Scott, I certainly agree with Spencer and Tom that 16lb is overkill and 8lb will be more than adequate. Heck, 3lb foam is more than enough as the major impact strength comes from the (CF) skin. USC is a trusted, reliable source and has served the composite industry for many years. My question is what exactly are you attempting to gain by pouring your own arbors within the reel seat or CF tube?
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Robert, From your description, I do not know exactly where the break is on the reel. Alex is probably correct but then, you don’t have anything to lose at this point. Is it possible to hold the broken pieces together enough to drill through both and and insert “splint” of .125in diameter brass or SS rod? Two splints would probably be required to keep the pieces from rotating around a single spli
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Anything power (cut-off wheels whether abrasive or toothed) = too fast cutting speed = too much heat = soften / melt the plastic. By hand (hacksaw / jewelers saw) = slow cutting speed = virtually no heat = cleaner cut. Your choice.
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Dennis, Your Texalium tubes are simply FRP = Fiber Reinforced Plastic. Due to the Plastic part of the equation, successfully cutting the tube requires generating as little heat as possible to avoid melting the plastic. Cut-off wheels, whether large or Dremel types, generate too much heat. Use a hacksaw with as fine of a blade as possible (=>32 TPI) with light pressure to minimize splinters. I
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John, While certainly not a veteran such as Norman, it seems to me your best approach would be to save the “SV” guides for repair of COF builds; they were very popular in their day and consequently the need for replacement is almost certain to arise; you have a stock of NLA /NOS guides = use it to your (and customer’s) advantage. Use a modern guide approach such as NGC or KR Concept for your pr
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Michael, Thank you for caring and asking. The answer is yes. Roger Wilson’s “ceiling test” is the first physical, visual representation of a blank’s ACTION I have seen, which firmly established that my previous ASSUMPTIONS of my old Conolons action was INCORRECT. I assumed they were medium to slow action but my CCS measurements showed them to be fast; the ceiling test visually verified they were
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Dan, All the above are very good considerations. While an “island” bench in the middle may solve “...will kill a lot of space in the middle”, you would then need two walkways rather than just one which also kills space. It may also ultimately reduce a lot of floor and wall space. Obviously, a separate room for turning, shaping and sanding is optimum. Although it would be preferred, I do not hav
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Phil and Norman, OK, OK, I may need to stand corrected. But even “a cheap SOB” like me is not willing to risk the clean-up and having to redo wraps over a $10 - $20 bottle of finish. At this time of year, it is difficult for me to imagine anywhere in the US cold enough to crystallize resin, even though I live in LALA Land.
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Tom, Granted and realized, even before your last comment. My original post concerning “action” has simply developed a tangent by others regarding “frequency”. Such tangents are typically accepted, expected and usually appreciated here on your great forum. It is all about learning and I am certainly here to learn. Keep the tangents coming!!!
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Tom, Excuse me but I do not understand the point you are attempting to make. I have not taken / confused any of the replies to my post to suggest “action” is relative to “frequency” or the inverse. The more recent “frequency” posts are simply a tangent from my original “action” post. I think it is safe to say that most are aware the two are basically NOT directly related.
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Jason, I have bottles of ProKote and other finishes, some of which are well over 2 years old and have not experienced either the resin or hardener thickening or coagulating, and I live in hot LALA Land. While the remedies above MAY make your present product usable, why take the chance of spoiling all your time and effort of thread wrapping. Throw it away or at least request a replacement; any re
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Michael, You are absolutely correct and I agree. But Roger’s ceiling test was the first to reveal that my previous ASSUMPTIONS were incorrect. Now I do not wonder if my obtained CCS numbers were/are correct.
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With all due and deserved respect to Dr. Hannerman, I am in total agreement with Michael that the specified amount of weight added to the blank to compute CCS was simply to slow the frequency of the tip down enough to enable the average person to count the oscillations. Can anyone/everyone perform CCS? = Basically yes. Does it work? = Obviously yes. Is it optimum? = Personally, I feel adding an
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Thank you to all for your insightful replies, but especially Roger Wilson. While his “Ceiling Method” may lack the sophistication of CCS in determining the action of a blank, it provided me with the first VISUAL indication of a blank’s action = where the blank INITIALLY starts to bend under load. This initial-bend-point has been the cause of my confusion and compounded only by my habitual over-th
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I almost hesitate to post this in fear of it being associated with a couple of recent posts which may have been considered by many to be nonsensical. Please believe me this is an honest request for information. How is the “action” of a blank actually determined? I am fully aware and accept that slow, medium, fast and extra fast designations are representative of where the blank “initially” start
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Thanks Robert.There is certainly no need to apologize.
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Thanks Tom.
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Tom and Robert, Thank you for the reply. With all due respect, that issue was almost 10 years ago, before I became afflicted with the rod building disease. At the risk of seeming unappreciative, I am more than capable of the prep and application process; I am seeking verification of the product name and a preferred, present vendor.
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Terje, Most likely, you will be turning / sanding the rings on the mandrel after glueing them together. You will find that the stiffer the mandrel is = the better. I have found that thin-wall PTFE (Teflon) tubing over a threaded rod (solid rod is stiffer but more difficult to clamp the grip) provides adequate stiffness while releasing the grip very easily after being shaped and sanded. Determine
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A number of you have offered high praise of a 2-part (urethane?) spray paint in a rattle can. If I remember correctly, the name is Spray Max 2K. Apparently, it can be color-matched to a specific color / formula which is important. The color needed is solid, not metallic and I am hoping it is available as a single-stage paint rather than 2-stage requiring a top coat of clear. Any additional info
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Phil, “How about we…” is certainly not as definite as your earlier remark “... rod tip speed, which is quite easily determined…”. Yet again, please afford us with YOUR intellectual method to measure it and then determine and assign a related number. Of course, “easily” is a relative term and I am surprised you would use such a vague expression. What may be easy for you may be quite difficult, i
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Phil, Request #4 to enlighten all of us as to your procedure to measure and assign a representative number to your targeted “rod speed”. You stated “...rod tip speed, which is quite easily determined…”. There are those of us who might benefit from your astuteness.
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Phillip, You are opening Pandora’s box with your question. It simply boils-down to personal preference but that cannot be determined until one understands and acknowledges precisely what their specific preferences actually are. Foremost is the wrapping direction. The majority of common wrappers operate with the top of the blank turning toward you. I do not like it and prefer the top of the blank
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Phil, Request #3 to enlighten all of us as to your procedure to measure and assign a representative number to your targeted “rod speed”. Please TEACH us rather than merely PREACH to us. We are all here to learn.
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Roger, I did not realize it was sooooo simple?!?!?! Nonetheless, me and certainly others are very interested in how Phil performs the task.
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Thanks, VooDoo.
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Phil, If “...rod tip speed, which is quite easily determined,,,” please inform all of us how you measure it and then determine and assign a related number. We are all here to learn.
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Apparently, the Wave Spin reels were considered more of a brain-flatulence than brain-storm. I purchased one simply out of curiosity, it worked as advertised (often rare), the reel still works fine after 10 years of moderate use, so I suppose I would purchase another if still available. Thanks anyway, Doug!!! I guess any reference to WaveSpin reels is now delegated to the history books.
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Ben, Is that dollar I made back in the 1960s worth any more today?
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As mentioned previously, I dress the ramp of guide feet to produce a cleaner, easier transition for the thread while climbing up the foot which, in turn, also affords a nicer overall appearance of the wrap. That is simply my opinion and will not argue with those who do not see the need. But I also acknowledge, understand and even agree with respected industry professionals such as Jim Ising of A
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