I understand lots of harley stickers can be found online. But I need a specific decal in a specific size. Hence need for a custom one
Forum: rodboard

Anyone know where I can get a custom decal for a blank I'm working on? Its a Harley Davidson themed rod so I wanted to put a Harley logo on there. The folks at DecalConnection wouldn't print it due to trademark issues which is fine but that won't stop me from having this rod turn out the way I originally had planned. If anyone has a contact and could help me out that would be greatly appreciated!
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Thanks for all the replies from everyone. I think proper lubrication was my main issue at first. I also watched a video using the Jim Trelikes method of rubber cement which looked like it required basically no cleanup. Think that'll be what I try next! Thanks again
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So as the title suggests I'm having some trouble sliding EVA grips down the rod blank. Currently I've been using a whole lot of epoxy but that makes a big mess and requires a bit of clean up. I'd have to think theres something else I could use to get the handle down the blank and figured someone on this forum knows what that might be! If you have any suggestions please let me know. Thanks
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7ft is just too short for what I'm used to and what I wanna use it for. I'm going to be throwing spinners with it too in close quarters so would prefer a slightly longer rod than 7ft with a mod-fast action. I'm going to see if I can get a hold of Talon blanks and see if I can get one they sell in there catalog.
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I wouldn't have much of a problem finding a factory rod but they are all spinning so thought I'd tie one up in casting. Bob, I already tied up an MHX P904-2 and an L904-2. The popping blank was a bit too light in the tip and the other blank was much too stiff for what I was looking for so I had to sell them off. Actually still have that L904-2 if anyone wants it!!
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I've already got many 9'+ drift and float rods that I've been twitching with. I do a lot of bass fishing and have learned that a shorter rod is easier on the arm when jigging all day.
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Thank you but a 9ft rod is a bit long for my taste when fishing this technique.
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As the title states I'm looking for a 2-piece blank that I can use to "twitch" jigs or basically just jig for salmon. The ideal specs for such a rod are 7'6"-8' long rated 3/8-3/4oz or 3/8-1oz as the typical jig weight is right around half an oz and the kind of blanks that typically have these specs are popping rods and hotshot blanks. For whatever reason finding a blank with these
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Wouldn't go past 14". If you want more balance add a bit of weight to the butt of the blank. Thats normally what I do with all my steelhead rods.
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Rated 1-4oz? Sounds like a very heavy blank...
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Emailed Jim about the Point Blank, just waiting for a reply. Could someone who has it tell me the specs for it?
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Emailed Jim about the Point Blank, just waiting for a reply. Could someone who has it tell me the specs for it?
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Its true NFC has the worst customer service imaginable. They know it and they don't even care. If I'm not sold on that Liberty blank I'll give it some thought and maybe I'll end up trying the Point Blank. There's enough guys vouching for it so I'm sure its a sweet rod.
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Steve you sure are right in that for whatever reason its hard to come across a moderate flipping blank. I am only intrigued by the Liberty because I read that it actually fishes like a moderate rod, but I'll have no clue really until I call them tomorrow. Also, the Point Blank flipping stick being recommended is listed as having a fast action, if I'm looking at the right blank that is. Listed
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Thanks for the feedback so far guys! That Point Blank surely looks like a great blank and after checking the specs its perfect for what I'm looking for. Only problem for me is that I think its a bit out of my budget for the build I'm planning. My bass rods seem to get beat up more than others which is why I tend to be a bit more frugal with the money I put into them. I'd hate to build up a ni
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Tired of looking for a manufacturer that makes a flipping rod that doesn't boast broomstick-like qualities so I've decided to tie one up myself. I live up in the Pacific Northwest and the bass we have are smaller and the cover isn't as nasty as other places. The first flipping rod I built was an MHX FS904 which was their lightest flipping blank but still proved to be too stiff for the applicat
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They have the worst customer service I've ever seen. Their voicemail is full at the moment likely from all the customers who have called to leave complains about their crummy service. I literally just got done sending them a lengthy email looking for an update on my latest order because I can't get them to answer my phone calls... Really a shame that a company with such a quality product can do s
Forum: rodboard

Adam, the rating of the rod is 100-200g with PE5-10 and its more of a moderate action. I like the idea of dropping down my first guide from the 40 to a 30. I don't have a reel yet and doubt it will be the Dogfight due to the cost so my reel will likely have a bit smaller spool diameter. But since Herb thinks the 30 would work fine with the Dogfight, it should work just as well for whatever ree
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See this is glad I asked! I've haven't build many spinning rods so guide sizes past 12 seem foreign to me. I plan on using 80lb braid joined with 150lb leader via the FG knot. The size of fish will depend on whatever I'm fortunate enough to hook! I'll be using this rod to stay busy when going on trips to Hawaii and such. The reel will be either a 6500 or 8000 size Daiwa Spinning reel. As fo
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Alright I'm stepping a bit out of my realm here having only ever built freshwater rods as I want to build a GT rod for popping. I'm new to GT fishing in general and the first rod I had was the Black Hole 7'6" Nano Popping rod. Now while I liked everything about that rod I felt it was a bit too short to be chucking poppers from the rocks. So rather than spending half a grand I figured I'd sav
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I actually have a few Edge rods and like those seats but I was referring to the ones with the wood or cork inserts. I will look to email that guy and see if he can help me out, thank you!
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Anyone know where I could get parts for one of these reel seats for a casting build? I was looking to make a build with this reel seat like on the old Loomis IMX Steelhead rods but to my knowledge they're discontinued and not available anywhere online. Figured somebody on here might know a guy...
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Well sadly I'm a long ways from making my own handles... So thats pretty rough! I must say tho the super grade cork from Batson is as good as I could ever want, I was just wondering if there was anything else comparable.
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Wondering who sells the best cork handles around 14" for a steelhead rod. I have used the Batson handles and while the quality is good in the super grade handles it is still far more expensive than the super grade handles I see on Mudhole. So I guess I'm wondering if the handles of Mudhole are of very high quality as well. I have always thought Loomis had the nicest handles like on their
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Nick I just tried your method but I couldn't get all of the epoxy off to where the blank is totally clean. I've been using alcohol and the popsicle stick but there are still very thin streaks that I'll have to resort to sanding in order to clean it completely. However I will say that this is a great method overall. I can't really imagine any method that could remove all the epoxy without having t
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Thanks I'll take my time and give that a shot.
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I know I wouldn't have a problem removing the guides, seeing as I could just wrap over them with a bit more thread like what was mentioned above. My main concern would be where the decal is by the hook keeper. Could I successfully remove the epoxy in that area without messing up the exposed blank?
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I'm not sure honestly. I finished the rod a couple months ago but the haziness is bothering me, I'd like the trim wraps to pop out more like my other rods which is why I'm considering stripping it. In addition, there are lots of very tiny bubbles within the epoxy over the decal which I'd clearly rather not have.
Forum: rodboard

So I invested quite a bit of money in an XST1264 build and after finishing it with epoxy it came out looking hazy. Not as clear as whats on my other rods so I know I must have messed up when mixing it. I put a lot of work into this rod and I'd like to re-wrap it. Is this a reasonable solution? Wondering if this is possible without messing up the condition of the blank. I've tried in the past with
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