Dennis, Thanks for the reply. I've never tried sending a photo on this site, but I'll give it a go at some point today. If the color is the same, I can probably make it happen with 50 yards. Foolishly, I discarded my Gudebrod catalogue a couple of years ago when I found out that they went out of business. I'll see if I can find one online for a reference to help clarify the color I need. Th
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I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can find a spool of Gudebrod twist, the black and green, in Size A. I checked with DONART, but they didn't have any. I have some, but I don't think there is enough on the spool to complete the job. Thanks.
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Bob, are you thinning the paint, or using it straight? I presume if you are thinning it to get a thin coat you are using the recommended thinners for the individual paints.
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Thanks for all the helpful tips. I always try to "fill the tunnels" on a guide with finish (I've been using Threadmaster Lite for the last few months and like it very much) and I had thought that I had allowed any CP'd threads to dry completely prior to putting on the finish, but can't verify that. I'll make sure that CP'd thread gets at least an overnight before I start with the epoxy,
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As I imagine most of you do, I file or grind my guide feet prior to wrapping to get the smooth transition from the blank up on to the guide foot. On a trip last year we got caught in some ugly weather and several of the rods in our "arsenal" were damaged. My son informed me that I need to find a different way to do my guides, as a lot of them showed signs of rust. I showed him some Cals
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Truly a sad, sad, day when I got the email. Living in Michigan, they weren't exactly local, but then again, no one really is except for Jann's. I've dealt with a few different suppliers, but NONE has ever provided me with the customer service and personal touch that Dave Lyons & company provided. I will greatly miss them and wish them all the best in the future, wherever it takes them.
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I use BMNAG's about 80% of the time. They are a great, tough, quality guide. If someone wants to spend more, I'll usually recommend the Fuji MNSG SiC guides.
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Ditto to Terry. I use Speedball gold and silver acrylic ink. You can get it from some of the suppliers on the left, or Hobby Lobby and Michael's. Won't smear under epoxy, but I let it dry a couple of hours to be safe. It will smear under rod varnish, but rod varnish is seldom used anymore.
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I buy from Mudhole and other suppliers as well. I have almost no complaints about any of them. I'm not on their payroll, but the things I've ordered recently from Angler's Workship have all been pre-fitted by them prior to shipping (you may have to ask them, but it's a free service). Makes it really handy for tip tops and winding checks, among other things. Very good people to work with.
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I've got a deckhand rod with a hopelessly screwed up rubberized cork tape handle that I want to re-grip with cord, but am going to use flocked shrink tubing to get me through my next trip, after which I'll go with the cord. I'll contact the company about the yarn configuration; I wonder if it is flat or round?
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Jim, I'd like to see it as well, but couldn't get an email through your spamblocker.
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You need to close up the gaps between the threads to prevent bleed through. You do this by packing your overwrap threads and burnishing them with a burnishing tool, back of a teaspoon, or the equivalent. On your dark underwrap you can use 2-3 coats of color preserver, or just a thin coat of epoxy on the underwrap without CP, depending on the color you're looking for. What you want is a firm coat
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Bill, Oddly enough when I had my most recent exam, I mentioned a "buff" to him and he didn't know what it was. He's always been badgering me to wear clothing that has a high protection rating. Go figure. Not that many dermatologists in this town, either. Anyway, when I am done fishing, gardening, or whatever and I remove the Pelagic sunshield, I've never had any sunburn or tender areas
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Bill, Apology accepted. To answer your question, no. The one I use from Pelagic doesn't make me sweat; oddly enough I think I am more cool wearing it than I would be without it as it seems to wick the sweat away so well. It's 82 today and I've spent 6 hours weeding in my garden with the Pelagic sunshield on. No problem with facial sweat. When I'm fishing way south down the Baja, sometimes the
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Steve, Buffs are a brand name of the sunshield you see on the Pelagic website. Mine happens to be the blue fish camo one, and my brother has one of the dorado colored ones. We were using them for the first time, and both of us agreed that we wouldn't go without them. Just really good. Bill, I'm not going to bother to tell you what I really think of your post other than no one 's complaining
