When I get my issue of the magazine, I will comment. I think that I understand what Tom's been up to, but want to be sure. I have used several types of tablets, coated with various exotic coatings. I've even used silica gel to control ambient moisture with success. From time to time, I will dunk one of my samples to keep it honest. If it fizzes, I'm OK. So far, it's working. I haven't had
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I really don't think that this highjack was done by amateur 'hackers' fooling around. The depth of this hijack indicates that some deep serious thought went into its being. It will also be difficult to apprehend them as they' usually 'cover their tracks' very well. It will take some time to straighten out as even when you've thought that you've caught it all, another thing jumps out.
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I haven't purchased any 'micro' components since this last revival. I have, however, purchased small components to build a 12 foot UL Surf rod. It started as a project to make a rod for freshwater crappie fishing and it served well. It was designed to cast tiny crappie jigs while providing enough moxie to pull crappie from some rather heavy stuff. I took up serious surf fishing again after
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You guys keep mentioning the changing of the direction of rotation. I have a wrapper/dryer that is supposed to reverse direction when the switch is turned on and off. After repeated switch operations, mine still turns in the same direction. Am I missing something? C2
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As others obviously do, I visit every forum on rodbuilding including this one, that I can find. If you confine yourself to only one forum, you're overlooking some good information. Keep an open mind. JMHO C2
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The setup that I saw had three sections: The first was the rod which plugged into a ferrule on the handle, The handle then plugged via ferrule into the grip. You could adjust the rod, handle or grip to suit any taste. I always thought that different length grip sections could be plugged into the handle sections. Just a thought. C2
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In my travels, I saw a rod grip much as Chris describes. It was a 'homemade custom' affair. being held in place with friction tape. The rod was a three piece with a rod, handle, then the grip. You could adjust the entire rod to make it a complete custom. JMHO C2
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I hesitate to post, believing in Don Meridith's advice about the higher the monkey climbs a tree, , the more of his backside to present a target to shoot at, but here it goes. I couldn't pass this one up. I started making rods under my Dad;s tutelage? some 69 years ago using bamboo and greenheart . twisting our guides from wire and using silk thread to wrap.. My Dad was a taskmaster, ofte
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To prevent confusion, be sure to make alignment marks (dots?) on each section. This makes life so much easier. C2
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I put on a reel replacement jig then run a brightly colored line (old flyline is nice) through the guides to the tip. Attach a weight to the end of the line. Pull enough tension to make a slight bow in the rod. Adjust the guides until the line is centered at the top or bottom edge of each guide. This will also work with a spiral wrap. BTW; I learned this many years ago from someone. I think th
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If I use a Tuekshead Knot at all, I use it on the butt and as Raymond says, as a transition. The example shown by Raymond is another variation of knotting used for covering. Most people that I have taught to do the knot, aren't patient and don't follow directions. Learn the Boy Scout Woggle (Kerchief) Knot well then progress. Again, people try to get too ambitious and want to make something
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Since you mentioned Alvey, you brought back memories. The reels, as you post, were humongous in diameter. The guide placement was unique to say the least. The first was halfway from the reel spool to the tip and had to be at least a 50mm; the next was halfway between this one and the tip and was a 40mm. The next was halfway from this guide to the tip top and was a 30. The next was halfway from th
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Bernie; You have been one of my gurus for many moons and I do believe that your work is art. I learned inlay from an old tutorial that you did many years ago. BTW; you and I are the same age: 39. Hang in there. C2
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1986? I'm sure that I saw it long before that. It isn't recent, by any means. I was thinking about where I saw it and I thought maybe an old Herter catalog. It sounded like something that old George Leonard would come up with. I'll keep looking. I usually get several threatening letters from attorneys threatening to take my house and fishing tackle if I don't 'cease and desist'. It's an
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Little old Inventor, moi, just made one! I took a tube that would fit into the rod butt, capped off one end and inserted 2 each Alka Seltzer tablets. In the other end, I inserted a small styrofoam plug(float) with a hole punched through the middle with a piece of braid attached. I immersed this creation in the sink and the gas pressure pushed the styrofoam flaoat out of the end of the tube
