I use a 12' counter top with two - three drawers file cabinets as supports on each end. I also support the counter top with two pieces of steel to eliminate any bowing in the counter top.
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I nearly always (never say never) use a size 17. I've recently built my grandson a spinning outfit with a size 16 and found that my test reel (size 1000) barely fit, I won't being using a 16 anymore unless I have the reel first to check for fit. I've used the Batson AT several times and they are nice. I build all my northern trolling rods with size 6 runners which have done a good job, never h
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Doing a search one can find many hot melts in various temperature ranges. I found seven at the 175 degree melt point that might work. Pick one that has the properties you're looking for and try it out for yourself. The hard part maybe buying in small enough quantity so you don't break the bank.
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Scott Hovanec Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > the dry transfers are a pain to apply. I had a > friend incorporate their artwork into my standard > decal/logo and had Decal Connection make a > peel-n-stick. > > > fc/SHFISH0018.jpg > > > fcarb/decal.jpg You must have gotten North Fork's permission to do that, is that
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The reel is a Shimano Sedona 500 and the line is Namofil 4#. The casts are unbelievable with a small crappie jig.
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Don, all I can say is they are nice and with the new processes being used that are state-of-the-art. What other lines are they dropping, changing or adding that you know of?
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I would agree with all of the postings. The current Batson website is not very good I've used and like the Get Bit Outdoors site. Although, there is some specs that aren't available on the items of interest on Get Bit's so for that I'll dig out my paper catalog and go from there. I though Batson was going to be upgrading their site and if this is it, I'm very disappointed! ;~(
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I built my ultra-light using the GPS software using 12H (19"), 5.5H (25.25") and then 4.5's (starting at 31") and it's a dream to cast! All distances are from reel shaft end.
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ALPS LXN's & F's zirconium guides and matching tip top, cork composite EVA foam grips and graphite grip.
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I have two of them and I like them. I have one wrap traditionally with the guides on top and the other is a spiral wrap for comparison. I like them both, but the spiral wrap is my favorite. All components are the same between them.
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Pat Barnard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have been searching for a good LED ligt for my > rod wrapping bench. I have ordered a few but they > are not bright as I desire. I purchased one that > was for sale at the Expo ~ $110.00 and it does not > have the light needed as well. Any suggestions on > what ya'll use, make and type would
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That explains the one I sent quite some time ago.
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If you tell us the location of the log jam we might be able help you out with originals ;-).
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I'm not sure what a Abu Garcia SX5 looks like, but I would image that it is pretty small. I built a ultra light last year, but mine was 7' and I use a very small Shimano 500 series. This is also rated for very light line. My set-up works very well and can cast quite far. Here is my set-up. You obvious won't need all the guides that I used and you won't need all of the KB's. Guide
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Barry Chapman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > G'Day Chad I agree with the not enough tension > group .My wrapping is set at 101 grams (that is > when the spool just starts to revolve & I never > have any problems with loose guides .As I move > closer to the tip I will increase the tension > slightly to compensate for the greater flex i
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Do a practice wrap on some scrap and make it bad in terms of nips. Coat once and see what you can do with it. Try going into the thread and see what happens. See if you can fix the appearance if you go into the thread. You might be surprised what you can do. Try cutting them with a razor (be careful) and see how that goes for you. The point is to try something out before you do it on someth
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2X on what Garry mentioned above. Remember less is better in this case - less finish = better looking!
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Rod finish that is starting to set will be more difficult to apply only a small amount.
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You could also re-wrap the thread onto small bobbin and then hold them together in your hand while wrapping.
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It will be difficult to get a level finish when the sub-strait isn't smooth (ripple free). You could try to smooth the finish first with gentle sanding, but be careful not to go too far.
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Jim Gamble Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ripples = Too much finish. Get some piece of > practice blank and work on technique. Use less > epoxy AND do it with a fresh batch. 2X I've found that less is more when applying rod finish. Several thin coats will yield better appearance, at least when I did it. Others will chime in and have other i
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Jeremy Merkel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thank you for the help. I have read that article > in the library 3+ times and it finally clicked > once I pulled out a calipers and tape measure and > measured it all out. > > I got 36mm for my spool diameter on the 500 reel, > so the choke guide would be 38.25" from the reel? >
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Epoxy for rod finish is design around volume mix not by weight. If you do insist on using weight you will need to know the specific gravity of each component to figure out the weight for each. You will not be using the same weight because each component has a different density.
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Roger Templon Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I always use adjustable arm desk lamps with > incandesent light bulbs to GENTLY warm the finish > just after applying to the wraps. This helps to > get any bubbles out of the finish, smooths out and > levels the finish, flows the finish into the > "tunnels" beside the guide foot, and
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I have used my small 3/4 bathroom with a small heater once the epoxy isn't in the runny state without any problems. You just need to make sure the that when you stand the rod up that the epoxy won't run.
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Mike commented about checking out Angers Resc and then clink on the link Theory of the New Guide Concept .This will walk you step by step through the process. If you have any questions about it post them here for help. I built a ultra light 7 footer using the same 500 size Shimano reel. If you have questions about your layout after you try to figure it you can shoot me a email. The stri
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I don't know, I tried different circuits that were on different electrical branches. They all gave the same results. It is very faint, you have to barely touch the bed surface and slowing mover you finger along and it was there. I have several people try and they all had the same sensation. But it is corrected with the 3 wire with the green connected to one of the screws. I'm happy
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My ALPS wrapper cam from Get Bit and I'm very happy with it. The one thing that I needed to do with it was to change out the power cord with a two-wire w/ground. I needed to add the ground wire to eliminate a small sensation I was feeling in the bed when plugged in with the power switch was in the "off" position. I discussed this with Batson and they sent me another power set-up t
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Ken Finch Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mexico remains part of North America last time I > checked. Yep, Ken you're right, my mistake.
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Not All SCII's are US made, some are in Mexico.
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