Richard, You have come to the right place to ask questions. I've been building rods for a long time and I still come here seeking the advice of others. You will find everyone here willing to give you the best advice they have and you will frequently find several different ways to accomplish the same thing.
Forum: rodboard

I did my first attempt at marbling. I like the looks of the color scheme but have a problem with it drying. After 24 hours it is still tacky. What is the likely culprit and what can be done with it? Do I have to remove it and reapply or is there something a little less daunting?
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Rodgeeks makes an excellent product.
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It just happens far too often.
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Amen Billy. We've all suffered disappointments and endured our own shortcomings. I've had to walk away many times after falling short of my own expectations but I did better the next time...or the time after. @#$%&, I still make mistakes. But, as with any other love, this is not about guarantees...it's about the pleasure we derive from it.
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Ryan, You did the right thing by posting here. Lots of good advice. First, you can buy kits from the major suppliers listed on the left side in the sponsor column. Many also have tutorial videos on their sight to get you started. Youtube has a large selection of videos as well.
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Thanks Tom, I only have one and it is the first...hopefully the last. Now, to find the source of contamination.
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What exactly causes fish eyes on rod finish?
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I got three of them at the Expo this year. I don't make a lot of rods a year, probably less than 70. My other reamers were constantly having contact problems with the epoxy loosing grip due to the heat buildup and I found myself either replacing or repairing them. Having to stop a project in the middle so I could repair the reamer was just too frustrating. So, I took the jump and got the ulti
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I have used A and D together in a wrap. Most of the cases were A utilized as the wrap and the D as the trim. The vast majority of the wraps are completed using nothing but A throughout. It is a trial and error process; some I liked and some got scrapped.
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They've been great with me as well.
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Enjoyed it immensely.
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And here I thought I was the only one to use my rod finish for other repairs. Most notably, the sole of my sneakers and work boots are holding fast and comfortable for more than a year now.
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Fly tying and rod making; a formula for insanity. But at least we are happy in our delirium.
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Thanks Buzz, Jay, Randy and Roger. I have a good idea of where to begin. You've been a big help.
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I have a request from a friend who wants a 38" MH conventional ice fishing rod with a sensitive tip for lake trout. (His words, not mine) Any idea on how to proceed? I live in Florida and haven't built many ice fishing rods. Any help would be appreciated.
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I was in the same boat as you. Wanted to shape cork but was unhappy with my wrapping lathe. I got the drill mount from Flex coat and loved it. I still use it for a lot of things even though I have a regular lathe.
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I've used Gudebrod, Pro Wrap, Fuji, Fishhawk, Pac Bay, and a few others. The only one I truly didn't like was Pac Bay. I still believe Gudebrod to be the best but supplies are vanishing.
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I believe the problem stems from the elastic nature of the thread. I used the same thread as an underwrap on the butt with no problems. The contact with the blank is good as well. The problem areas are between the top of the guide foot and when the thread meets the blank (In the tube). And never in the same place twice. I believe the tension on the thread is consistent against the blank but w
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I've put Pac Bay nylon peach colored thread on the guidesof my recent build. I'm using size A thread and applied three coats of CP. Despite this I'm getting significant spots where the thread is completely dark, thereby ruining the wrap. I noticed the thread has a significant stretch when wrapping, more than any other I've ever used. I've cut the base first guide wrap off twice and re wrapped
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Always top notch
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In the black frame I need; 3 of 25mm, 3 of 16mm, 8 of the 12mm, and 10 of the 10mm. In the Polished frame I need; 1 of the 30mm, 1 of the 20mm, 1 of the 16mm, 6 of the 12mm, 8 of the 10mm.
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Anybody know where I can find single foot Fuji hardloy guides? I need both polished and black frames to finish a couple rods. Thanks.
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Thanks Tom, I made the suggestion to the client but he was insistent on the hook keeper placement.
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I'm building a Rodgeeks C2SW76MHF (7'-6") and I'm using BTRLS guides. Client wanted two features built in to the rod other than color scheme. 1st, a 25mm base guide, so I went with that even though I recommended a 30. 2nd, he wanted the hook keeper installed on the left side of the rod facing upwards. He is casting a Penn 550 SS with 12-20lbs test. My problem is line slap. The line is
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I got into this field by reading Dale Clemens' book over 30 years ago. Then I ordered from his catalog and did the best I could. My first few rods were fishable but lacked true quality, looking more homemade than custom. I have two of the three left and consider them treasures, despite their obvious shortfalls. Today's novice has an entire world of information to them. This forum is invaluab
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Strangely enough, I've had the same request two times before. I did exactly what Tom suggested. The customer was happy and the rods are still in good shape.
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I appreciate everyone's input to my question. It seems everyone has hit on something I was doing wrong or could do better. Back at it tonight.
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I have the Pac Bay tail stock. Mine was defective so I contacted Pac Bay. They sent me a packing slip and I sent it back to them. The found the defect and sent a replacement within two days. They were friendly and professional.
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I'm pretty sure it was way too tight. Every other similar pattern has been done with an underwrap. I'm thinking the base layer of thread provided enough traction/friction to keep it from sliding as compared to the rod's natural smooth surface.
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