I havent done anything with the rod lately since applying the WD40. It seemed to do the trick, for now. If I have some extra time, I might try applying some finish and wiping. That seems like it would be a good approach for the slightly deeper abrasions. I definitely dont want to create high spots. Thats what made me redo the rod in the first place. Its my rod and and completely aesthetic s
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I agree with Dan on the sizes. I have mixed A and D with no issues thus far. The only thing I could think of that may give you an issue is if you dont pack the thread tight enough.
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I havent tried multiple threads yet, but I did something a bit different for my trim wrap. Tape a toothpick to the blank close to your wrap. Then cut off a long enough piece of thread that will suffice for your wrap. Then wrap the thread around the section where the tooth pick is. Slip the tail ends of the thread back under the wraps, make sure to pull the thread through from the same end tha
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The rod is done, I just wanted to fix up the scratches left by the sandpaper. The WD40 seemed to do the job for the most part. There are a couple of outstanding spots, but nothing too bad. If I was to fix deeper abrasions, what would be the suggested fix?
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I have some WD40 laying around..Ill give that a shot. Thanks!
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I dunno about expensive brushes, but I have been cleaning my cheap ones with alcohol as soon as I am done using it. No issues thus far.
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So I recently removed the guides on my first rod because the finish ended up having footballs and such. I re-wrapped the guides and put finish on the guides once again. There are some spots left on the blank from the previous attempt where scratches still exist on the blank, probably from my sanding job. I saw that maybe using clear nail polish would help to smooth over the scratches. All are
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Hopefully you will be able to learn from my mistakes. I completed my first rod about a month ago. I thought that the more finish, the better. That is definitely not the case. I built my 2nd rod and it came out substantially better when I applied a thin coat of finish to the threads. When applying the finish, be careful to remove any extra. You will see sags at the bottom of the rod when thi
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Ill have to look around and see if there is anything available around me. Kinda sparse here in the Pconos
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I read this on another topic but it wasn't part of the original topic so Im starting a new thread. Someone mentioned the 'contribute bin' at stores where they were able to get rods from. I wasnt quite sure how this was possible and if someone could expand on the topic. My original thought was that it is junk that a retail store might throw out because of broken products and such.
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That looks similar to a piece of a reel seat I have for a production casting rod. The hood piece has a piece to it that slides into the groove shown in the picture. My guess is that it is created that way to keep the hood from spinning around. I would definitely hold on to it.
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Ok..first time I am hearing of 'contribute bin'. Are you talking about major chain stores that might have breakage and they are just going to toss em out? Yes.I have learned the hard way and heated up a tip top too much and blank just fell apart...wont do that again.
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It seems that there are several differing opinions here. I will experiment, which is one of things I like the most about rod building, and see where it takes me. The one rod I deconstructed had so much build up of decals, it took a substantial amount of time to get the decals off. The smell of the heated up decals was quite nasty. Is there a way to remove decals without creating awful fumes
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Sounds like most of you are fairly far away from me. I used to live in Emmaus then moved up to Swiftwater. I have built 2 rods so far, working on a third. I am also re-purposing a store bought rod. I just marbled the grips and i think it came out pretty sweet! Yes..I am a rod building addict now!
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From what I have seen on here and searches on the net, it seems like there are very few rod builders in PA. I have noticed a few here and there but not that many. Im located in the Poconos if there are any other PA people here.
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Thanks for the quick replies. I figured I would use a similar approach to how I apply the rod finish. Put it on the rod dryer and apply as it spins. I didnt think I would need to load up the threads but it makes sense to ensure the threads are completely covered enough to soak in the CP. I like to have my rod on the dryer for at least 8 hours for the finish. I would assume that at least that
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I have my 2nd rod drying the guide wraps. The sage green color has darkened substantially to almost black. I will be using the rod so it's not a big deal but if I want to give any future rods to other people I will need to make sure the color is what is expected. The next rod I build I will have to invest in some color preserver. What is the best way to apply CP? Do you normally wrap the gui
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I havent removed grips and a seat but I have removed guides. For that, I put a little candle undearneath the rod on my rod dryer. This gives it enough heat to soften it up. Just be careful if you use this approach to not let it get to hot otherwise the rod blank will get compromised.
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I will also suggest the guide foot adhesive. It works substantially better than tape or anything else. As Donald noted, make sure it is exactly where you want it because once you have the wrap on it, it won't move.
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Thanks for the replies. I think at this time I will not do the restoration. There are several factors as to why not but the main reason is that I dont want to trash the rods. For now, I will clean them up and hang them on my office wall. When I feel more confident with my rod building skills, I may attempt at a future date.
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I would post some pics..but not sure how i do that? I have to create a separate gallery login?
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Bob, I was looking at that recently as well. I think that might work well for the pistol grip that I want to work on. We shall see.
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Ok, Im gonna ask a stupid question here...what is the advantage of creating a spiral setup? The novice rod builder in me is intrigued to understand the reason why. The fisherman in me is asking why mess with something that has worked for me in the past.
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The first thing I need to do is to clean off all the glue residue that is left on the reel seat of the one rod. I could just use some steel wool for that, but I want to attempt to keep everything intact if I can. I did work on the one last night and I found out that the rod actually gets screwed into the reel seat. The butt cork section on the one also gets screwed in, while the other seems to
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I have a couple of my grandfather's old rods that I was looking to restore. There are no brand markngs on any of them so I cant begin to determine what they are. The glass screws into the top of the reel seat that is a forged metal seat. There are also pieces missing because the reels that are are on them are taped on. I am merely restoring them for myself so I won't be doing anything cra
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I havent gotten the materials yet for this build so my approach is still up in the air. Im leaning more toward the foam option as it seems like that might be an easier approach. The pistol grip is going to be a bit difficult, I may try the hand turning as I go..not sure yet.
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Just checked out the Zenaq page..pretty interesting. The bamboo work rods look insanely cool.
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You could attempt to make a camo paint on a foam grip. Not sure how feasible it is but might not be a bad alternative. Just when adding the paint I would think to use pigments that dont blend and keep the picking of the colors to a minium while the rod turns.
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I ran 2 threads at the same time with a modified CRB wrapper. I took the middle out and separated it into 2 tensioners to either side of the base. I pulled the threads through diferent paths of the eyes where 1 went through the eye on the slide with the other was on the 3rd stationary eye. It wasnt the most efficient way because I had to keep messing with the tension of the spools. I probably
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I had a thread similar to this. The end result, purchase the right equipment for the job and you wont have a reason to question the purchase. I already made the mistake of attempting to use the wrong stuff for threads..that won't happen again.
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