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The thing, as I remember it, fitted right into the butt of the rod. Something was activated by exposure to water and allowed the small float to bob to the surface. I don't think that mere exposure to rain/moisture would activate it. Maybe it wasn't Alka Seltzer tablets? I'm looking in some old stuff that I have stashed to see if it may still be around. I haven't thought about it for years be
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Let me look in my archives. I think the thing was activated by Alka-Seltzer tablets which provided the gas to make it float to to the water surface. My idea would be to attach the flotation device with a water soluble tape which would allow the water to get to the tablets. I'm looking and thinking. C2
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Somewhere in my travels, I came across a flotation device which attached to the reel handle. If the rod and reel fell overboard, the flotation device with lanyard, would disengage from the rod handle and float to the water surface, where the rod and reel could be retrieved. BTW; my Volume 11 Issue 4 of the magazine (with decal)arrived yesterday. Well traveled, but intact. My expiration iss
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Simply; and I mean simply;. sensitivity is the ability to detect what's happening at the end of your line. A lot of factors come into play that will affect a rod's sensitivity. JMHO C2
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The Lowrider System places the butt guide backwards. Do the rest of the guides have rather long ramps? If not; maybe someone got creative and maybe tried to emulate the Lowrider system. JMHO C2
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I'm still trying to figure out how Tom is going to ship a rod along with the magazine. Seriously; just when I think that Tom has 'peaked' out, he comes ot with something better. Keep up the good work TK!. C2
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The acronym 'CCC' has been taken. It was the Civilian Conservation Corps formed after the Depression to employ youths. They built a lot of things that still exist today. Seriously; 'United we stand and divided we fall', to paraphrase some famous dead person........ I agree with Steve in that instead of forming another group, we work closely with the CCA to present a united and greater lob
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Volume 6 Issue #5 That issue also has an outstanding article on color change weaving by Jim Upton. Well worth the price of admission! c2
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The only rule is: There are no rules! You can space the guides the same as you do a conventional and do the spiral thing from there. I have a mental thing that I don't put the butt guide less than 18 inches from the seat. and the first 180 guide has to be before the flex point. I make spiral surf rods and put the butt guide on the ferrule. The rest of the guides go on the tip. I use ligh
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Thanks for remembering Joe Brooks' I started fly fishing(my first love) as a kid of 12 in 1946 I grew up listening to Joe Brooks and his advice on fly fishing. I still take the old flyrod off the shelf once in a while and go wade.. Every time that I do, I think of Joe Brooks and his influence on my fishing life. Who remembers Jason Lucas? Or Homer Circle? Again; thanks for the memori
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Maybe a photograph if possible. I have an old Montague rod that I'll go look at. It may be what you're looking for. Lots of luck in your search!
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I go back to the days of cord winding and believe that split grips were originally caused by laziness. Time spent wrapping cord in the unused space consumed valuable fishing time. We didn't, and I still don't, apply, any finish to the cord which makes a very attractive and functional grip. It was easier to wrap the cord just enough to act as grips. The space between really didn't matter. I
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I first encountered this problem when the guide spacing put the last guide at the ferrule. I went ahead and wrapped the guide there but like the poster says, put a few thread turns between the lip of the ferrule and start of the guide foot. I fished this rod with no problems. It was a surf rod and power cast. . I now buid this way with no worry. .C2
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I build surf rods and use a shockleader. The way that I test new knots is to take a guide and pass it over the knot. If it clears easily , I'll put it. on a rod If not, it's back to trying another size. C2
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The Fuji Lowrider System is their answer to the Interline rods. Both Shimano and Daiwa designed their reels with a 4 degree upsweep to make the intersection point at 120 cm on these rods. Fuji made their butt guide at guess what?; 120 cm. They also turned the butt guide around. The Interline rods also have a funny lookig first(and only) guide. It has to make the line bend to enter the rod.
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