Posted by: David Sytsma (---.dhcp.klmz.mi.charter.com) Date: July 06, 2017 02:49PM Here is my issue. I build a lot of saltwater rods, many which get used on long range boats. For years I haven't had any problems but now some of my builds are coming back to me with rusting guide frames. From asking questions, I'm discovering that most of the rusted frames have been subjected to lengthy stretch
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Here is my issue. I build a lot of saltwater rods, many which get used on long range boats. For years I haven't had any problems but now some of my builds are coming back to me with rusting guide frames. From asking questions, I'm discovering that most of the rusted frames have been subjected to lengthy stretches of use without attempts to periodically rinse the rods off with fresh water or using
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I just recently finished a Phenix 760x2H. 7 1/2' blank. Ten guides with a tiptop wrap and short butt wrap. I had about 5 yards left on a 100yard spool of ProWrap. Wow.
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Usually when we go on a long trip and take several rods, we would bundle them tightly together with velcro to prevent them abrading themselves against one another. A couple of years ago we decided to buy a bunch of those nylon sleeves (Stik Jacket is a brand name) and put a sleeve on each rod before we bundled them all together. Found out last year that the nylon sleeves were rubbing the finish o
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Thanks for all the comments. I don't often have problems with epoxy finish; it was more of a rhetorical question. Dave Sytsma
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Sorry everyone. I found where I had posted a similar thread a few years ago and had forgotten about it. Sure sign of old age. On another note, though, I had a few people mention to me that you NEVER want to use a Sharpie to re-color the bare stainless steel on a prepped guide foot. Apparently the ink in a Sharpie has a very high chloride content, so what you basically are doing is creating a perf
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I've built a few saltwater rods, and don't recall ever having this question addressed. After you prep your guide feet on a stainless steel guide frame, do you leave it as is, or do you put something on it to protect the naked stainless where the finish was removed? Does it matter?
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Great stuff. I've found it actually gives a more accurate color rendition than Flex Coat CP. The Flex Coat does a great job too, but if you test the two products side by side on a test wrap the Flex Coat leaves the thread just slightly darker. All depends if it's that important to you or not.
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Nearly everyone I know has had issues with applying epoxy finish at some point, myself included. A thought occurred to me while getting ready to prepare some finish; why do we always seem to use epoxy? When I built my first rods back in the early 70's, we were using Gudebrod solvent based rod varnish. and I still have some of those early attempts. It took several coats to get what you wanted and
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Paul, I've built two Calstars this year on the 270-7 E Glass blanks which are pretty close to your 700ML(which I assume is a Graphiter). On both, I used Fuji BLNAG Alconite guides, which I've used many, many times in the past. They're a great guide for the money and I've had zero problems with them. I have also built a couple in the past with the Fuji SiC's because that was what the customers
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I will use CP on both NCP or regular nylon if the customer is looking for a certain color and I can't get it without the CP. I have no problem with using it either way. I have two brands that I use; Chromaseal and FlexCoat. Both work fine, the Chromaseal is a little thinner and a bit easier to use in my opinion, but I probably use them both equally. The reason I have two brands is I've found that
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Ok, guys. Problem solved. Special thanks to Bill and Roger for sharing their advice on the guide feet grinding. As I indicated, I always prep my guide feet, but never have encountered feet that needed this much shaping. I don't have a belt sander, but I do have one of those Worksharp knife and tool sharpeners (which is basically a miniature belt sander), put one of the coarse belts on and gave it
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I had to file a claim with FedEx for a rod I shipped to a customer this spring that arrived broken. Same scenario, Mark. Used a PVC tube I received a blank in which arrived just fine, but I think the baggage monkeys at the FedEx depot used the tube I sent to the customer for a javelin. Filed a claim. Took several photos of the damaged rod and the PVC tube per their instructions and filled out the
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I got away with using a white underwrap on a gloss black blank because a customer insisted on it, but I had to pack the thread unbelievably tight to get it done. It was "4 or 5 revolutions and pack the thread", then burnish well. Not a scenario I would choose on a routine basis.
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Thanks for all the advice and ideas, guys. I just got home and found all these good posts. In an attempt to clarify, I've got all my underwraps done and I'm in the process of actually wrapping the guides on. I'm wrapping from the underwrap (leaving about 4mm showing in this case) up onto the guide foot starting from the blank and wrapping toward the guide ring as is customary. I pulled the #20 an
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Robert, Yes, all the guide feet have been tapered like I usually do; the problem starts about halfway up the taper after the thread has made the transition onto the guide foot and continues all of the way to where the wrap terminates at the ring. As mentioned, the frames are pretty big, bigger than the (okay, I'll drop the name) Fuji's I usually use. I'm not sure that even filing the sides of
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I am currently wrapping the guides on a rod, and the bottom guide (which is a #20) is giving me fits. The guides are American Tackle Titans, titanium frame, which I haven't used before. The frame seems much more massive in gauge compared to other brands I've used. I'm using PacBay NCP thread size A. I can't seem to be able to not get a puckered appearance where the thread comes off the guide fee
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Chester, I agree with Roger. My shop is below ground off the end of my basement, and it can be cool. I use an electric space heater to (1) heat my Flex Coat high build to ~80-90 degrees and (2) keep the temp up when I've got rods on the dryer. Usual room temp is 65 degrees, but it will get to around 75 when I've been in there for a couple of hours because of the heat the shop lights add, and whe
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Sorry to be so late in replying to those interested in the outcome of my search for Gudebrod green/black twist in a thread I started a month ago. After a lot of dead ends and ordering thread that ended up not being the color I was looking for (I'll use it anyway on another build), a gracious Rodboard member had six he was willing to sell me. It was an incredible gesture of kindness on his part. F
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With pleasure, Dennis.
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It's a thought, Bill. Sentimentality was the reason I was so fixated on that particular thread because I used it on the first boat rod I built for my son about 12 years ago. It;s looking pretty ragged, but the blank and handle are fine. Can't get the blanks anymore either from St. Croix. New guides and a re-wrap are what it needs, and he wanted the same thread if it was possible. As I said, I got
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Just put in an order 10 minutes ago. Confirmation has already been received. I called them to verify shipping times and they seemed to think it might arrive tomorrow or Monday It's the first time I've used them since they moved, so we'll see what happens. They are the closest supplier for me.
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Thanks to everyone for all for your help and advice. I finally found the thread I wanted, and it's on the way. Sometimes persistence pays off. Dave
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Thanks, Bob.
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Sorry, guys. I confess I didn't realize my email was hidden. It's there now. Dave Sytsma
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Bill, I'm having fun, I'm motivated, and have the time. It's a winning combination. What's not to like? Sell me that spool you have and I'll let this thread die.
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I'm still in the hunt. I just called Bingham Enterprises as Eric suggested. It was the stuff I needed, but somebody called 45 minutes ago and bought it all. Close, but no cigar.
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Sounds like the stuff, Don. The product number is right. I got the 521 number off four other spools of the twist I have; the only difference was the color number( the black/orange twist was color 221) . Is the 524 a size A, only in a bigger spool?
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The thread I'm looking for is Gudebrod #521 Classic Twist size A, but frankly, I'll take any diameter because this stuff is really scarce. I looked all over @#$%& and nobody there has any. I've got a good photo of the partial spool I have, but am having trouble figuring out how to post it on this site (Okay, I'm a senior citizen of Dutch lineage, so cut me a little slack). Don Becker, you are cor
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Dennis, I forgot to mention that the description of "black and green" is because both of the labels on the spool are missing. Dave Sytsma
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