matthew, thanks for the heads-up.
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hi ladd..try volume 6 issue 4 for dr. bills fly ine analizer...i made one and was ver surprised at how accurate it is... i also use it ti weigh my bass hair bugs dry and wet. lol.
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hi mark..i typed an lol after my remark mostly because i,m laughing at myself that i see in you.. i,ve been tinkering with rods for over 50 years and experienced a good bit of the quirks of rod building and when i see others having to experience these things it brings up a chuckle and reminds me of my little conflicts with the same question although i must admit your questions are a little deeper
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phil, what you say seems to be exagerated with a lot of rod builders...too much analizing. lol.
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thanks jay, you said it a lot better than i did. lol.
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thanks jay, you said it a lot better than i did. lol.
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thanks jay, you said it a lot better than i did. lol.
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this looks like another reason to use CP.
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the other day i was getting ready to put guides on a rod and i said "talk to me rod" and all it did was give me a blank stare. lol.
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hi mark..it looks like you have a reason to take up fly tying. lol.
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don,t most nylon fishing lines have two strengths...dry and wet..dry is much higher.
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never mind...my silly nephew said, why don,t you just loop the line around the rod butt to get it tothe other side of the rod..DUH!
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thanks everyone for replying but i just thinking of making a simple spiral pistol grip spinner bait rod that has one telescopic joint so that i can swing the line from left ha nd spiral to right hand spiral and back to counteract line build up on the reel spool. i haave an old ugly stick 70" blank somewhere to play with and was just trying to get a feel for how much shorter it would get if i
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i,m thinking of taking a 6' blank and cutting off about one foot of the butt and then inserting the tip section into the butt section...how long will the rod be then...has any tried this thanks.
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maybe paint or flock the whole seat.
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hi phil, the thing that caught my eye was the weight backward of the skagit head which when turned around made a super heavy weight forward line for these big heavy wind resistant bugs....all i had to do was add the running line..i could have used 30# dacron backing for a running line and probably got more casting distance but i wan ted something a little meatier to hold on when setting the hook
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hi phil, thanks for the charts...the spey line chart looks interesting.. something to think about.
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ok, phil..
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hi phil, yes you are correct. it is a skagit head line. my mistake i misspoke. what i liked about it was not only the weight but also the taper... the back half of the 27' contained most of the weight so that spooled backwards you ended up with a super weight forward line and it kicked arse. it throws that big hairy bug like it was a flea...all i had to do was attach a running line and i was in b
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hi phil, it,s just an overweight henshall bug for surface fishing mostly at night..with a 6" body and tail and 6" wing span. it looks like a big moth or a bat fell in the water...the fly line floats. i use a 71/2 foot flip/pitch rod blank to build the fly rod on..once the bug gets soaked it weighs about 150 grains so i need the rods power..here,s a tip, build yourself one of dr. bills
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hi michael, yes it looks like rope but it,s only a 27 foot rope, lol...i fused a piece of #7 cheap level line to it in order fish with it, to cast.
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no tom, i built a rod t handle it, but other fishers ask what the line size is and i say 720 grains and they keep asking for a line number so i was asking here in case someone knew...the best charts show is #15 but that,s 550 grains, getting close, lol.
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thanks for replying..no, it,s skagit line, 27 feet and 720 grains..i figure at 30 feet it,s about 800 grains...it,s the only line i can find to cast oversize hairbuga that i make...i cast conventioal not skagit style and works real well..i wanted to know if there was a regular line number, but i guess not.. thanks.
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i have an 800 grain fly line..what would the line number be...i can,t find it on any fly line charts..my guess would be around #18..any ideas ,thanks.
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hi mark and tom s., im i getting closer to understanding these ferrules by thinking that when a fishing rod is flexed you have forces stretching and compressing the rod on the outside surface and as well on the inside surface of tthe rod so it makes more sense to use a thin tube or sleeve on the outside and another thin tube or sleeve on the inside of the rod to transmit bending forces smoothly f
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hi mark, this stuff is interesting..just one question..why not just double the wall thickness of the outer sleeve and omit the inner spigot all together or would it too much heavier.. thanks for all your work.
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hi mark..i,m sure your aware that the biggest problem with ferrules is how well do they wear over time...does the inner ferrule wear at the same rate as the outer, etc....or maybe they don,t wear at all, then you would really have something there, lol...just wondering..thanks.
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thanks mark...i,m sure you put in a lot of time to develope these ferrules it had to be very rewarding to see it work out so nicely...again thanks for sharing..i do agree, it would fit in the magazine very well.
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i agree with roger...i make these types with cabelas telescopic pan fish rods..each section is about one foot long...they come in 10 12 feet lengths...just make your rod fro m the first 5 or 6 feet..i,ve made several fly rods from the first 8 to 9 feet and just cut the tip section back to handle the different line sizes i want to use...put afly guide at each junction. you don,t have to worry abo
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i guess your talking about e poxy glue...many years ago i mixed flex coat 5 min. with 20 min. glue and it did not set up at all. hard with other resin and visy versy didn,t set up..but this is from a failing memory...try a sample
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