John Martines Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >.The thing is if Fuji or > Amtak came out with the product how many would > jump on it?? Or Rich Forhan? JMHO C2
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I use Sally Hansen Hard as Nails to finish jigs, but not to replace regular rod finish. C2
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I have a 12 foot spinning rod made from a crappie rod blank. I use it with jigs up to 1/2 oz in the surf. Prior to this rod, I used a flyr od blank and it worked quite well. There was an article in Rodmaker about making a spinning rod from, I believe, was a flyrod blank. C2
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I'm kinda interested in this method.. No; I haven't quit spiral wrapped rods. I have one stoopid question:??? Has anyone done a rod which uses a conventional reel? Does the reel spool diameter work with a 27X to locate the choke guide? C2
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It's coming back and I do thank you for your assistance. I do the 'No Bling'(Basic Black) thing so I would not need a CP. I had a major stroke in December and was in rehab until February. I'm doing the home thing now. I do have some trouble on the right side but still can't remember things. Again; thanks. BTW; I did a search before I posted, but must have done something wrong. It found nada
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I was cleaning out my stash and came across this partially used quart bottle of Future Floor Finish. Memory fails me here, but maybe someone's doesn't. It is an acrylic, non-yellowing floor finish, that sounds good. What was it used for and why did we stop? Old Heads; help me here! C2
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > One thing to look for would be how the line under > pressure goes back onto the reel Checking for > build up on one side or not Of course depending on > the reel used Look into the so-called New Zealand Spiral Wrap. They place a one size smaller guide just ahead of the butt guide(tamer?) which p
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These rods are marketed by Daiwa and I think; Shimano. They work well but through experience, I have found these 'problems'? The little wire that is used to thread the line through has a habit of hiding, with a high attrition rate. Every little critter that makes a web will establish residence inside the tube(See wire) when stored. They have a bad habit of getting stopped up with gras
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I have found the easy way to prevent line slap with micros with a conventional setup is to use a spiral wrap. JMHO C2
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Thanks Neil, As you know, I am one of the long in the tooth(no teeth?) crowd, with a bunch of 'stuff'. There's a classic saying " I hope my wife doesn't sell this stuff for what I told her I paid for it', which is applicable. I, too have a ton of 'stuff' that would probably have found it's way to the landfill, but I put it in my will to have one of my fishing/rodbuilding friends com
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I use the spiral wrap on light (2-6#) test rods with micro guides. Spiral wrap was the only way to go to prevent line slap with those tiny guides. C2
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May be Lowriders. The first guide is 47.25 inches from reel and is installed backwards. C2
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Email me for latest news from the US Distributor about anticipated delivery dates. They are coming and mine is still not for sale. C2
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I have no heartburn with using Nylon cord with a finish, I'm not locked into Tarred Seiners Twine by any means. It's more durable for combat rail fishing applications. I think that the Seiners Twine is nylon treated with tar. You could probably pass nylon through some kind of finish then wrap. It would probably be messy, so I would just apply finish after the wrap is completed. I would say
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I use Tarred Seiners Twine for handles and foregrips; #60 for thicker blanks and #72 for the thinner ones. I have used a lot of different material to wrap grips over the years but have pretty well settled on this twine. If you want colors other than basic black; look for another material. I have used nylon net cord with a varnish finish with some success. It is not as durable as Seiners Twine
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Tom is right. Get a wooden dowel, a guide and some thread and practice. practice, practice. JMHO C2
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WARNING: It's very addictive. JMHE C2
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I wrap my handles and foregrips with tarred seiner's twine. It is black only. No; it won't get your hands black. I use either a #60 for thicker blanks and #72 for the thinner blanks. Wrap the cord just as you do a guide; starting and finishing it the same. I wrap in the same direction as the hand grips the rod and don't apply any finish. I sometimes get creative and do a split gri
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Another thing to consider is the length of, and material used, for the foregrip .You will be banging it on the rail if you catch a big fish. That's where a good cord wrap comes into play. They wrap what is called a 'Deckhand' wrap where both the handle and foregrip are cord wrapped. Works for them. C2
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Creative Ropecraft by Stuart Grainger C2
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I use fluorescent shop lights from Home Depot. They are suspended by chains and the distance from the bench can be adjusted. They are very affordable. I have one over my work bench and one over my rod bench. The overhead lights are halogen. C2
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If I'm going to wrap several rods that day, or with long underwraps, I'd definitely use the power. You can set up the rollers on the thread carriage to follow the wraps like a puppy and do some good tight wraps. On the other hand, I know some fine builders that use the power wrapper to make about three turns then burnish. In that case, a hand wrapper would suffice. C2
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There is a spider in Florida especially, called the Brown Recluse. I had a neighbor who almost lost a finger after being bitten by one, He required months of painful therapy. This is along with the other usual creepy crawlies. I watch like a hawk because they are there. I'd advise anyone to use some kind of stick to check for, and to evict them, with a can of bug spray to greet them. C2
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I still have a handle that I made to use either way. I put a seat on a piece of graphite and made ferrules on each end. Make a little plug to stick in the unused ferrule. Keeps dirt and creepy crawlies out. You could make the plug a little longer to make a belly butt. C2
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My vote is for the hand wrapper to start. I use the power wrapper to wrap long underwraps but disconnect the belt to use as a hand wrapper otherwise. JMHO C2
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I was 'micro' before they became 'micros' and didn't realize it. I made 'peewee poles' with 'teeny guides' many moons ago, C2
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A slip fit. as Tom describes with a thin coat of epoxy under the seat will work. All of the rods that I have seen broken right in front of the seat had the seat 'jammed' on with little or no epoxy between the blank and seat. Too frequent to be coincidental. JMHO C2
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Billy; You and I have exchanged barbs over the years and it's been fun. You came up a couple of notches in my book when you helped a kid; He'll remember that kind act for life. I read(or heard) somewhere that the tallest a man can stand is that when he stoops to help a child. I'n still trying to find out how you dressed this year. I fear that Doc Ski may have outdone you. lol! Have
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From my experience, I think that you can look around and find a blank exactly what you want. The manufacturer designs arod for it for its intended use and not to be modified too much. If I were(had to) trim a blank, I would do as others have suggested and trim from the butt. I went the other way around. I built a 12 foot UL surf rod from a crappie pole blank. It's a ball with Pompano et a
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I was severely chastised during my early efforts at making decorative wraps. My biggest problem was the uneven spacing which I though was really cool. I now find that it's come full circle from the regimented spacing that I can't do anyhow. I can do this! Thanks C2
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