Thanks again guys for your suggestions and posted links. This thread has been a big help for me. -chad
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Thank you all very much, good to see I have more than a few options available. -chad
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Hello, Does anyone have a suggestion for a good magnifying glass to use on wraps, preferably something that won't break the bank? Most of the posts I read on this topic are from a few years back, so wondering if there is anything new. I have been using a 10x jeweler's loupe, but don't have good eyesight to begin with and still struggle counting bands of thread. -chad
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Thank you John, that is a very thorough explanation..
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Phil, I wonder if that "Bubble Buster" product would have any effect on what we are talking about? If it changes the surface tension so that bubbles can be released, perhaps it would also work for reducing fish-eyes? Or perhaps not. I haven't tried it, just something that came to mind when browsing other posts. -chad
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Hi Phil, Good questions. The Madeira thread is added to the epoxy mixing cup prior to mixing. Regarding everything else, I don't have the chemistry know-how to push the topic further, but would be very interested in hearing what the folks at Madeira say. Thanks for doing this and keep us posted. -chad
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Hello David, I have tried what you propose and in most cases the finish either turned cloudy or softened after curing. It also left the wraps with a slippery sheen that could interfere with adhesion of successive coats epoxy. The problem with automotive fish-eye eliminator is that they were developed for two-part enamel paints--not rod building finish. Some of them also contain chemica
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Hello, If you are referring to the slick, shiny, look of Madeira as it sits on the spool--that sheen is from the silicone used to make it suitable for sewing machines. As you mentioned the intensity of that shine is toned down when using color preserver, more noticeably on darker shades of Madeira. For me it did not come back once finish was put on, but I have found that using Madeira
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I do wish I used color preserver, or at least found out what the original finish was before proceeding. The thread was a nice two-tone, space dyed I believe it is called. Oh well, chalk it up to learning. -chad
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Hello, I just re-finished the wraps on a Ply-flex fiberglass surf rod from late 60's. At first I thought there was no finish, but looking closer it did appear there was something on the wraps, as you could see where it overlapped the blank. Since the wraps were in such good shape, I simply added a coat of spar varnish, but doing so darkened the thread colors considerably. Not sure wha
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Hello, Thanks for your replies Bob, Karen, and Don. Don, I sent you an e-mail. Understandable why you won't ship to Hawaii. -chad
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Hello Rob, I'm not aware of a 3 piece 6'6" travel blank for spinning, but you might want to include some of the multiple piece fly rod blanks in your search. I have built ultralight spinning rods on such blanks, and in the right actions they perform very well. -chad
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Hello, I am looking to order some thread in the next few weeks, and interested in the color selection I see on the website (makoithread.com) My questions are: 1. All are the colors in stock? 2. Can I place an order through your website? 3. Do you ship to the Big Island of Hawaii? Thank you for your time. -chad
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I only had regular sketch paper on hand so looks a bit rough, but it did help me grasp the concept. This is a 15mm pattern, (60 threads divided by 4=15), 0 and 90 degree axes shown. -chad
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Hello, Great thread! For me it's the small everyday items that we don't seem to notice until we need to buy more: 1. Paper towels 2. Isopropyl alcohol 3. Line level (I use on blanks to make sure each end is level before applying finish) 4. Automotive masking tape 5. Razor blades/hobby knife p.s. x2 on electricity! -chad
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John, Thank you very much for such a detailed explanation w/examples of how your method helps both customers and students. It all makes sense to me now. I like that by using various templates (sized to each pattern's thread count), one can immediately reference how a pattern might look on a given blank. I'm off to raid my wife's art supplies for material to make a set of adjacent diam
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John, Thank you, I think I understand better now. What happened was that I read "4 threads per mm" as "4 threads = mm" Which led me to interpret the number of passes planned in mm (measured), instead of the thread count. My original question would have been better stated as: How does one plan the number of threads needed, such that the pattern does not wrap too
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So if I understand, 4 size "A" threads approximate 1mm. A suitable width in mm for each leg is determined, then that number is divided by 4 and the resulting measurement used to set my box cross layout on each side of the center cross. Correct? -chad
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Hi John, Thanks for your reply. I asked the question because I have never done a 4-axis layout and don't want the pattern to wrap too far around the blank. I understand how to figure out the spacing for each center cross, but what I don't understand is: How far apart should I place the marks for the box "corners" on each side of the center cross, given that the distance betw
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Hello, This week I'm working on my first 4-axis star (or spider). When it comes to figuring out spacing for the layout "box", is there a formula or do you folks just eyeball it? Appreciate any tips, my distance between centers is 1.5" -chad
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Roger W, Appreciate your suggestions and observation regarding the connection for my drill chuck. This evening I was able to source a high-quality arbor for a great price and plan on trying both methods of connecting the chuck, (pillow-block shaft and pulleys vs threaded arbor), to see if one is better suited for mandrel turning. I also used an online "Pulley and RPM Calculator"
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I have often wondered why manufacturers don't test the amount of drag a rod can handle and include that figure in their descriptions. Seems like that would be a bit more objective than just "20-40lb MH". A little tag with a pictorial warning of how NOT to use the rod, (high-sticking etc), may also be useful. -chad
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Roger W, I found your last two posts on threaded-shaft motors to be very helpful. Nice idea you came up w/for a cross-vice sander. Thank you for sharing.. -chad
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Appreciate all your suggestions, You are correct Roger W, sales listings for lathes and similar in my area are few and far between. It took months for that Delta you posted to show up, and I've been watching the ad's for awhile now. Thought a good used lathe would be an easy find as there are more than a few wood-turners here, but that's not the case. It doesn't help that shipping to Hawaii fo
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Hello All, When it comes to cork turning, listening to the whine of a corded drill in my home-made lathe is getting old. I have been thinking about upgrading to a capacitor start AC motor-driven setup, (such as is used in the old Sears Craftsman saws and lathes) as these type motors seem to be plentiful and priced within my budget. My idea is to connect the motor to mandrel by using pulley
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Hello David, I had a similar problem with epoxy finish reacting to the ink in a screen-printed logo and going wavy right above the lettering. Was advised by the folks here to use at least 2 coats of color preserver, fully dried between coats, and left untouched for 24 hours. Applying finish after that was a breeze--no waves. -chad
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Just saw the video bylines now, didn't see that the first time. "Torzite rings new flanged construction--No line-to-metal contact, and no popped rings." -chad
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Jim, that is very nice! Have always wanted a high-frame double foot option. From the video, does the ring material continue down and overlap the "leg" of the single foot? If so what purpose does it serve? -chad
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Excellent Tony, That is a great help. I'll keep it in mind for my next trip to the hardware/automotive store. -chad
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Hi Tony, Thanks for the tip. I can see how the finer fluting of a tap can cut cleaner than a drill bit. Are you turning the taps by hand or under power? -chad
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