I would look at Tackle Industries telescoping musky blanks
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Immortal popping medium power. The longer the better. Moderate fast action is best with braid and treble hooks.
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Assuming you are building a casting rod, put the guides on the high side (above the curve) so that they tend to make the curve less. If you keep the curve facing straight up it is much less noticeable. No, it won't affect your fishing. A half inch off in one foot is a pretty large amount and I might think of sending that one back. Once you know the curve is there you make keep looking for it and
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All the rods I have made are custom, in that there are no other rods exactly like them, unless I choose to make rods exactly like them. Doesn't matter if I picked the parts, made the parts, or someone else picked the parts. There are a million ways to make your custom rods more interesting. Some I like, such as turning your own handles, or interesting thread work, and some that I choose not to le
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You are absolutely entitled to share your opinion. And others are entitled to disagree. We just need to try and be kind in how we disagree. Myself included.
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There really is no science to it. Most of the time getting "close enough" visually is fine. A lot of rods have pretty generic guides. Most of the high-end guides are recognizable (ie Fuji guides have that stamped on them) You can sometimes tell ring material by the look, but about 0% of fisherman would notice that their rod with regular aluminum oxide guides has one alconite guide. Cert
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Not upset, just want to keep up the inclusive spirit of this hobby and website. Appreciate the apology, and I certainly understand that everyone can have their opinion about what brings them happiness.
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I have built more than one kit rod. The second one I did I managed to screw up quite badly. Basically you are saying that if you don't train enough to run a 3 hour marathon, you might as well not run at all. Doing things is only good if you are or hope to become an expert. Nonsense. Rodbuilding is a participation sport. I will never build a rod without flaws, and I'm ok with that.You're not tryin
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I'm guessing that means there is more money in mediocre production tolerances and throwing out lots of culls, rather than having more precision manufacturing. The cull rate above seems astronomical. Is it really that hard to consistently make straight, clean blanks?
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Depth of drive is related to line diameter, no whether it floats or sinks. It's a water resistance thing. As braid is thinner per lb test, it will have your lure run deeper when comparing the same line strength.
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I think it is about having decent amount of the rod blank bend when fighting a fish to cushion against the smallish trebles pulling out. Also, a 9 foot XF rod may have just as long flexible "cushioning" section as a 7 foot mod fast rod. I think it about the length of the rod that flexes during the fight, which changes significantly with rod length (and the size of the fish!) and not the
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Cut down both sides with a dremel tool and twist a straight slot screwdriver in the resultant slot and split the grip and pull the two halves apart. That one is a bit tougher as you need to be really careful in the area where the blank as exposed so you don't cut the blank. Also, I have that blank as a spinning rod, and it has never felt right to me either. I personally think the backbone is just
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NFC ratings are kinda hard to follow sometimes because they group all the rods of a certain construction together. A saltwater medium may be higher power than a bass heavy. I would ignore the medium, MH, mag medium and just look at the lure weight and action. I have a delta SW 764 that I use for smaller musky baits. I've been very happy with it and think it would do well for your intended applic
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Agree that the CRB is more than adequate, and also agree MH is the way to go in that one. The immortal I suggested above would be an awesome bottom bouncer rod, but who really needs an awesome rod for that? It does have a much more sensitive and supple tip than the CRB if your customer is picky about those things.
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Immortal popping 7' H moderate fast
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Thanks for the advice. I have considered most of the blanks mentioned. Revelation is a great blank, I have built several, but a but more than I want to spend when getting several blanks. Can get other blanks at a discount as well. With NFC I never know what I am going to get, both with their blank ratings and their quality. Not gonna take a flyer and buy 5-6 of the same blank, and a pain to order
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I've never had any issue wrapping in the usual fashion on blanks with ridges. Do it your usual way, and if you think it looks funny, cut it off and try something else. Light sanding probably won't hurt, but I don't think it is necessary and you have to be very careful.
