A couple of rod builder friends and I were batting around the subject of what adhesive is the best to use for attaching tip tops. I've used both 5 minute epoxy and regular hot melt tip adhesive with equal success. I have seen a couple of tips come loose on long range trips I've been on; custom rods built for the fishermen and I don't think they knew what had been used. When the tips let go they j
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Thanks very much for all the thoughts and advice. And Tom, I'm especially more relieved now to know that I am not compromising the strength of my wraps if I feel I need to use CP on a given rod. I arrived at my initial "evaluation" by using a scrap black blank and packing the threads very tightly. Each color I wrapped, from white to dark blue, I sectioned off with a fine point Sharpie i
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I've got a couple of questions about color preserver. I've used it occasionally in the past without significant problems, and frankly, I've personally never seen a wrap fail due to coming unwound after color preserver was used. Questions: 1. Does it's use negatively affect the overall strength of the wrap to an unacceptable degree as the finish can't penetrate the threads as well? 2. For t
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I've fished a lot on long range boats. I've asked several of the most experienced deckhands (they will become apparent after a couple of days) and fishermen who have gone out for decades about what they consider the best length for a rear grip. I get the same answer almost 100% of the time. If you put the butt of the rod even with the end of your elbow, and make a motion as if you were grasping y
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I like U40 Cork Seal for certain applications. I've built a few bait rods for saltwater use on long range boats, and I'm pleased with the way the cork has held up under the rough treatment they usually get, even occasional rail use. Yes, it will not feel as soft, it will darken it just slightly, and the natural recesses in the cork will be accented, but it doesn't get slippery when working a fish
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Jim, I never thought to check what the chemical ingredients are in a Sharpie. Thanks a lot for the tip. Chloride based; that says a lot. In the interest of complete disclosure here, I rarely use a file on guide feet. I use a Dremel with either a grinding stone or one of the small Dremel sanding drums. I'm also wondering if what I'm seeing that I perceive as rust or corrosion (it appears dark in
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Roger, I was thinking about either using lacquer or even nail polish. I'm assuming (hate to assume anything) that either nail polish or colored lacquer would not be affected by the rod finish. I know that epoxy doesn't bother much of anything, but if I choose to use varnish, that I occasionally use like some old Gudebrod Rod Finish I have, it will dissolve the nail polish or lacquer. I like tita
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I've noticed on some of my older saltwater rods (not an apparent problem on my freshwater stuff) that there seems to be rust or corrosion beginning where I ground down the guide feet prior to wrapping. No doubt these will have to be re-wrapped in the future. Usually I use a Sharpie on the exposed metal and haven't coated the exposed metal with anything, thinking that the epoxy rod finish would e
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Thanks for the help and opinions folks. I'm going to check into the do-it-yourself hydroprinting, and if I decide to paint some, I'll probably airbrush them and coat with a clear urethane of some type. I've seen the ads for Mudhole's blanks, but if memory serves me correctly, they were for lighter applications than I've been asked about. I have a couple of people who are interested in getting cam
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I know blanks can be painted. Do you coat the painted blank with finish to protect the paint? Another question: Has anyone ever had a blank "dipped" in a camo or other pattern like they do with guns? if so, where did you have it done, and how much did it set you back?
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Thanks very much for the advice. I guess it's say hello to hypalon, unless somebody has another suggestion.
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I have some Mooseskin EVA that I am thinking of trying on a blank (Calstar 6460XH) that would possibly be used for stand-up tuna fishing on a long range boat. I know that most rods of this type use Hypalon. Would the EVA be an acceptable alternative? Chances are it could see a lot of contact with the rail during a fight and I would like it to last more than a couple of trips. I also heard a stray
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I haven't had any experience with EVA. I've been told to treat it as you would cork when mounting it to a blank. I have had a couple of people recently tell me that it doesn't hold up and that sunscreen will dissolve it. I'm suspicious as to the truth of those comments, and before I contact any manufacturers about those complaints, I thought I'd throw it out on this board for comments. I have som
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