You mean the blank finish? The urethane won't hold up?
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So boiling water is completely safe as far as the blank goes?
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Just wondering where the resin in a graphite blank begins to have a problem?
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This is a DPSM on poly arbor on Matrix blank with EVA grips. Can I immerse directly in boiling water? What components will be lost in the process, assuming the glue lets go?
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Make sure you go under the guide foot then loop back over - like pulling back on the stick of an airplane. If you go over then back under, the thread leaves a gap underneath that doesn't look right.
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I think I'm going to leave it as is for now, try it out and see how it actually works fishing. It will be no harder to go back and cut it off later and redo if I want to. Raymond, this is on the blank you swapped me!
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Will the hot water really do it? I used a slow-set epoxy so I am guessing this is really on there - not Rod Bond; got it at Ace Hardware, came in two separate tubes, touts a 60-minute set time.
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Been putting together a cool spinning rod and planning to use downlocking seat to minimize handle - split grip with minimal EVA for cosmetics with hand accomodated fully by the seat itself. Had everything perfect - glued arbor, reamed to fit, turned EVA down to exactly what I wanted - then glued the seat on backwards! I noticed it long after the epoxy had set. It will work fine but the rear gr
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I have a several year old AllStar BAST845MC-3 that seems awfully fast to me. How would this compare to the hotshot, mag-light or other extra fast tapers from Loomis, Batson, etc? Just curious.
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Another factor for me, if the rod is a more moderate action, is having the first guide low enough to keep the butt of the rod in the fight when I have a good fish on. I built one lighter rod where I put the first guide on the close side because the rod bent so far down. Have any of you wrestled with that "trade off"?
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Doesn't very small diameter and limp line also require less ring diameter? For instance, won't 10# Stealth or 4lb Trilene XL work with smaller guides than say 10lb Trilene XT?
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Assuming diligent care of the rod, how heavy a line would you use w/ the "match" guides?
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I can find no difference in durability and use almost all the rods I build in saltwater as well as fresh. I always flush everything well after each use, but I have never had a corrosion/durability problem with any component - seat, grip, guides, etc. I use Fuji and Batson stuff, take care of it, and I have never had a problem.
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Just wondering when you would NOT use them.
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Olaf, That's awefully good English for someone not familiar with English! Way better than my Deutch!
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There is no functional difference that I can tell and I have both. I have actually gone to the "economy" seats exclusively because they cost less and are also availalbe in gunsmoke.
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"I saw Ralph Oquinn do it with Rod Bond in Charlotte using his finger to shape it." But doesn't he have the ability to reproduce the statues of Phidias using nothing more than Rod Bond and his finger?
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I should add that this spinning seat will be downlocking, so my hand pretty-much comes to the front (threaded) end of the seat. The fore grip will be purely cosmetic; my hand may never touch it.
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I am currently doing both casting and spinning rods where I am considering no fore grip. On the spinning rod in particular (size 18 seat and .40 blank diameter) the difference is diameter is large enough that I am looking for ideas in how to step that down from seat to blank - minimal bulk but something more aesthetic than doing nothing at all. Any ideas?
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Raymond, are you trying to horse-trade that blank?! Terje, have you thought about a heavy fast action fly blank? How much is casting distance an issue?
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I'm doing one right now for a 4 year old. I would definitel go spincast - no problem with loose line lay and multiple loops peeling off like you have on a spinning reel. I am using the SPG723 but imagine the 722 would be good to for the way kids usually fish. I'll spiral wrap this one as well.
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Mike, I lost your email but got the butt caps you sent and they are exactly what I need. Thanks again. Marty
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I'm thinking about the holoshimmer and similar metallics. I think I remember looking at them one tiem and them being flat or ribbon-like.
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I was wondering how sulky works for inlays, given that it is flatter than something like Gudebrod nylon. How would it work for multiple inlays with HT metallic as the main thread? This is for a little girl's rod and she likes "beautiful colors".
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I'm a real neophyte compared to most of the people on this board, so I say this respectfully, but I don't think the wrap is to protect it from the concrete. I suppose it would provide some protection if the rod hit sideways (parallel to the ground), but I would be really careful to avoid that kind of a drop. Also, on the really heavy surf sticks that are throwing a lot of weight, particularly i
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I built all my heavier surf rods before I heard the "2x the opening" rule, so they are all about the length of the ferrul overlap. On heavy rods like surf rods, however, I doubt the weight difference is that significant (as in, say, fly rods for trout) and I usually like the look of it being similar to the length of the guide wraps nearest to it. Just my opinion.
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I like the look and am curious about using for the main wrap, not just trim wraps.
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My "tech-lite" two cents would be, yes, the lure pulls the line; but line path might effect the amount of resistance to that pull. Practically, except for long range surf stuff, I don't know if I'll ever use a non-spiral wrap again. I used my first on a light bait rod this past summer and love it. I noticed no difference in casting; although I did laugh when I looked over at an older
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I have been looking for 1 1/2 years now for a butt cap that will match the TiC colored hook keep on a fly rod I built. I just need the cap, not any of the other hardware. Any suggestions?
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What about one of the SJ700 or SJ720 configurations from Lamiglas, Shikari or Loomis? Sounds exactly like what you're looking for.
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