I access this site on my phone. Now I don't know if it would make a difference but when the site was only displaying the sticky pages I was on wifi. So I switched to my LTE through my cell phone carrier and refreshed the page and the same thing happened. I thought it was my browser so I fully exited out of the application. And retried it. Same thing happened. I decided to let it wait a couple hou
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Yeah, that same thing happened to me.
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If he uses a fighting belt get him a gimbal, if not get him a rubber butt cap. It makes reef fishing a lot better. My advice is to ask him what pound line he uses and the length of the rods he uses. I know calstar and seeker makes a wide variety of stand up rods, make sure you go with an aluminum reel seat but for a stand up rod I wouldn't go with an aluminum butt. You can use a roller tip and/or
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Donald, I think you meant to address that to Shawn
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I honestly like watching the longer videos, but that's a personal preference I guess. But you'll quickly learn almost any custom built rod feels better than a factory built rod. But the good thing with having that long of a beard is when you run out of buck tail for tying flies you can just trim off your own beard... Lol. But check out some of the sponsors to the left, many of them have great rod
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You did a great job on the video! As for fixing the epoxy you can do a search on YouTube of Docski's channel. He has some great instructions covering almost everything about rod building. You'll probably end up buying actual reamers and an actual rod wrapping stand. Since you didn't show how you applied your epoxy I'm guessing you turned it by hand. Once you pick up a dryer motor you can turn it
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With prokote I normally put it on before I go to sleep with the temp. set at 70. In the morning it will be tacky and I give it the whole day to help cure just to be safe.
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I believe PNG stands for Papua New Guinea
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Yes you can cut and even sand down the imperfections, just be careful to not cut into the tread wraps or blank. But apply another coat of epoxy and you won't even notice that there was ever an imperfection.
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Sorry, I live in Florida and don't do much ice fishing LOL, I didn't notice there was a difference, I'm just trying to help a fellow rod builder out.
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Not sure about the snow camo but what about this blank?
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This should help you and it's $28.95 for a year
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Thank you ken, that makes total sense, I'll check out that website.
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Okay, I was just curious why some blanks just had two different ratings for braid and for mono. Like these point blank blanks from get bit
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Okay, I just thought it was kinda odd that some manufactors would put a braided line rating and a mono/flouro line rating with the blank
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I've noticed how some blanks have a higher line rating for braid then they do for mono/flouro. Does anyone know why? I'm just curious for the reasoning. Is it because braid doesn't stretch? Or is it the fact that braid is a thinner line? Can you use like 15lb braid safely with any rod that is specified for up to 14lb's. Any info or ideas why will be greatly appreciated.
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I would pick up some roller stands just to be safe, plus they are pretty cheap anyways
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Make sure you don't pull the thread through next to the guide foot, because the guide foot lifts the threads off the blank a tad bit there so the threads can apply as much pressure
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Thanks guys, I live down in Florida so most fly rods down here are graphite, but I may be taking a trip up to Montana this summer so I was thinking about making a fly rod when I go. I've researched quite a bit on bamboo fly rods but I just didn't know if the blanks came with a ferrule.
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Do the blanks come with ferrules already installed? Sorry for the stupid question, I've just never ordered a bamboo blank before
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Tape them up as the measurements said so and then do a static distribution test, if you think you need another then move some guides around and add another
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I just finished a rod for the same exact purpose yesterday except I would want to use some topwater baits with it too. I did some research and I chose the mhx hm-mb843. And I really like it so far, I haven't got the chance to fish it yet but it feels like it would do the job superbly. I paired it with a penn clash 3000 and 15lb power pro super slick and it casts extremely well with a half ounce w
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David, It's alright, but now that I see how you were thinking that would be a pretty cool idea with the thread as the bushings on an exposed reel seat, I may try it on a dowel first and if I like it I might use it like that. It's weird how a misconception might add to a really cool idea.
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Check these out. Sorry for the bad quality, had to take the pictures with my phone
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David, I think I might've came off wrong, you would epoxy the reel seat with whatever arbor you want (foam, polyurethane, masking tape, etc...) and then shape the epoxy on the side of the blank as a hill and wait for it to cure. After it cures with the reel seat on you can wrap on top of it with black thread, so there wouldn't be a gap. I've done it once before, I'll upload a picture on the pictu
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David, I think I might've came off wrong, you would epoxy the reel seat with whatever arbor you want (foam, polyurethane, masking tape, etc...) and then shape the epoxy on the side of the blank as a hill and wait for it to cure. After it cures with the reel seat on you can wrap on top of it with black thread, so there wouldn't be a gap. I've done it once before, I'll upload a picture on the pictu
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David, I've seen people leave a hill of epoxy going to the reel seat and then just wrapping on top of it with a black thread so it's hard to see if you need to wrap on top of a couple threads in an odd way. Then applying thread finish on top of that like normal. This will leave no gap, but It is a lot easier just buying an exposed reel seat, I normally don't ream out the exposed real seat, inste
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If it's really thin layer then I wouldn't sand it down at all before applying another layer. But if it's thick enough I'd sand it down and apply another layer. It's really a judgement call if you think you have enough epoxy to work with so you don't sand too far to mess up the blank or decal.
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When you try sanding it down it will look really bad and you won't be able to see the wrap underneath but once you put more thread finish on it will clear up and won't be noticeable
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I forgot to mention that I used color treated nylon prowrap too
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