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I'm looking for a blank for a spinning rod, around 7' medium power fast action. Generic I know, but basically an all purpose bass spinning rod. Something like 1/4-5/8 oz weights. I want to get several of them to build for members of my fishing club. What do you think is the best value blank around the $50 price range? Pac Bay Arctos is my first thought, just wanted to see what other options there
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I don't generally drop shot more than 1/4-3/8 oz, but I have the SJ-736 and think it would be way too stiff for a drop shot rod. Just doesn't have the softer tip I generally associate with fishing a drop shot, and also more power than I would consider using for that technique. I know you didn't ask about this one, but I also have an MB-733, and while the power seems right for heavier drop shot, t
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I just got a set (haven't built the rod yet) and they are perfectly fine. I'm not generally a fan of guides without ceramic rings, but I got this set for a specific reason (fishing below freezing) and I think they will do great. Quality is more than acceptable at their price point. They are cheap enough that the best way to find out if they will work for you is just to buy a set.
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In terms of the slower action for me it's not about the hook set, I'm not about to break 10 lb power pro (which is more like 20 pound) setting the hook on a 3 pound trout. However, I have pulled hooks out of fish as well as broken some hooks. The slower action gives you and the drag a bit of extra time to respond to sudden runs without pulling hard enough to pull hooks or break stuff. For what i
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I would use a blank a little slower than the Rainshadows suggested above, especially with braid. A little slower rod provides the cushion that I like in close quarters with big fish, braid, and treble hooks. I've caught quite a few big browns on a #11 rapala and ten pound braid. My go to rod is a loomis GL3 6'6" medium. It's less powerful and slower than say a St. Croix or Rainshadow medium
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Point Blank blanks are made in China. And they are awesome. NFC, made in Washington State, has awful quality control, way worse than a $40 Chinese made Rainshadow. In fact NC quality control is so poor that Kistler has to stop using their blanks. My two favorite factory spinning rods are a Loomis NRX and a Daiwa Steez AGS. Both fish great, but the build quality of the Chinese made Steez is way a
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So does it cost twice as much in labor to make a longer, more stout rod out of the same material? I get that things are priced by what people will pay for them, but it does not intuitively make sense that people would pay more for heavier power rods than lighter power rods. I would think in most blanks the middle area would attract the most buyers. Maybe I am trying to understand something that i
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I am curious about the (few) companies that price their blanks at a certain level all the same, from a 7' 3 weight to a 9'6" 6 weight. At other blank companies the longer and heavier blanks can cost twice as much. I am assuming that material cost is the most important consideration, given that perfectly well made blanks can be bought for 30 bucks. My guess would be that certain brands can ge
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How about 4 inches off a 5c70mh?
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I built on the old version of the hydra FL904F NG and think it is great blank for frog fishing. Softer tip for throwing lighter frogs but solid backbone. Of course now that it is $135 I might call that too expensive for a frog rod. I have the PB you mentioned, and I'm sure it would be a great frog rod, but something that sensitive I think deserves to be a bottom contact rod. From NFC, I completel
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The MB733 is around 340 grams of power. I am surprised you find it too stiff, mine is actually softer than I was expecting. I hate to ask, but NFC has been known to send the wrong blank. Are you sure you have the MB733? Or maybe I have the wrong one. Who knows with NFC.
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I built an xray MB 733 and it would not be stout enough for the techniques you mention, at least not for me. 3/16 oz and plastic is about as much as I like on it. I do think it has a nice fast but not too fast action for small paddletail swimbaits. I also built an mb736 and sj736 and think those would be too powerful for what you want. Sorry I haven't tried any blanks between those, but it is alw
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I'm very interested in this as well, as I think the NRX 872s and 852s rods are the best jigworm/shakeyhead rods out there. I can say that the xray MB733 is lighter powered and slower than those rods and I didn't really enjoy fishing jigs on it. I'm building a point blank 73Mxf, which I am sure is more powerful than the nrx's, but having not fished it yet I can only assume how it will perform.
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