I believe I have, yes. I have done several cross wraps and chevrons. My last wrap was a reverse chevron(which I didn't know I did until I got the book) :)
Forum: rodboard

I recently removed my failed attempt of a closed wrap because my spacing was off. I want to try either a St John's cross or a Spider wrap this time around. I recently got the Decorative Wraps book so I SHOULD be able to do either. I have 4 different shades of blue I was going to use for the wrap in an attempt to have the colors fade as well. What are the opinions of these wraps? Is one easie
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I haven't used threadmaster in awhile so I don't know if its the same for others.. If the finish is still a bit tacky, I will apply a second coat without any prep. If it is not tacky, then I will scuff it a bit. I normally don't try to put any additional coats on after 48 hrs.
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I would be interested in that if you find it. No pull loop..interesting...
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The alignment is the hardest thing for me thus far. I did notice that the 'reverse chevron' is what I did by 'accident' on my last build. I like the fact that little variations can yield vast differences.
Forum: rodboard

So I just got the 'Decorative Wraps' book today from Mudhole. I haven't opened it yet due to virus concerns. What would be a good starter wrap? I wanted to try the 'fish' wrap, just not sure if that is one of the more difficult ones.
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Dumb question..how do we get the unfinished blanks? I got several from Mudhole which are awesome. If I can get something similar from NFC, that would be awesome!
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I wish I would have gotten more! Not sure where the OEM was originally done, but it is definitely a quality blank. I did some test casts, very sweet. Now to actually fish with it...
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Not yet. I did pick up one of the OEM fly blanks they offered around Xmas time. Very sweet rod. Curious as to the CRB fly rod as well. Thinking a 3wt is in my future
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I mix my epoxy in the plastic cups then transfer to aluminum foil after mixing. By the time I get the rod dryer turned on and brush in hand, any air bubbles have already disappeared.
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After using solely 2 piece rods up until I learned to build rods, I now only use 1 piece rods (minus fly rods). I have had the 'flying rod' happen way too often when trying to get a lure out just a little further. Granted 1 piece rods are bit of a pain to move around indoors (doors, walls, ceiling fans) but they are substantially better in my opinion.
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I don't see the need to add epoxy prior to the winding check. It will just add more weight and may prevent you from putting the winding check flush against the rod/grip. If you are worried about the threads, add some cp for the adhesive properties.
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Im in Emmaus (just south of Allentown).
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Billy..I saw it on the Mudhole Live's Rod Builders Workshop. I thought you were tagged in it. It was a pic of the rods at the NERB booth I believe. I will have to plan the trip down. A bit of a drive from PA.
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I have found that the steps mentioned above work for most rods. However, I did 'upgrade' a couple store bought rods that gave me some major issues. I purchased a couple rods from Cabela's (their brand) for my sons. I found that the guides were heavily glued on and did not actually have thread. There was some sort of tape used in place of thread. I had to use a razor blade as a chisel because
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I saw the posts on facebook regarding the show. Seems like it was a great turn out. Gotta make my way down there for next year's show.
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I will use elastic bands on bigger rods but use the tape method on the smaller rods. I don't like leaving the tape on long at all. I will use the elastic bands to hold the guides in place if it will be anything longer than an hour. I will then tape when I am ready to wrap. Once enough thread is on the guide foot, off comes the tape.
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Thanks for all the replies. I will be setting up the guides in the next few days.
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Yea..attempting a fade wrap on EVA. I have marbled an EVA previously and it came out awesome. The bubbles weren't a probably at all actually. I just want to try something a bit different without sacrificing the rod itself. I want to do minimal wraps on the guides and nothing decorative on it. Thusly wanting to decorate the EVA itself.
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I was thinking how I can decorate my fly rod build without adding weight to the rod itself. I was thinking of possibly putting a wrap on the grip itself. I got an EVA full wells for the build, mainly due to cost, but now I think I can make it something more. I was thinking of doing a fade wrap on the grip itself then expoxing it just like you would a butt wrap. Has anyone actually done this?
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I knew I read somewhere before but I couldn't find it in the search. Tom had mentioned that he usually puts the stripping guide at 32". I wasn't sure where that distance. From the end of the butt, or the end of the reel seat? This will be my first fly build so don't want to screw it up before I get started.
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I will be using the guides on a md heavy fast action rod. I will be more than likely using 30# braid. Below is the guide set that I got. Based on your reply, should be good. Just first look they don't seem for that weight class. I guess Im just used to the generic guides on store bought rods DBRLVL-8 (4) DBRLVL-10 (3) DBRLVL-12 (1) DBRLVL-16 (1)
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I just recently received the Virtus DBRLVL-K-3 guide set for a saltwater rod I plan on building. They seem a little smaller than what I expected. Has anyone used these guides for a saltwater bottom fishing rod? Just curious if I should continue with these guides or get something a bit beefier.
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Ok, that makes a bit more sense then. It just seemed odd to me to use a stouter rod with that light of line. I would think that you would lose a bit of sensitivity, but if you have been using this type of setup then ill take your word for it :)
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I am more curious as to why a med/heavy if you are only using 8lb line....
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I cant really speak to the topic as of yet. I have only built one saltwater rod and that was for inshore applications. I put an underwrap and a single overwrap on the guides. It looks bulky but it is solid. I was contemplating building a tuna rod, just haven't gotten around to it. I would do an underwrap and probably 2 overwraps as well. My thought is that I would do the underwrap then coat
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One thing I have found is that when rod building, if your patience goes then walk away from the table. If you build when you are frustrated then your rod will echo it. I have found this AFTER I completed a rod and thought '@#$%& is that?'. Lots of isopropal alcohol for clean up, lots of paper towels. Another thing is aluminum foil. I use that to pour my epoxy into after mixing. Its a cheape
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Thanks for the update. I would love to drive down to the expo but not enough time. Ill have to plan for next year's
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I check the site daily to see if any new specials appear but haven't seen any recently. The best was when they had the unfinished grab bag blanks. Anyone know if something like that is going to occur in the near future?
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I agree with Tom. I think Andrew's explanation is ample enough info to perform a cross wrap. I haven't seen any replies from Erik so maybe he was satisfied with the answer?
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