Tom, I've seen rod dryers that people use and ones that people sell that don't allow for center lining the rod (keeping the rod axis level). For example the drum style are made to contact the rod handle in most cases and then part of the blank further up the rod. Any explanation on this? Thanks
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Roger, You're amazing at how quickly you can come to the aid of others when a problem arises. We are fortunate to have you frequent this site.
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I received my rod build on Saturday installed the handle and temporarily attached the guides per GPS and made my first test cast with it today. This is truly amazing. The line just flew out of the guides with ease. My wife couldn't believe how easy it looked to get such a long cast. It was a little challenging to handle the small guides, but once I master using the stretchy thread it went qui
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No need to apologize, it was out of our control.
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Thanks Billy, I just has me PC completely cleaned and tweaked if you know what I mean. So I'm a little cautious about adding the software, but I sure would like to use it. Thanks again for everything that you have done and I'm looking forward to that thread packing tool when they come in. I've go four rod builds in front of me so I may have to continue to use what I've been using until th
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Thanks John for your quick response. I wonder why the software doesn't come in updated versions for those of us that have different operating systems. I'd really hate to go in and start messing with files that end up making everything malfunction if you know what I mean.
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John, Was there much to do to get VW set-up to run a Windows 7 operating system? Do you having any bugs or work around that needed to be addressed? Just asking because I would have the same issues with my computer.
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I've found using a small fine file works well and it is a little safer to use than a razor blade.
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Thanks Jim, I order my components yesterday so I just wanted to have a better understanding before they arrived later this week.
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JIm, When looking at the published paper, I noticed that the guide locations are determined when the measurements are to the "front" of the guide foot, is this correct when following the GPS software as well?
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Thanks Jim for sharing this information with us. I didn't have the correct choice to pick from the list on where I heard(read) about the new information so I just pick one.
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I can't really say why it didn't work, but to be fair I only tried it once. I might have been able to master (no pun intended) the technique with more time. I'm not sure if temperature played a part on not. It has been quite sometime since I tried it, I can't remember. I certainly wasn't bashing the product, so I hope it wasn't taken that way.
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I think Bruce is using the carriage to hold the thread and all the tension is coming from his fingers, is that correct Bruce?
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I ordered some and only used in once. It took days (like 4-5) before it was tack free. I've not used it since.
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Kyle, I'm to somewhat of a rookie with rod building, but I'd like to think I'm getting better. I've used flexcoat high build for all of my rods so far. They did start out with some footballs, some needed touch-ups and second coats, but they are getting much better and my technique is improving. I don't mix mine in a cup. I do use the syringes and have mixes as little as 1/2 cc of A and B w
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Nice promotion Kevin!
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I'd like to thank everyone for their responses. I know they have been a great help to me and it sounds like others may have learned a few things as well. I will definitely be posting again if I have any questions and will most definitely be reading others topics as they come up.
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I think others would say you're selling yourself short by keeping your prices so low and hurting others that are trying to make a living doing what you're doing. What would happen if you were to see them for a fair price considering what your time and talent is worth? I'm just asking.
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Fred, That was how I understand the sliding fee scale. You're compensated for your labor (need to figure out what you need as a minimum for building the basic rod - nothing fancy) then based on component prices your labor goes up. Then you have adders for underwraps, decorative butt wraps, weaves, etc. Those prices could be based on thread count or some other metric. In a since it is a
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Don, I think we all know that one must follow the money in order to make a living. By the way, thanks for responding.
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One could use a sliding scale tied to the cost of the componets being used (higher price parts => higher cost for labor) plus the cost for extras like decorative butt wraps or using a new guide set-up design. This is just a thought and I toss it out for discussion only.
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Thanks Michael for your comments. I don't really know much about fly rods and so your comments are worth reading. Can you tell me how to interrupt the action or does each company have their own nomenclature?
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I think SJ9000 is more suited for what you're looking for. The CB903 is Mod-Fast action which is more for crankbaits, more forgiveness on a strike with less chance of the fish coming off. The SJ9000 is a fast action and therefore gathers up your line more quickly increasing your fish hooking success.
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When using the Shimona 1000, the GPS software suggest placing my first striper guide (20mm) 12.17” from the spool shaft end. This seems really close to me from reading some of the literature on Anglers Resource’s web page. On their website they're recommending the first guide in the 19-21” range. If I follow that then I’m using a 10mm (19.13") striper guide followed by KLH5.5 at 24.2
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I have to agree. I needed to down size my decal to fit onto an ultra-lite blank. Same day service with a email showing the side-by-side difference and the order was placed and received within several days. Thanks Debbie!
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Has anyone tried to use the smallest wire ties to hold the guides in place? Chet
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I believe 836 would not match, it appears to be on the blue side.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here is a very nice epoxy with a nice slow drying > time to allow for construction setup before the > glue sets. > It is also very economical at 1.46 cents per oz. > > This is a pair of bottles - 16 oz in each bottle > for a total of 32 oz of glue for $47. > > Any glue does have
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Tom, If you have an open wrap and apply additional epoxy layers would you be able to block sand to achieve a flat surface. Then follow-up with your last epoxy coat there by having a flat finish over the open wrap? Thanks
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These are all great suggestions by people that are way more experienced then me. I've been building for about a year now. I've started using Gudebrod the I used some Fish Hawk ProWrap and now I'm onto using some embroidery thread I get at my local fabric and craft store. Now sure I can say the name but the initials are C & C. This seems to work well for me and the color selection is great
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