the winding check, which will be narrower than the butt of the rod. You don't want it too tight or to have to force it. on.
