Hello Marc, In addition to the other suggestions, I might ask are you using a razor to lightly chamfer the bore hole of the grip where it slides onto the blank? Doing so creates a beveled edge that helps funnel epoxy into the grip, rather than having it squeegeed down the blank...Just something else to consider.. -chad
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Hello, Check out Tom's article in the Library link above titled "Narrow Trim Bands and Thread Inlays". The process details using a single thread, but for wider trim you can wrap it in bands of two's and three's. For what you describe I would do: Black, 10 bands--Normal guide wrap. Metallic, 2 bands--RM inlay. Accent color, 4 bands--RM inlay or tie-off loop depending on
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I believe Jeff Andrews in the early 90's used materials/techniques developed by NASA to produce his line of extremely light, yet powerful, blanks. chad
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Thanks everyone for the tips, I like the idea of using thread. It can get quite humid where I'm at, so having a means of securing an unfinished wrap besides just double-sided tape is important. -chad
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Thanks Roger, I should have clarified that I use double-sided tape to anchor each ends of the cross-wrap after every pass. My concern is related to the possibility of the thread (or threads) lifting off the tape over time, causing that part of the pattern to loosen. -chad
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Hello, Suppose you were interrupted in the middle of a wrap and needed to take time off for a few days or longer. Is there a process to ensure that the threads already laid will not move, I was thinking perhaps a few extra wraps of high-adhesive masking tape? -chad
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Hello, I have accidentally broken two ultralight spinning rods built on high-mod blanks. The first snapped during the cast when my lure snagged the strap of a backpack I had sitting on the ground few feet away. The second fell onto some lava rocks while I was setting up broke part of the tip off. I am now building two more ultralights for myself. The blanks are made from fiberglass.
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Hello, Those of you doing a clear-coat over Krylon Fusion, are you using the Krylon spray can clear or two-part automotive? -chad
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Hello, Appreciate all your replies and e-mails, Yes, I've always heated the top a little while spinning and pulled it straight off by hand. But now I'm looking forward to trying that rubber band method that a few of you mentioned. Applying heat while pulling simultaneously sounds better than having to pause between heating the tip and attempting to pull it off. Update: I wa
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Hello, Well my turn has finally come to take on the task of removing a tip-top that will not budge at all w/multiple applications gentle heat. I have both a 3-sided file and hacksaw blades and would appreciate if anyone could walk me through their process of splitting the tube for removal. Is it better to cut diagonally in a spiral, or should I cut vertically in line with the blank? D
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Hello, Have her try it out and you may just find it really isn't a problem. Since most people's wrists are canted inwards on the retrieve (spinning), guides that are offset to the right will tend to naturally fall back in line due to the way your wrist turns. Unless, of course, the angler is left-handed...;) -chad
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Hello, My experience w/that product is that the shrink ratio seems to be a bit less than it is with others. It does not shrink as much when heated, so needs to be sized very close to what you are wrapping. Great for covering blanks, or a grip that has little change in diameter along its length. I would not use it for grips that have a significant taper towards the end where it meets t
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I don't build fly rods, but have done similar wraps on a few ultralight spinners using 5wt fly blanks and they worked fine. -chad
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Hello, I will occasionally wrap up and onto the tip-top tube for the reasons Tom stated. My preference is to select a top where the braced metal "legs" are welded fairly close to the end of the tube. The thread wrap is continued over the metal tube, and will end at that exact point where the "legs" terminate. Here is a photo: Without color preserver, it is
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Hello, I have had success using automotive clear coat safe rubbing compound to buff out surface scratches. It works as long as the scratch isn't too deep and only in the top gloss, or finish coat of the blank. I try to test in an inconspicuous area first, and if it looks ok, will apply a tiny bit rubbing compound over the scratched area and proceed to polish it using a mini buffing wheel
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Hello, I use double-sided poster tape as it it seems to be very tacky yet leaves no residue. Also, I will save a piece of the backing and place it between my thumb and the tape before pressing the threads into place. This helps keeps oil and contamination from your skin off the tape, and helps it to stay sticky longer. -chad
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Hello, I have been using the Minima 4's in the salt w/braid for a few seasons now and they have held up very well for me. -chad
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Hello, Jason you may want to try it on some scrap cork first to see if it's the look you want. I applied the varnish as thin as I could with the rod turning, then allowed almost a week for each coat to cure sufficiently. Fine scotch-brite pads will also work to knock down the gloss and give the grip a satin look. -chad
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Forgot to mention, Spar varnish gets thinned with mineral spirits..
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Hello, As mentioned Tru-Oil will work. Some consider it sacrilege of good cork, but out of curiosity I have also tried spar varnish, the ACE Hardware brand. Used 3-5 light coats, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before re-coating. Those grips have held up very well, the varnish being just a bit of weight akin to adding a length of diamond wrap and epoxy finish. I liked how spar
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Hello, If it's a spinning rod you might not need to do anything at all depending on which direction the seat is canted. Spinning guides in use are not always held at a perfectly level axis in relation to the blank. Sometimes they end up being offset just a bit inwards, in line with the flexion of the anglers's wrist. You can see this effect if you try to work a lure with the guide ri
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Hello, I use a space heater. Auto mixers, sometimes you'll have to adjust the angle a bit to get the bearing to stay at the bottom of the cup and not "climb" up the sides. Of course if the finish is too thick then the angle wouldn't make much difference. -chad
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Hello, I have always been curious about the rationale behind letting the line touch the blank or not. If the area where the blank bends the most takes the greatest amount of stress, would it then follow that the number of guides and their spacing is more important than their height or if the line touches the blank, since distance between guides is what increases or decreases stress on the blan
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Hello, Not sure if your boat rod is conventional or spinning, but if spinning you might want to look at Batson's VS3 guides. I have paired them with the old Pacbay Rainforest-2 blanks, (20lb mag-bass), and they are very durable. The frames are triple braced, heavy, and use a thicker stainless than others in the same class. I like the black version as I found them to be very saltwater-
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Hello, I was wondering too as the spools seem narrower, but taller, than a usual 100 yd spool. Have had no problems with the metallics I've tried. They don't fray or come apart, and stay coiled on the spool when cut. Wish they made more colors (metallic) to choose from. -chad
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Hello, For that task I use either a mini chop-saw or right-angle Dremel tool. They are equipped with cutoff wheels sized to the blank being cut. A few layers masking tape is wrapped around the intended cut area. Then, with the blank is supported on either side, the cutoff wheel is slowly lowered into the tape and through the blank. -chad
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Looking good..thanks for sharing for those of us who couldn't make it. -chad
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Hello, I have done a few dark-colored blanks and wraps with pearl pigment powder. The micro metallic flakes are much finer than glitter. They give a smoother look while still being shiny and iridescent. A little goes a long way, too much and the finish will take on a "textured" appearance. -chad
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Looks very comfortable, thanks for sharing.
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Hello, That is known as a twisted inlay, or one-half of a JT Olive Branch. It is done by spiraling the inlay thread over the main thread for exactly one revolution of the blank. -chad
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