Bill,do you have some insight into their operation and their parameters for sustaining it's viability that we don't? If not,perhaps it is best to say nothing. Just my two cents... ;)
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Dang phone!
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Sorry,double post.
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Ask the sender. Frankly,I I would refrain from further discussions with anyone that butchers their grammar,and the English language so badly. That is if you quoted them via copy and paste. At best,they may have been drunk. At the worst,clear communication would be too trying.
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David,are you referring to heat tape as used on water pipes? I recall that being mentioned in a journal type publication back in the 80s. It was used in combination with a dryer box also.
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Nate,while you can use the HB guides on that rod,I would like to know why. Serious overkill there.
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Hey Billy. Wasn't that 1st WC show in '07? It was neat meeting you and Sean. You guys brought some awesome rods!
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I often wonder why decent people post same or similar questions on public forums. Yes,I realize common sense isn't as common as it used to be,and still needs to be. These questions may be as simple as info regarding warranties on blanks or shipping/mailing costs for ordered items. If your hard earned dollars are that important,as they are to me also,be diligent and thorough. It's not unlike being
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Have you tried asking the customer service folks at Mudhole to see if they would simply mail them for less than that? You might be surprised.
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Have to tried contacting Jim Ising,or anyone else at Anglers Resources? What specific properties are you inquiring about? Not that I would have the answers....
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It can't hurt a build if you do a dry fit of handle components in future builds. If the fit is off,put the offending piece on a mandrel,chuck it in a lathe,and then correct it. It is always a good idea to make sure that grip ends are always squared up to begin with.
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Now that you know how to use your thread tension system,I will add the following: For a truer black,use regular nylon thread. The choice is yours to use color preserver or not . It tends to work best without CP. Threads from most, if not all thread manufacturers that are designed to not need color preserver should be avoided. If you absolutely have to use the NCP thread, definitely avoid usin
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While I don't recall hearing of this happening with their regular nylon thread, (doesn't mean it won't) the NCP type is notorious for doing what you experienced. I would follow Tom's suggestions. I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the blanks manufacturer.
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All sound suggestions as mentioned. I will add a reminder: If you use trim rings/winding checks with the split grips, be sure you have them in place before epoxying the next piece of your handle.
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Norman is correct about the standard lathe motor. I believe you are referring to the 1/4 up motor,correct? If so,I had one that I acquired from Clemens. The downside was that it was a DC motor. As I recall,I had a devil of a time trying to set it up for easier use. I found it hard to use as is due to its DC classification. When plugged in,it went from 0,to full RPM status. I never found a way
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What brand of thread are you using? All rod wrapping threads I have used in the past,Gudebrod and Holland,were created with opaque nylon threads. The opaque threads did not require color preserver. Nor does the metallic. You can still use CP if you wish. It may darken the base color a bit when coated without it. As has been suggested,dampen a wrap with alcohol to see how epoxy will affect the col
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Jon,I too am interested in checking out the site. My email addy is available in my profile. Thank you in advance.
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To answer your first question,I have no idea. In some ways it is similar to epoxy finishes. I would think adherence to threads,ability to soak into the thread,and flexibility,to be the big issues. As for flexibility goes,if used in thin coats,it might possibly work. Yes,it has been done. That was ages ago,however. A bigger pain in the neck than actually minimizing the introduction of bubbles to
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Bert,the technique stays the same.There is a minor difference between the two materials and any technique used. The EVA needs to be closer in diameter to the blank than hypalon. The reason being that hypalon can stretch more than the EVA without splitting. When I did my building with hypalon,I would routinely use 1/2 in. hypalon for butt grips on blanks to 3/4 in. or a bit larger. My customers an
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I believe you are looking for the fixed hood.
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Perhaps a matching hookkeeper could be acquired,and the folding part removed from it. Then you would have the necessary piece to replace what is missing. Then there is no need for rewrapping anything.
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Nick,just any FYI: Silk thread is a natural fiber as opposed to nylons which are synthetic. They don't necessarily react the same to heat. When using silk thread,the best option is to wrap in such a way to not create fuzzies. Darrel,this subject has come up many times in the past. The search feature is your friend. To answer your question, insert your tie off loop sooner. Cut the thread with
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I have some old Clemens catalogs and they did sell some Shakespeare blanks. I will try to find them over the weekend and see what info they can offer you. I am not sure if Bullard did,yet may have. Sadly, I have none of those any longer.
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Wood rods? Or the mushroom butt caps for wooden handles?
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No shelf life. However, if you kept them in a box in the closet.... lol They should be fine to use even if you build a rod with them 20 years from now.
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No shelf life. However, if you kept them in a box in the closet.... lol They should be fine to use even if you build a rod with them 20 years from now.
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Check out the RodGeeks blanks. Billy Vivona had a lot of input on those and they were designed for those applications.
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That is heartbreaking. My sympathies to you. The best reason for PVC tubing with a reinforcement stake. I suspect it would not have held up to the automated machinery though.
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Sellers can make any claim they wish to sell their product. Sometimes it is an outright lie. Sometimes there is more information that is required. Perhaps you could inquire of the seller what their procedure is to achieve your desired results. Their desired results may be totally different from the results you wish to see. I am not sure who your supplier was, or what their intended outcome is. Th
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Some manufacturers of sewing threads actually make,and market suitable threads for use in rebuilding. They are untreated for machine usage,as is often the case with sewing or embroidery thread. You may wish to experiment with the "unsuitable" threads on scrap blank sections or dowels. Wrap the threads and then apply several coats of color preserver. This will encapsulate any potential
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