Hello, Have you looked into using a small fly-rod guide as the hookeeper, similar to the ones made by Recoil? Going with the single-foot version would certainly allow you to shorten up the wrap. Is there a chance you could simply locate your wrap a bit further up, extend the bottom tie-off, then ream the grip to just under the diameter of the wrap itself? i.e. let the wrap be your arbor and
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Hello, Digital here, for all the reasons listed above. I make it a point to check the battery/s every so often for leakage--pretty much the norm for LR44 button cells. Upside is that if they do leak, it is usually minimal and easy to clean up, unlike other alkalines. After 6 months or so, I will replace these cells regardless if they still work, as the voltage is fairly low by then--a cond
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Hello, Make sure that whatever you use to hold the blank, as well as tie-off the line, is capable of handling the pressure. I once cracked the upper half of a heavy surf blank when my tie-off let go--expensive lesson learned. -chad
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I don't speak Spanish, but enjoyed the tour of Nuno's shop..Beautiful work, thanks for sharing. Chad
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Hello, Regarding heat guns, if you can find one of the smaller ones meant for embossing--those have the perfect velocity for popping bubbles without blowing dust onto your wraps. Chad
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Always great to hear positive feedback regarding Permagloss's compatibility with different paints.. chad
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Sounds like a fun contest. If you ever hold a Turtle Wrap Challenge, I'd be up for it...;) -chad
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Hello, Thanks for info/suggestions on stripping the excess epoxy. Michael- A new blank would definitely be easier, but he was adamant about wanting to rebuild this rod for sentimental reasons (it was one of his first). Understandably no one else would touch it, so I took on the project knowing beforehand knowing it would be difficult, but do-able given time and patience. Doug- Thanks
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Especially when it's an older trolling rod coated from tip to butt in sun-baked epoxy finish by the previous builder. An entire weekend of tedious work removing guides, scraping off epoxy, and I only managed to complete a tiny portion near the butt: Looks like the work's cut out for me on this one. chad
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Hello, I also use a bright light when removing dust. It really helps to see things better, especially on black thread. -chad
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Hello, Not Prowrap, but I have found the garnet produced by Fishhawk to be very close--especially on a light-colored blank and without color preserver. -chad
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Calstar, Gardena CA. -chad
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Talon Graphite, Woodland WA. -chad
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Thank you very much. Chad
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Hello, Is there a way one can change their user settings such that old posts are automatically bumped to the first page when someone adds a comment? I have noticed in my searches here that folks will continue to ask questions/pose answers to topics that are months, even years old, without their comment ever being seen--unless you happen to be following that post and are notified of its cont
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If the blank is held vertical, how are you supposed to stop successive coats of epoxy finish from running down to the grips, and thinning out at the top of the ramp? -chad
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Hello and welcome! Regarding epoxy ramps, an over-wrap of black thread should give your finish some "tooth" helping it stay in place. A "high build" finish will be more resistant to creeping and allow for thicker coat. Of course the ramp will have to be slightly lower than the grip/reel seat, such that the top coat of finish allows it to meet flush. Lately I have b
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Hello, Garnet/Copper, Garnet/Gold, and Chestnut/Gold are some of my favorites. -chad
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Hello, I had almost the exact same dilemma posted here: As you can see, it seems that once corrosion sets in/around the ferrule any chance of the parts being seperated goes down. If, however, the parts are just tightly fitted w/minimal to no corrosion, you might have a better chance. -chad
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Hello, Not sure exactly which c-clamp style you are referring to, but here is one I remember seeing: chad
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Hello, Here in the islands, I will not apply finish in the evenings if the day was humid and the temperature is dropping. It seems more cases of amine blush occur here under those conditions, perhaps your locale is similar as well.. -chad
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Hello, Thanks for the info on the Foredom, I'll have to look into that. My chop-saw is also wired up to a foot pedal, albeit one without variable speed control. -chad
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Hello, Thanks everyone for your responses. Unfortunately I have not been able to come up with a solution for getting this ferrule un-stuck. Neither heat, nor cold, nor a variety of penetrating oils seemed to help; The fit of the ferrule is just so air-tight. With the blank standing upright, any oil/atf would simply pool on the surface of the joint rather than flow down in between.
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Thanks for the info Russ. The ferrule I am working with looks to be chrome-plated brass and serves as connection between the blank and reel seat/butt assembly. I was told the blank section of this rod is able to be detached from the butt via that ferrule and locking ring. Here is a photo of a similarly ferruled RS 5-H:
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Hello, I just received a 130lb big game rod (bent butt) due for a re-wrap. Need to chuck the blank in the lathe for sanding, but the Varmac RS 5 reel seat ferrule is stuck fast. I've tried letting it soak in WD-40 rust release penetrant to no avail. Thinking about trying heat next, but thought I'd post here first. Has anyone encountered this before and if so what are some things yo
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Hello, I was browsing the big @#$%& site and saw a set of gold-ring Microwaves for sale, was wondering if any of the vendors have them in stock? chad
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Hello, Are you using a sanding block to evenly knock down the high spots? As for how far to sand, if you do a small wrap of thread on the same rod and compare it's height to the recently finished guide wraps, that should give you some idea of how much epoxy you can safely sand away before hitting the thread. Sometimes it's helpful to add a second coat of epoxy over the wavy first coat b
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Hello, I use either Krylon Fusion/Krylon Supermaxx, Rustoleum Universal, or Rustoleum Painter's Touch in semi-gloss white. All are rattle-can type paints developed for use on plastic and hold up fine to the flexing of a rod blank. I mark the beginning and end of where the wrap will be, tape off the blank, then proceed to dull the finish within the taped-off area w/a scotchbrite pad or si
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Hello, I always paint the blank white if wrapping neons. As mentioned, it really helps. -chad
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Hello Michael, Other than color preserver, here are a few things you could try that will help maintain some--but not all--of the original spool color: 1. Pick a color that is a few shades lighter than what you want, such that when it darkens with epoxy it will be close to your desired color. 2. Experiment with an underwrap of silver or gold metallic. The thread will still darken, but wil
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