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Roger, I wholeheartedly agree. Personally, I've had over 20 pre-cancerous lesions frozen off my face and ears, plus two minor surgeries to remove slices of skin on my nose where the nitrogen freezing didn't get the job done. I get a whole-body exam from my dermatologist annually. Roger is 100% correct; this is serious stuff, folks. Had my exam three weeks ago in the afternoon; doctor only fro
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I also scuff it slightly with a scotch brite pad, wipe it with denatured alcohol, sign it with Speedball acrylic ink and a calligrapher's pen, let dry, coat it with a coat of your favorite epoxy finish. Depending on the diameter of the rod at it's widest point, usually where your largest guide is, you can either ship it in a PVC tube with caps on each end, or a 4" diameter cardboard tube wit
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Roger, I ordered two because I got them so cheap ( I can use the other one in my office). I unboxed one and set it up on my bench and it looks like it will do the job well. I haven't tried wrapping anything and probably won't for a couple of months. I'm temporarily out of business with my right hand and wrist in a cast. As I am right handed, it's challenging to say the least, but I'm confident be
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I just found five of the Patriot 26" LED lights at the Menards in South Haven, MI. They wouldn't transfer them from their store to the Kalamazoo, MI store I usually shop at, but the Manager of the Electrical Dept. in South Haven said she would Fedex me one. Cost of the light= $7.00. Fedex charge= $5.00. Seven bucks?? So I bought two. Total with shipping for two was $21 + tax. If anyone is in
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Jim, Randolph's idea is much better than the 4' shop lights. My bench top is 12' long( 2- 6' metal work benches bolted together) with a 3/4" white melamine top and a white pegboard back. I thought adding two 4' shop lights 18" over the bench top (under the two shelves on top of the benches) would be the ultimate solution. Didn't really work as well as I thought it would. The shop light
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Ditto, Michael. I also wish I would have had the privilege to meet the man. He presented himself on this forum as the true gentleman that I'm sure he indeed was.
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I agree with Barry. I've been using the masking tape trick for a couple of years now. Works really well. I always do this before applying finish; lots better than discovering a dust particle after the finish is on.
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I've got ringed SiC on most of my 50# rods, Fuji Alconites on the others, and never had any problems. The rods are really light and do a fine job on the fish. The only rods I have been using rollers on were trolling sticksand a couple of heavy bottom rods in the 80# + class.
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Thanks, Tom.
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I should already know the answer to this, but being in somewhat of a time crunch, I thought I'd float this out on the rodboard. I put a thin coat of Threadmaster Lite on some underwraps I am doing. I've used this product before and like it a lot. I'm usually very precise when mixing finish, but might have gotten it a hair off this time. MIxed up ~ 8cc's. After two days to cure, I'm finding that t
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Mike, Roger is correct. Gabe's methods are good too; I won't take anything away from him, but I just dealt with this problem about three weeks ago. See my thread from 4/14/2014 on tip top adhesives. Personally, I've changed my methods from all the help I've received on this forum and am going to use hot melt adhesive only. Simpler, easier, less trouble when you have a problem. Dave
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Tom and Roger, Thanks so very much. There is so much quality help and information available here, it's almost mind-boggling. And Tom, thanks also for all you do as moderator, ect. It's appreciated more than you know. Dave Sytsma
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Tom, I've got an American Tackle power wrapper. What I meant to mean about "diminished lifting power" was the reduced deadlift capacity that I am led to believe you see if you you mounted your guides (such as on a spinning rod) 180 degrees from the compression side of the blank. So if I understand correctly, for a casting or bait rod that you might use for tuna, I should be mounting my
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I've been told there are no stupid questions, so I hope you guys don't beat me up on these. I've checked the Rodboard library and and spent a couple of hours surfing the Rodboard pages last night for answers and I'm still unsure what to do. So I'll give you the easy question first. 1. I read a post about cutting down a blank, and that to maintain the blank's characteristics you needed to remov
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Thanks very much guys. When I use the hot melt, I do as Tom suggested and haven't had any trouble. Sounds like Roger's technique is similar to what Tom and I do. I've got some kid's spincast rods I have to repair for a volunteer function I perform, and I'm going to try Randolph's idea. Sounds brilliant. I also think I'll stay with the hot melt for all future applications; I've been able to remove
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