Hello, If you are referring to the 2-3" closed-end EVA/cork fighting butts, I use a jig which I made from square plastic blocks that have a V-groove running down the middle. The blocks are mounted to my workbench and tightened together so that the grip sits squarely within the V-grooves. I make sure the top of the grip is level then carefully enlarge the bore using multiple drill
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Conner, NGC, KR, 27x...these setups differ from traditional ones in that they require more (and smaller) running guides spaced fairly close together. This allows for your line to "hug" the rod blank and follow its curve under load as precisely as possible, similar to two parabolas spaced evenly apart one above the other. From what I understand, casting and overall performance incr
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Robert, Yes that is the one I recall seeing, maybe not a video but it worked well for me. Only difference is I don't use spray adhesive, rather a super thin coat of rod-bond--more working time and easier to clean up. Appreciate you posting the link. -chad
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Hi Conner, I wouldn't worry about amount of running guides unless their total weight is an issue. With KR, NGC, 27x etc, the sizes used for running guides are such that it takes a whole bunch of them to equal the weight of a single reduction guide. The longest rod I've done (27x) was 14'6" and similar in action and purpose to yours. Rather than use a set distance for the runners on th
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Hi Scott, I used the word "stripping" to describe removal of components before the rod gets repaired or re-built. That could range from removing a single broken guide, to complete removal of grips and reel seat so that one is left with a bare blank. The paint/finish on the blank itself can also be stripped and replaced with a new finish or different color. Removal of paint
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Hello, If using the same motor to both apply and dry epoxy finish, I prefer something slow at 6-9 RPM's. If using a variable speed motor, you can apply finish at high RPM'S (100+) then select a slower speed for drying. For me the process for applying finish changes with the speed of the motor used. -chad
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Hello, I searched for that one too awhile back with no luck. Have seen and done it before though, and if I remember right the process was to cut the heat-shrink a bit longer than the grip at both ends. Gentle heat is applied from the center out, then grip is held vertically and the ends are pressed down on a hard, flat, surface for a minute or two. This will fold the heat-shrink over a
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Hello, Just finished doing a bunch of similar repairs. My process is to rinse off any dirt and grit with the "spray" nozzle on my garden hose. Then I use warm water, Dawn dishwashing liquid, and a soft sponge before stripping. This helps clean up the really dirty rods and makes it easier for me to get a better look at overall condition, any damages, etc. Have not yet encountered a
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Hello, Having the same problem here. When it gets fixed, I hope I wont see my photo posted multiple times to match submission attempts. -chad
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Hello, I enjoyed watching all your videos when I first started rod-building, and the same goes for this one. Noticed you trim your brush to an ultra-fine point in order to do the narrow section near the tip. Great idea and one I will have to try sometime. Thank you again for sharing. -chad
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What happened OP? Why did you take your post down? I thought it was interesting. Sorry I couldn't specifically answer your questions regarding guide setup. I'm not well-versed in GT popping rods, which is why I referred you to the person/persons who are... -chad
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Hello, Thanks for sharing. 20/16's out to the tip sounds like a very specialized set-up and may have a limit to which reels, knots, and leaders will work. FG knot is very smooth and compact so I can see how it could work with a #20 stripper. The only GT popping rods I've seen use Fuji MNAG's in a traditional set-up. I would love to see the rod you describe in action. Perhaps you could run this
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Hello, Appreciate the suggestions and sharing of experience. I will take a closer look at the products mentioned, especially that Clear Cure. Have a great weekend all. -chad
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Hello, Bill, I agree with your statements. A fix in the field is just that, and quality for me could be better achieved at home away from distraction. Barry, Thanks for the caution and sharing your experience. It reminds me of mixing surfboard resin when I was younger, could not hold onto the mixing cup for long because the heat was getting too intense. Russell, Definitely something
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Hello Ellis, Thanks for your reply. I wonder how that product you saw being used held up after awhile? The 5-minute Devcon I tried looked ok at first, but over time it yellowed quite badly. My impression is that those 5-minute epoxies we see in hardware stores are formulated more for gluing things together and less for use as a protective top-coat, though I am nowhere near qualified to say for
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Hello, I'm putting together a rod and reel "first aid kit" for repairs in the field. When it comes to 2-part epoxy finish for guide wraps and such, why is there no fast-curing option, (aside from UV cured), that could be applied and used in minutes rather than days? Seems like they make a 15-minute epoxy adhesive, but nothing of that sort for epoxy finishes? In the past I have use
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I like the new format. Yellow on red is easy for me to see, and the "View Larger Image" feature allows the finer details of a wrap to show..
