Nothng turns up. Been on the phone again to mudhole and they say they have alot of requests like this from their international customers. They are going to sort me out with the paperwork, so hopefully everything will be OK :)
Forum: rodboard

Doug Schreiber Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > MSDS's hasn't been used in about 3 years. Look for > SDS, that is the standard now. nothing comes up on the google search, but called mudhole and they say they will email me a copy.
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just looked there and also searched google found nothing. Still waiting to hear back from mudhole. I bought this product over permagloss for the very reason i thought it would be safe!
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If anyone here works for mudhole or has contacts with the manufacturer, that would be great. I have a freight forwarder who is sending this product on to me and they refuse to ship it without a MSDS. Ive told them its water based and safe, but thats not good enough in their eyes. Any help would be appreciated.
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Fred Yarmolowicz Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The PG is the best to coat a blank. Epoxy is > for thread wraps. Unless you live in Florida. > (They like to coat entire rods in epoxy). The PG > will remain clear as the epoxy will yellow and if > the blank is anything other than black will have a > non favorable look in a year or tw
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would just take some very slow curing thread > finish. Apply a very thick coat to the tip of the > rod down past the cracks by about 1-2 inches. > Then, with the finish still wet, co a full thread > wrap starting at the tip of the blank and down to > the area where the thread finish stops. T
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John DeMartini Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What is the diameter 1 inch below the tip. If > there is no pronounced taper and the dimension is > approximately the same then cut off the inch and > install the tip. > It sounds like a very stiff rod so the effect on > the rod would be minimum. Because you are redoing > the guides then
Forum: rodboard

Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Fiberglass doesn't like heat. You need to > cut/split the tops off. You may have ruined that > first rod. Nothing you can add to it now will > restore it, although sold glass rods are pretty > tough and it may still hold up for what you plan > to do with it. Use don't heat and twist the tops >
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Im in the middle of restoring an old solid prestressed fibreglass rod and think ive done some damage while trying to remove the old roller tip. Ive got some cracks showing at the tip of the rod. I tried heating up the old roller top with a soldering iron and it seemed to be working, i could get some movement in the tip when twisting the tip off the rod, but it would not pull off. I kept trying
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It is amazing how much space the shock and ceramic > rings take up in these old style guides. Modern > guides are a heck of a lot better, no shock rings, > much thinner and stronger ceramics that are deep > pressed into the frames. In addition the modern > guides are also much lighter. > N
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Shaun Belcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Norman Miller Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > The ones with no B or R suffix are the hialoy > > guides and don’t have a shock ring. I > don’t > > know the difference between TiO and TiOx > > designations, I assume they both denote &g
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Pat Retlich Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Looks like the the TiO is a chrome finish and the > TiOx is a black finish. Possibly, but its weird that I can select the frame colour on a seperate menu, while at the same time select TiO, TiOx, etc. Its definitely listed as the ring material.
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The ones with no B or R suffix are the hialoy > guides and don’t have a shock ring. I don’t > know the difference between TiO and TiOx > designations, I assume they both denote titanium > oxide rings. The S guides are an old fashion style > stamped frame guide. The titanium oxide rings are &g
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Some of the PacBay S guides come with a plastic > shock ring to hold the the titanium oxide ceramic > ring in place. B stands for a black shock ring and > R stands for a green shock ring. The S guides with > a hialoy ceramic insert do not use a shock ring. > Norm > Ps - They do not come in
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Im wanting to order a bunch of pacbay model S guides, and i see they are listed in sizes 6 to 50, but I can also choose sizes 6B to 50B and 6R to 50R. I would really like to know what the difference is between these prefixes, but im having trouble finding such guides in the sizes im after, I really could do with a size 14 for example. If these other sizes are a bit larger, that would be advan
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Dennis Danku Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Check Photo page for recent photos under my name. They look nice, do you know if they are stainless? Looks like some are blue and others are black? Would be nice to find some with the red shock ring.
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Dennis Danku Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Shaun , You pay shipping, I'll give you what you > need. > Oops, sorry. These are N.O.S. guides. FUJI's Id be happy with those, unsure if they are stainless though? Got any photos?
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Im needing to replace the old corroded guides on a rod im rebuilding with this type from mudhole. Only issue is I really could do with more sizes, they dont have any size 16, which is a closer match to the size i had on this rod to begin with. I ordered a bunch and also noticed that the size 20 guide was much rougher on the frame and looked more like a chrome coating rather than nice smoo
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Permagloss can be used as a wrap finish but it is > very thin and it takes multiple coats to get a > smooth finish, I think it works better as a clear > coat on a blank, because it is so thin and light, > but also extremely hard and durable., and it cures > very quickly. Using epoxy gives a thi
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > CTS, a NZ company, has Crystal Coat finish. I > don’t recommend wrap finishes for clear coating > a blank. Try an automotive clear coat for your > blanks and an epoxy finish for your wraps. > Norm OK, so is permagloss a wrap finish? I want something that will be long lasting and not chip off
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes, Coat first then wrap on the guides. Don’t > know anything about availability of rod finishes > in New Zealand. Check with some local rod > builders. I assume there are a lot of rod builders > there, and they know what is available and where > it’s sold. They have to get there supplies from
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Im seeing prokote thrown around a bit too. That looks like an epoxy. I see mudhole stock all these products, but have no idea if they would ship something flammable internationally as its probably considered dangerous goods. Also is it typical to coat the rod blank first before binding the guides onto it?
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A number of people have recommended using > Citri-Strip and a scotch brite pad for removing > the old paint. Others will use a blade held at 90 > degrees to scape the finish off. Once the paint or > finish is off the blank, you can be wet sanded > with 800 to 200O grit wet/dry sand paper to get
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I would like to know too. Is paint stripper safe to use? I think it scratches off easy enough and seems that the stuff on the rods ive got is more like lacquer as methylated spirits seems to re-activate it. What do people re-coat these rods with nowdays? Its good to see im not the only one who repairs and rebuilds these rods.
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Anthony Unger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It did seem to help towards the tip.. I could have > went a little more agressive towards the butt, but > theres alot of fractures.. I didnt want to risk > shanking myself by accident lol.. If varnish is > your issue, dawn dish soap and a good bath.. > Seriously though try soft scrub with bleac
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Grant Darby Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > White color fast thread touched with a colored > permanent marker while the rod is > turning.....cheap, fast, easy....but not nearly as > goodlooking as done with colored thread. OK, thanks for that. I just dont know if its more secure to have one continuous wind of a single thread rather than putting
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Yeah I agree, I dont think sanding these rods does them any good, especially if it exposes the fibreglass. I think that using a gentle scouring pad or steel wool would be OK to clean down all the old varnish to the bare blank? Anyone recommend anything better on a rod you want to use?
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Grant Darby Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Extra guides are never a problem, just an advance > on the next project! My comment about the roller > tip refers to the the very much thinner diameter > of the braid. It often gets stuck between the > roller and frame....not good. Newer roller tip > tops are better designed to handle today's bra
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UV can affect them i guess, is there any type of dye or stain you could use to mask it I wonder? most of my rods seem OK that ive got, but whatever type of varnish they put over them goes yellow and flakes off and everything looks quite nice and bright on the ones ive cleaned. I guess its actually protected the rod somewhat from the UV. Just not sure what product to apply to the rod to finish
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here is an article from the library. > > ml > I guess I’m more of a refurbisher than a > restorer. > Norm Thanks for that, looks like i need to buy a bunch of guides first and experiment i guess?
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