Simple question... I don't like the clunkiness and inaccuracy of the std grease pencils most folks seem to use. I have read that some use welders pencils and others use refillable fine line carpenters pencils. I have used paint pens but find them a bit hard to clean up afterwards. I like things marked with fine lines or tic marks that are accurate. Can some of you explain what you use to mar
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Thank you, Walter!
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Not removing epoxy.... adhesive from sticker
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Just for clarification, I always put a light layer of epoxy down first and then apply my decals. So, I'm not removing the adhesive residue from the blank but the epoxy I put down before the sticker was applied. I've never used Goo Gone on epoxy but have used it many times on the plain blank with great success. I'm more concerned with screwing up the initial epoxy layer I put down and contamina
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I make a lot of my own labels and custom stuff with my Epson inkjet printer. I use the inkjet waterslide decal paper occasionally and have had decent results. I also use NEATO clear stick label sheets on my printer (Make sure to print in high res). All of these need to be sprayed with KRYLON UV Clear for protection. Chuck
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Unfortunately, I've had to remove several stickers that were applied over epoxy. They were not coated yet. I heated and pulled off the plastic but some minimal adhesive remained. I used some alcohol and got most but the surface seems tacky. Should I use something else like acetone? Sand lightly? Or...can I just epoxy over the residue (worried about fisheyes...etc) Thank you all for any sugg
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I use the injet waterslide decals occasionally and have had decent results. I also use NEATO clear stick label sheets on my Injet. All of these need to be sprayed with KRYLON UV Clear.
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Hey Lee, I've built many walleye rods over the years and for many different situations. As many have stated, the blank you choose should be geared to how you're going to use it. I find a medium-light blank in the 6'6" to 7' length will be a good "all-purpose" rod. However, if you're going to troll or pull bottom-bouncers, that particular blank will not perform. Your question
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I'm in the process of putting together a material list for 2 walleye trolling rods. I'm a little confused on what size and spacing I should be using. The blanks are 2pc MH moderates. I'm considering dbl foot guides for the first 3 guides sz10, 8, and 6 then sz 6 single foot runners (9-10 total guides) or would I be better starting with sz 12 and scaling down? Would sz8 or 7runners be better?
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Same colors. One on white and one on black.
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If you want the white to be part of the background, then no. If you're trying to add a base color, then mask and spray paint that section only. I always lay a clear base coat down first, then dab tinted epoxy into it. If you're using Testors, drain the liquid off so only the pigment is left in the jars. Works better. If using powder, you don't need much to achieve your color. If I could sugg
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My biggest mistake I made when starting out was putting on too much finish. It is always better to put on 2 thin coats than to glop on one trying to get it perfect. One added advantage of 2 coats is if you have any blemishes or tags on guides...etc, you can trim or file them off and cover with another thin second coat to get them perfect. Chuck
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Hey Daryl, Welcome to the fold! This is a great place for information and to ask questions. When I started, I often asked them...trust me! If I can offer a couple ideas, as you gain knowledge in this "hobby", I'd like to say PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE... I remember how hard many things were in the beginning and how second nature they have become now. #2 - If it doesn't look ri
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Just a quick question. Before I get too far down the road, I'm wanting to do a 2 thread wrap on a bass rod I'm working on. I want the result to be subtle. I've done many tigers in the past but only 3 threads. My question is can I do both threads with metallic? Unfortunately, I can't get the color combo I like with normal thread and a metallic. I appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance!
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Hey Dave, If there is one lesson I've learned, after many years, is the first coat should be VERY thin. You'll sometimes see the thread pattern showing through...don't worry. Trim any tags and put another light coat on (on occasion a 3rd) and you'll never have another problem again with bulging/sagging. I'd recommend trying to sand down the one you have started and, as mentioned above, the
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Hey Robert, Yes, you can but it takes a bit of prep. I've done many emblems and labels on blanks. You have to seal them with Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear High Gloss spray paint. I use both white and clear Inkjet Water-slide decal paper. You can buy on Amazon. If you want to do butt emblems, use gloss photo paper and seal with same spray before insetting in butt cap. Chuck
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Hey Mark, I wish I'd have seen this earlier. I'm assuming you've already done your epoxy work by now. However, for future reference, I have used Modge Podge several times over the years and it works great! Chuck
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Yes. Need suggestions for the blanks
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Along that line... I have typically installed my alum winding checks over a decorative wrap and after a light coat of CP or epoxy. Because of this, I usually wait until after this process to measure and order my checks. Obviously, it is a pain for time as I have to wait to order them. I typically use A thread so is there a way to figure out how to order checks that will take into consideration
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I'm going to be building several jaw jacker type rods for walleye. I'm a little concerned about the action and length. A typical walleye blank just seems a little too stiff. For any of you who have built some and have suggestions, I would be extremely grateful. Thanks in advance!! Chuck
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We’ve just begun to experiment with several designs of handles for our ice rods and I have a question to throw out for you experts. When you design these, what percentage of infill are most of you using for strength? We put a few together as prototypes with 15% but I feel that the final product should be a bit higher. If you could give us some input that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in
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Hey Scott, Personally, I'm a very visual person and learn quicker while watching. Mary McIntyre's videos are great! (Decorative Wraps) They're not professionally filmed (which I also like) but are so informative and easy to follow! They are just a few bucks apiece and you can watch them over-and over! It's also a great follow on Facebook - Southern Rod Builders... Mary is the admin Chuc
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Pleae email me list as well! Thx Chuck
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Like mentioned above, wooden dowels work great! Spray paint first with black, white or any other color you may be using for blank colors. Experiment with coverage, color combinations and allowing the epoxy to “setup” a bit before applying. All these, including adding heat, will produce different affects. Also, Testors vs powder pigment. Dowels are easy, cheap and work great IMHO. Chuck
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Just went to seal some handles and noticed the lid was apparently not put on tightly and the liquid has almost disappeared. The part that’s left in the jar is thick but not hardened. I can’t find anything on the jar (U40) that says what the base solution is? If I can’t save it, lesson learned I guess but if anyone knows what I can use to thin it back to formula, I’d appreciate it! Thanks in adv
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Thanks for the responses!! Order placed...
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Just went to order some more G4 from Get Bit and their website says its no longer available? I have fallen in love with the stuff and can't find where to buy now... :( Figured maybe someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance! Chuck
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I’ve been making custom handles now for quite some time. I have always used the traditional small aluminum cutting jigs for my cork and found D thread the easiest to slice EVA. I have seen posts on using a small band saw as a more precise way of cutting slices. I have a nice Delta that I’d like to experiment with but would rather not reinvent the wheel if someone has developed something to hold
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Thank you everyone for the great (and detailed) answers! I knew I could count on you folks to point me in the right direction. I'm really excited to move forward on this project and feel very confident on how to proceed. Thank you so much for all your great feedback! Chuck
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Hey Don, Thanks! I was thinking a lower profile Lews Super Duty reel. That’s why I’m debating on the sz 12. Was going to do single foot but you suggest double instead? Want to get this right the first time. Chuck
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