XCEL was what they called the old RX8 blanks back when Cascade Composites was still making them. I have a fly rod in the 905-3 configuration. I posted the CC data on that web site; but if I remember correctly it has an AA around 67 and an ERN slightly above 6, so it is a fairly fast 5/6 wt. I believe the XCEL was around 51 million modulus. If you have an opportunity to pick one up at a good p
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Ditto. Bob always gives me tons of helpful advice. I haven't asked him about a blank or a project I was considering that he didn't give me the answers I needed and potential pitfalls I hadn't thought of.
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We'll do!
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Maybe I wasn't clear. I'm talking about using a single foot ceramic guide for a tip, but instead of wrapping it on, using the permaglos "threadless wrap" to hold it on.
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I am guessing this would make the most obsessively light tip tip possilble, but would it hold up?
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I know this is probably covered in a RM issue that I don't have, and which I will probably try to pick up in High Point; but how do you align the guides before the epoxy cures when using a threadless wrap? Do you use rubber bands to be able to adjust and hold them, then cut the bands off after the epoxy has dried? If so, how do you avoid a "smear" of epoxy when you have moved the guid
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10# braid is 4~6# mono diameter, plus it doesn't form the "coils" that mono does, so I think a BYAG20 is plenty big given that it gives you the proper line path. I have two rods that I use with a Sahara 2000 and 10lb fireline and this is my observation on both: Forecast SH1084, BVS3 in 25 or 30 (can't remember which), 16, 10, then BFLG7s to tip. I love the rod, but I used too many
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I've heard that the IST993 by Rainshadow is also a fast, light rod. Mudhole also has some Lamiglas mag-taper steelhead blanks on clearance. Those look really cool. There are also some fast action popping rod's from Lami in that mix. Tom is right though - you don't need slow to throw light; you need light tip to throw light.
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Don't use the fly rod blank as it's too slow to be a casting rocket, though it's sweet for tossing stuff out close in the suds. I did something like this with a Forecast SH1084 and a Shimano Sahara 2000 a couple of years ago and I love it. If you want the fastest, and I assume farthest casting, thing possible, look at the Rainshadow RX8 line of steelhead rods. I would also set it up NC using
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That makes sense. Thanks.
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What does "swaged" mean and how to you do that? I follow all the other steps.
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Is Batson making the low profile fly type in the small sizes, or is it just the "match" guides.
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If 15lb mono is around 0.35mm, then will 3.5mm running guides (never seen one, but I assume the opening is at least 2mm) work okay? Or does the line need a little room to move around in the guide?
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Is the single foot ceramic wrapped on as a tip really worth it with regard to weight savings? What about durability?
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Anybody going to have the really small (3.5 or 4) size alconites or sics?
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Will I notice much difference in the following areas: 1 - weight; 2 - size; 3 - translucense w/o CP? The size difference looks small on paper, but I've never actually held the silk in my hand.
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How far up a 9ft blank does the twill come?
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I'll look for them in High Point; and it sounds like they'll be hard to miss.
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I can't find a picture to be able to tell what they look like.
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I've also used the "black chrome" and they've worked great. I think they only come in the H ring, but that is plenty hard for the 10lb braid I use. I suppose the stainless frame with zirconia ring would be a step up, but I haven't personally felt the need. I do rinse mine down at the end of each day though.
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Schneider's Rod Shop shows some discontinued Rainshadow RX8 9' 2pc 3 weights on sale. I suspect it's a great value if 2pc will work for you. Look under the "Hot Specials" section.
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Mark, any problems with brush marks?
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I would check The Weather Channel or the NOAA web site before striking out in a Kayak, and then I would use a graphite rod - :).
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I'm building a F662-4 and will use PG for finish in order to stay light. Can I use PG over the self adhesive label that came with the rod, or will the solvent in the PG make that a problem? Also, are brush strokes an issue when using PG to cover a long section like that?
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I have a fly rod I love that has a black aluminum seat, but for a "classic" look I would go with nickle silver color (you can get aluminum with that finish and it is less $$ than real NS). On a fly rod, I would also use "A" thread and finish the wraps with Permagloss to keep the weight down. Other than that, I'm sure folks here will have lots of suggestions on which colors w
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So is it like a smaller version of a "live bait" rod?
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Any thoughts on these? I'm considering them for wade fishing at the beach, in the inlets from the boat and off the bank for Largemouth at the pond.
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I'm still rather new to inshore fishing and I've never used a "popping rod". I would love to know a little more about the actions of these blanks as well as what they tend to be good for. I tend to do most of my non-fly fishing in ponds for bass, in lakes for crappie and in the surf and inlets at the beach.
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The photo login is a separate animal. I got stumped on that myself a while back until TK cleared me up.
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Like Steve says, many of us can't see it. However, if you can describe what you are looking for, I can tell you how I have make them myself; and I'm a novice guy with very little special equipment to work with so I feel sure you can make pretty much whatever you want.
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