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Hello, One way I've seen people post photos is by uploading the picture to a separate photo-hosting website such as "photo bucket". They then copy and paste a link to the photo in their post. Another way to do it is by uploading your photo directly to the Rodbuilding.Org photo gallery. To post photos in that gallery, click on the "PHOTOS" link at the top of this
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Hello, U40 and Rod Dancer make some good paste-type epoxies that are easy to work with. I prefer the slow cure ones as they allow more time for clean up and alignment of components. Don't use Gorilla Glue as it is messy and the parts must be tight-fitting and clamped, otherwise bond will be very weak. *Edit There is an article in the Library Link at the top of the page titled "Surfac
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Hello, I have used Rustoleum gloss black, (or semi-gloss-can't remember which), to touch up the legs and feet of black Fuji aluminum oxide and hardloy guides. Never did an entire guide frame so can't speak for that process, but for touch ups: Clean the area you wish to have painted and lightly sand with fine paper. Punch (or cut) a hole in some thin cardboard just a bit bigger than the pai
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Hello, Thanks for your quick responses, Tom- Good to know this can be successfully done. Thanks for the tip on finding the best set-ups for both reels, then seeing if they can be dialed in to overlap. Ellis- That kind of data is what I'm especially interested in. Sounds like you got the height of the round Garcia conventionals to mesh with the spool diameter of the Penn 550. Looks lik
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Hello, Been toying with the idea of building a dual-rung surf rod for personal use. Blank will be a Rainshadow SUR1569. Intended reels will be a Penn Jigmaster (conventional), and Spinfisher 9500 (spinning), both with monofilament. Is it too much to expect reasonable performance from both set-ups? It seems the limiting factor would be the stripper guide, as its size and placement would nec
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Hello, IGFA rated lines are supposed to test consistently at, or slightly below, their breaking strength. Monofilament, you will find some brands will be thinner than others and offer better distance. Hi-Seas Black Widow is one of my favorite IGFA monofilaments, and not a bad deal for the price...Co-polymers will also generally be thinner than their mono equivalent. -chad
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Hello, Thanks Jim. Is there a link to order a size 24 directly from Angler's Resource? I spot the link for your authorized retailers, but when I looked them up a few months ago it seemed they only carried NPS up to a size 20? From what I was told, it seems those larger sizes are not as popular so they don't stock them. -chad
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Hello, Sometimes the way guides are oriented with a blank's natural curve make it hard to see where it bends, but once guides are removed any bend becomes much more obvious. I once had a similar experience as you, thought I somehow had badly damaged the blank, then remembered it already had a prominent curve in it when I first wrapped it. -chad
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Hello, Thank you all very much for your responses and e-mail. I will have a look at the blanks you folks suggested. For anyone curious, the blank will be used specifically to fish for a type of juvenile salt-water goatfish called oama, (o-wa'-ma), that schools nearshore during the summer months. These little guys are about the size of a sardine or smaller and popular here as a bait fish or
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Hello, Hand pole in this case is referring to those bamboo, fiberglass, or composite poles used for still fishing. They can be either one-piece or come in multiple sections. Hook and line is tied directly to the tip and fished that way without use of a reel or rod guides. I suppose they are more commonly called "panfish, crappie, and bream poles". Here are some examples:
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Perhaps do a search under "gaff building"? I have purchased pre-formed EVA surf grips from Angler's Workshop in that size but not the raw hypalon.
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Hello, I have an interesting request for an ultralight hand pole similar to the thin-walled telescopic store models used for panfish. He prefers it to be 7' one piece, but I am not sure there is anything like that out there available? I have looked at many ultralight blanks and can't seem to find one that would justify use as a hand pole given their cost. My next thought was to use the tip
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Hello, For anyone interested, just wanted to mention D-Blue Fishing to the left carries NPS style seats in the larger (and harder to find) 22, 24, and 26 sizes. I got a #24 from them which seems to be of good quality and which I intend to use on my next surf rod. -chad
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