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Results 1501 - 1530 of 2697
3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Robert,
While you certainly cannot go wrong with Tortsite rings (and subsequent Ti frames) consider the Alconite equivalents with Fuji’s Corrosion Control finish, SS frames at a fraction of the price; I certainly do and have done so many times = my go-to guides!
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Without the luxury of having Ralph O’Quinn to consult, what makes CP oblivious to (silicone) contamination versus simple epoxy application over a decal? Many of you coat decals with CP prior to the epoxy application to avoid the dreaded contamination effect where the epoxy is repealed over the surface of the decal. How can a water based acrylic “seal” the surface when silicone and water notoriou
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Eric,
The Fuji KBs and KTs are very stout for such tiny guides with a minimal weight due to the open area between the legs. If you are encountering difficulty by filling the gap between the legs, consider backing off, WAY BACK, on the epoxy application.
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Michael,
Good luck receiving a definitive answer. Tip tops are probably the most common rod repair but with the multitude of ring sizes compounded with the varying tube sizes, it may be unlikely to ever have the appropriate one in stock. Obviously, the best array of rod repair items would be that gained from years in the business.
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
It is fairly safe to say the “Spine VS Straightest Axis” controversy will remain rod building’s most frequent and heated topics; it has been brought up more than any other topic since I joined over 5 years ago. Of the three pages of previous replies, I like Roger Wilson’s the best = build the rod way you want!!! In the grand scheme of things, it simply boils down to preference as there is a multi
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Jim,
Spencer is correct; one cannot practically produce their own media. Another point to consider is the air pressure used. I strongly suggest purchasing a blasting setup with adjustable air pressure or purchase an additional pressure regulator; different air pressures will produce different results.
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Jim,
With the little experience I have with media-blasting, I would suggest using walnut (or pecan) shells. Glass beads are fairly aggressive and will probably leave a rougher finish, although you may prefer that. As with many rod building operations, test, test and test again prior to attacking the actual part. Hopefully others more qualified will answer to assist you further.
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Michael;
I certainly do not see a problem with using charcoal dust; it could be considered poor-man’s-Carbon-fiber and who knows, the epoxy may be stronger than without the additional carbon! Henry Ford was quoted as saying “I don’t care what color my cars are as long as they are black”. Now if you were to find designer-color briquettes, you’d really be on to something!
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
1511. Re: KW guide sizes
Albert,
Anything Norman has to say about Fuji guide trains should be held in the same high esteem as if it were coming directly from Jim or Donny of Anglers Resource! Do not be afraid of using size 5 runners; I was at first thinking they were just too dang small. Yes, those tiny things are a PITA to wrap but they produce a very nice guide train. As for excluding the KBs, I run as many KBs as the
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Michael,
I agree with Norman and quite often tint finish epoxy to produce a very small trim ring. While I do not bother with allowing the pigment to settle and then remove the vehicle floating on top, it sounds to be a good idea. The tiny bottles of Testers do not take-up much room, come in a multitude of colors (even metallic) and won’t break the bank. Whatever is chosen for the pigment, make s
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
1513. Re: KW guide sizes
Albert,
Joe offered very good advice; I agree with his statements. A 4000 series reel is starting to get fairly tall and the KWs are too short unless using a monster ring; better to go with a KL-H reduction train followed by 2-3 KBs and then KTs out to the top. Built to KR Concept specs, the rod will be considerably lighter, cast exceptionally well and the guides will be more than strong enough
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
I feel odd inquiring where Herb Canter is. While Herb was only concerned with surf fishing, he offered A LOT of advice, whether correct or not. Sorry Tracey, I am not qualified to answer your question.
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Alex,
There may be another, overlooked issue causing your thread (not) climbing woes. No matter how shallow and sharp you grind the taper on the foot, if the bottom is not flat there will be a gap between the tip of the foot and the blank. Also, during manufacture, the tip of the foot is deburred, on both the top and bottom, which inherently leaves a slight radius on the bottom of the tip. I hav
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Ben,
There is a vast difference between being misled verses being slow-witted; you were simply misled.
