If I may ask a question regarding the application of epoxy to the "tunnels" created by the interface of the guide and the blank...I use a turning motor whose RPM is about 4 to 6. I don't remember off hand. I'm pretty sure I bought it from Flex Coat, in about the mid eighties. A little slow perhaps, but it works great! I always find myself having to stop the motor after applying th
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The discussion somehow went from talk about rod/blank performance (or perceived performance based on a manufacturer's descriptions) to the nuances of braided lines. It was all very interesting, but if I may I'd like to get back to the original topic. Unless I am completely in another world, the way I see it is that most agree that the CCS system is a sound system whereby one can get consistent
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I decided to try my hand a the "olive branch" and "saw blade" techniques, and I usually do not use anything but size A thread. I watched several YouTube videos demonstrating the techniques, and went to work. As far as I'm concerned, the result was terrific....but microscopic! :-( Every video I watched resulted in patterns that were clear and bold. Were they using crazy
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I wrapped many rods through books in the past, and it works as good if not better than any other method. I'm not sure what other people do if using the book method, but I also drop the spool (on its side of course) in a coffee mug. Spool in coffee mug---->through the books with tension to your liking---->onto the rod. The line peels off the spool smooth as silk!
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OK Glenn...I figured it out. NOW...if someone could chime in regarding NFCs version of demonstrating the power/stiffness properties via the graphs for each individual blank that they provide, it would be most welcomed. Plain and simple, I don't understand what I am looking at. I also get the feeling that I may not be the only one who doesn't. If someone can shed some light in this regard, inc
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Glenn...I'm not sure how the rodhouse site works. Are their list of blanks the only blanks they compare?
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The NFC SJ735: IP=793 gm; AA=75. Certainly in the > MH and Fast areas. > Norm OK Norm...sorry to do this to you, but can you explain how to use/interpret NFCs graphs pertaining to each blank? How is that useful to me?
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Wow! And that blank as described is heavier than the SJ765. Well...at least they're consistent. But it does make choosing a blank quite difficult. :-(
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Just wondering if anyone is familiar with this blank. It's billed as a Med/Heavy blank with fast action. Most of the X-ray blanks that I have purchased in the past have been a little more supple than I would have expected based on the description. I'm not looking for a pipe, but I am looking for something with a little backbone for snook and redfish.
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I picked up a Shimano 4000Fl reel recently that I thought was is essentially perfect condition. I decided to give it an overhaul (bad decision), and began with the line roller. Turns out the roller with all its components was frozen, and after soaking it with a penetrant, tried to remove it from its attachment to the bail wire, and it wouldn't budge. At that point I tried to coax it a little with
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OK...got it. Differing opinions for sure! However, as a result of all your responses, I don't feel as if the ten guides I have on the rod at this time is necessarily too many. That said, I must find myself on the side of those who are at least partially coming up with their formulas with respect to the length of the blank. Actually, it seems to me to be an issue of how much blank length is av
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I recently finished a NFC 703-1, and I love it! I used a 20-10-5.5 reduction, and ultimately 5 more 5.5 running guides plus the tip top. The blank is 7' long, and so it took 8 guides plus the tip. Not long after I purchased the 703, I decided to try to put one together that was a little heavier, and ended up with a MB 765-1 Neo. This one is 7 1/2 feet long. I saw no reason not to set
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Not only that - you should wet-out the inside of > he seat with epoxy before installing also. > Herb > CTS If I understand correctly, you are saying that the ID of the reel seat should itself be coated with epoxy before being set into place. Just to be certain...you are then running the gumme
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Thank you all for your replies. Roger...I do not have a lathe, but I did follow your instructions for the use of a drill. Problem solved. I was able to create a longer tenon to fit the entire butt cap. Rod butt, tenon and the end of the butt cap are all flush now. Pretty close to perfect. Thank you so much.
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Thank you guys. I feel better now! :-)
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I tried not to have to ask this question by looking into old posts, but I was unsuccessful. Prepping the blank with whatever method you choose seems to almost be universal here on the board, but that's where it seems to end. I don't build and have not built a ton of rods to date, but I have put a bunch together going back as far as 30 years or more. I was originally taught to scuff up the area
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Sorry.... How would I cut the butt cap and keep a perfect rim to mate with the lip of the grip at the tenon? I'd like to do that , but once again I'm not sure how to do it and keep it square.
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Sorry.... How would I cut the butt cap and keep a perfect rim to mate with the lip of the grip at the tenon? I'd like to do that , but once again I'm not sure how to do it and keep it square.
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Tom, "...shim the extra space at the blank butt beyond the tenon." I don't do this a lot (build rods). How do I do this? I'm only talking about 1/3 inch of space that will be left between the end of the tenon/rod butt and the end of the butt cap.
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To answer your question Norm, the tenon is about 3/4 the length of the butt cap.
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Thank you for you replies. If I do extend the butt of the blank beyond the end of the tenon and abut the bottom of the butt cap, do I fill the space with epoxy?
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Sorry for this question, but I am about to begin gluing the handle assembly. The vinyl / rubber butt cap that fits the tenon is about 1/3 to 1/2 inch longer than the fitting. Once in place, there leaves that much air space between the very end of the tenon and the bottom of the butt cap. I would usually glue the grip to the blank and have the bottom of the blank flush with the end of the ten
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Thank you all for your replies. Norm was right in his interpretation. But...does everyone usually answer questions keeping whoever asked it in the first place in the "third person"? :-)
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Sorry for what may be a dumb question, but I have a ten inch cork grip on the way that I am pretty sure I am going to want to shorten a couple of inches. It doesn't seem like rocket science, but I have never had a reason to do this before. Can I use a fine toothed hack saw and a mitre (or miter if you will) box to do this? One end has a tenon for the butt cap, so of course I will be cutting th
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Thank you all for your replies. I feel good to go!
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And sorry for the double post. I didn't realize that it went through the first time. :-)
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Sorry for this question, but I have been fly fishing since I was thirteen years old, since fly line designations were made with three letters before they began the numbering system. Can anyone explain to me what ERN is about, or guide me to where I can read about this?
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Sorry for my ignorance. I have been fly fishing since I was thirteen years old, going back to when fly lines were designated by three letters instead of numbered weight lines. Can anyone explain to me or guide me to information on what ERN is?
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You are not doing anything out of the ordinary, > anyone that has worked with glass, or composite > blanks have been there, you're fine. 16mm exposed > reel seats are made to 15mm, a standard 27mm > (1.1") cork grip will be fine as will a lot of > cork fore grips that will match any reel
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I am about to try to put together an NFC 765-1 X-ray NEO blank, and I originally intended to use EVA grips which I have already purchased. But after purchasing Fuji K series reduction and running guides for the blank, I thought I might as well go with what I would call first class, and go with cork grips. The problem is, the butt end of the blank is 15mm (0.6 inches) wide. Mudhole has rear gr
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