Has anyone over coated threads on a fishing rod with the above coatings. Both would seem to have enough toughness to protect the threads and spar varnish has I've protection.
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I recently read an article that said epoxy can't penetrate through color fast thread thus making the guide connection weaker and if so is there a way to use color fast thread and get a strong bond for the guide. I like to use color on the rods to stand out and non-cft thread generally gets darker and somewhat translucent.
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I just built a Batson 8'6" revelation fly rod and I plan to bass fish with it oh and it's a 6wt . What would be a good line for this rod. I'll be using poppers and streamers mainly. Thanks in advance.
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Is there a difference between the actions/ the efficiency of the cast of multi piece fly rods. one piece is probably best all things considered but not easy to transport. It seems multi piece rods would a bit less efficient in a number of areas.
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Hello Eric Hanson. I'll try to give you a clearer picture of the kind of fishing I do. Most of the fishing I do is on a lake and rivers. I have a liking for small trout streams but trout streams seem to be at times more time consuming to find where lakes and rivers are more accessible or easier to get to. Bass and pan fish are fished for more often than not here in Michigan. I am retired and
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I am currently searching for a 9/10' fly rod for bass,steelhead and some salt water fishing. A stiff fast action type seems to be the obvious choice. I've steered clear of stiff rods because of the suggestion that stiff rods quickly point out the mistakes that I make casting moderate and glass rods. Now recently got a lesson fly casting and the my instructor said that I cast very well on small
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Looking for low rpm 120 volt with a shaft long enough to make home made drying rack .
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I'm looking for mildrum mid sized boat guides. I'm been told they are no longer made. I have some that have an i.d. of 5/16 dia but I would like to find some larger diameters.
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thanks guys. I just have this need to do as much of the build as I can. I'm having such a great time building fly rods that it doesn't bother much not to fish. So far the rods that I have sold everyone is well satisfied. There isn't a day that goes by that I don't learn something new .
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I made a set of guide forming tools and they turned out pretty well but the wire was 1/16 dia. Iwould like to find a source for wire smaller in dia. welding shops have rolls of stainless wire but way more than I will ever use.
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Has anyone made there own snake guides and do you have pics and directions?
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How do you tell the sizes of guides and or strippers based on what is listed in the guide charts.
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Looking for blanks for bass/pike . Any suggestion?
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What is a good length and weight fly rod for bass fishing with poppers. Also the action too. What part does tip flex play.
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Apology accepted Phil. When I'm trying to find out something or learn about something I'm the negative comments are the thing I remember. I haven"t fished in 35 years so I'm playing catch up. Rod building that just got into last august has been a blast so far. Guide sizing on any weight rod is a bit of a challenge. I tend at this time to use some what larger guide than needed but am t
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All I asked was to read about the positive side of furled leaders. Please keep the SNIDE comments to those who are prone to say them to yourselves. I do appreciate the positive comments feom everybody else.
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To understand you better, you don't use a different size piece of mono and then the lighter tippet after the furled leader.
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I ve heard a few comments about why not to use them. Anyone out there used them with success. Ive tried one with a bit of success but set up is a bit confusing. the fly lands last hence the confusion. Do you put tippet on the end of the leader or what.
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Norman Mailer: The boat guides I am refering to are no longer made . The mid sized guides are in between wire guides and the boat guides sold today. the thickness of the mid sized guide ring is approximately in between the wire and the much thicker boat guide made today. I have found 5 with a5/16 dia. and i'm looking for larger sizes. There is no ceramic or carbide in the guide just stainles
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The line slap is gone. I changede all the guides and stripper and added one wire guide. The line slap occured between the stripper and the first wire guide and then moved the stripper back towards the reel and added the wire guide in front of tha slap went away. Also, I'm looking for medium sized boat guides . I have a few with 5/16 id but am looking for id's up 3/4 " if anyone has some
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I used wire snake guides and a boat guide stripper(10.6mm i.d.0. No ring guides. Im going to drop down in size to a #3 and add 1 more guide to the rod near where slap is occuring near the the stripper and reduce the size of the stripper. I.d. of stripper is 5/16(7.9mm)". Slap occurs between the stripper and the next guide. I'll tape them on first then check it out first.
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Thank you for taking time to respond Don. Then confusing thing is nfor me at least is #1/0 snake guides. 2,3,4 snake guides I understand when #1/0 is mentioned i'm confused a bit. I ordered some 3/0 guides thinking they were good for a flyrod but they were so small they are are unusable onany flyrod. Ice fishing rods maaaaybeee.. Need some sort explination about the numbering system.
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I just built two fly rods from the same maker and one rod was fine,no slap. I built the other one and I used Mudholes' guide spacing chart on both rods and got line slap on the second rod. the rod is 8'6" 4wgt. the guides I used are #5 and a boat guide stripper and a large rip top. My reasoning comes from posts and articles online concerning knots and loops that are us
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I recently used flexcoat hi-build with UV and was dissappointed at how fast it cured in the bowl. I use a pop can bottom and as carefully as I can mix the epoxy. The air bubbles appeared to be gone so I proceeded to coat the threads. When cure time was up every guide had tiny air bubbles..The bubbles were so small I didn"t see them when applied to the threads. My main complaint was how f
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Actually Herb I bid on the rod and really had no plan as what I was going to do with it. I knew it was lite for a spey rod. I just decided to bid on it and I was sure I would get it and I did. I thought I could one hand it but the rod would tire me out fairly soon. Live and learn. Maybe the best thing to do is to sell it and get a blank 9/10 ft.
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Feedback so far has been very educational. Based on what has been said I will build it up as it is and @#$%& it. I learned alot from all the posts. Thanks
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How's about the 9ft option . Leave the original butt section off and go with that. I don't want to through the balance or the way the original 12ft rod was designed for.
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I have a 12ft fly rod blank and would like to make it a 10ft rod. The query is how much would I have to cut off without significantly changing the action. Right now it is a 2/3wgt. Granted it would be better to remove the current butt section and go with a 9ft which is also possible.
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The deeper I get into rod building the more I wonder why standard sizes aren't used. As an example, reel seats. I.d.'s .445 or o.d's .660. How come standard sizes such as .625 or .750 aren't used. It seems life would be easier for the builder.
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i forgot to mention that I thinned some elmers glue with water and tried that(shot in the dark) and it seemed only darken the thread the same as the poly. I applied epoxy to and color stayed the same when treated first with the poly and glue.
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