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Ben,
Some definitions are definitely due and apparently required here. Whether E or S glass, both are GLASS, extremely similar to the glass in your home or storefronts but in fiber form rather than sheets. There are those who say E stands for Electrical and S stands for Structural but I have never found supporting evidence of such being the case. In no way, shape or form does the S stand for See
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Ben,
You did misunderstand; S glass is a modified version of E glass with a higher modules and hence is stiffer (more sensitive) which in turn requires less material (lighter). But, being stiffer (more brittle), it is ultimately not as tough as the original E glass. Even S glass falls short of CF with respect to modules and the inherent stiffness, sensitivity and being able to produce a lighter
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Any business concerned with quality customer service and their patrons should inform the purchaser if the delivery-time will take longer than 5 days at the time the order is placed; if nothing else, it is just plain common courtesy. The purchaser then has the option to either wait or cancel the order to avoid disgruntled customers of their own. Three weeks seems excessive to me but if known at th
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
David,
I will certainly be the odd-man-out here. I absolutely love the vintage FG Conolon blanks I have access to; they increase the Fish-Fighting-Fun-Factor more than any other rods I have used, are gorgeous after a coat of PG, all while owning and fishing a piece of fishing rod history. While most of the limited, remaining stock make for great light and ultralight rods, there are a few heavier
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
1522. Re: Hardy 10.10
Dwayne,
Short of employing an automotive body/ paint shop to spray what would arguably be THE best blank finish (catalyzed urethane), save your time, money and consternation by using the next-best thing and what most builders use = U40 PermaGloss. It is a moisture-curing urethane, produces an extremely thin coating, dries exceptionally quickly and is pretty dang durable. Simply use a fine-cell c
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
1523. Re: Rod building area
Gary,
As many others, I perform all rod building operations in the garage; it would be nice to be able to separate the dirty from the clean work but I do not have the luxury. I just have to thoroughly clean up prior to wrapping and finishing. Michael Ward built a very nice, high-mounted curing cabinet but unfortunately, I do not have any wall space available. My solution was to fabricate the cur
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
1524. Re: Guides
John,
You will find vast opinions based on fact, brand loyalty and everything else in between concerning which guides are the best. In my opinion, anyone would be very hard pressed to find anything better than Fuji products as they have the vast resources and commitment to develop new products and even entire working concepts against which other manufactures measure themselves. Fuji’s KR Concep
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
1525. Re: Cork sealer
Robert,
While all the above suggest U-40 Cork Seal, an alternative is Birchwood Casey’s Tru Oil. As the name implies, U-40 Cork Seal was designed for cork whereas Tru Oil was designed for wood. When you get right down to it, cork is a wood product, just the bark and not the heart-wood. All said, I prefer Cork seal for cork and Tru Oil for wood, go figure.
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
1527. Re: Humidity
For those interested, Amine Blush only occurs during the curing cycle, not after cured. It results in a thin, sticky, waxy film on the surface yet is quite clear. On the other hand, many CURED epoxies will develop a milky appearance on the surface if left in contact with water but will usually clear-up if allowed to thoroughly dry-out = dry warmth.
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
1528. Re: Humidity
Eric,
I think it was Ralph O’Quinn who researched Amine Blush and determined the phenomenon was caused by precise ratio amounts of both humidity (moisture) and CO2 in the atmosphere. Moisture alone will not necessarily increase the chances of Amine Blush.
Most thread finish epoxies must have been formulated to minimize or eliminate AB as evidenced by the extremely rare cases reported. Polyeste
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Thank you for the continuing replies.
Michael, if you take the liberty to say Tom answered my question in his reply then I’ll take the liberty to say his reply supports direct contact with the blank is more sensitive than foam core grips and seat inserts.
I think Steve is on the same page as me by suggesting “… is to eliminate the need for arbors altogether…” However, I think my finger tips are
Forum: rodboard 3 years ago
Mark Talmo
Thank you to those contributing additional comments.
Joe, I truly appreciate you taking the time to reply with such a knowledgeable, in-depth and understandable explanation. The most important issues you mentioned dealt with moment of inertia and modules of the material; in this case we want the smallest moment of inertia (highest stiffness to weight ratio) and the highest modules (density). Whi
Forum: rodboard |