Mark, i use the slow cure epoxy for flocking because it goes on very thick..it wasn,t optimum flow even in summer heat..lol..but that,s what i wanted..
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John, i wonder what kind of fumes you get from that reaction..lol..maybe it makes hair grow back?lol..
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an 8" three cornered file run along an edge of masking tape, outside..use the file to knock off the rough edges.
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both my brother and nephew never fly fished or wanted to..i handed them my tenkara rod and gave no instructions except to watch me..now i can,t get my rods back..i think it,s a good way to gain a sense of timing..they don,t know it yet but if they picked up a fly rod they would fall in love with it too..
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Keith, have you tried size B thread yet..it,s diameter is right between A and D..because of my poor vision i tried D but then tried B later..i,m still with B thread..give it a try..it,s a little less bulkier wrap and CP penetrates like using A thread..you can hardly tell a difference but easier to see..
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in case anyone is interested this little rod has an IP of 130 grams, not much to it but it will coil and uncoil..
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I think braid is best for B&A rods because when you load the rod all the energy goes into the rod, none into the line but the line is so short that i doubt there is any difference in any line used and even if the line stretched alot, it would help launch the lure when released..but like already said, braided line is the safest because it does not stretch enough to cause injury when it breaks
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > thanks for the warning i didn,t know 10# power pro > stretched that much especially against a 50" rod > tip cut from a 61/2' light power glass rod.. build one..it,s a fun way to fish..only $30 in materials..great for farm ponds..
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thanks for the warning i didn,t know 10# power pro stretched that much especially against a 50" rod tip cut from a 61/2' light power glass rod..
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Does it still come through the mail? lol.
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Phil, i have been working for better than a year to develope a rod with it,s main purpose to make a B&A cast with ease..so far i have found the rod material, the rod length,and the rod power that gives 30 to 40' casts..believe me rods can store and unload a good deal of power on their own without a casting motion..
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Ha, i remember that picture too, and i think it was G. Bush jr. just a regular guy..lol. yea, a spiral wrapped spinning rod would be perfect for him..lol.
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That,s interesting Roger..i,ve been fishing jerk baits on spinning gear but casting gear is a little easier, maybe if i build a spiral wrapped spinning rod..it would be a first..can you imagin the looks it would get..lol.
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I,m not understanding why it matters if the tip is up or down when using a spiral wrapped rod..from the fishes point of view the tip is always up unless it,s a flying fish..lol.
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B&A casting is best done on spinning outfits..i never heard of it done on casting reels or fly rods..
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The importance of a rod's "flex" is to eliminate > slack during the cast. Too stiff a rod and the > bait or lure gets jerked forward, creating slack, > and a short cast. Prove it t to yourself. Tie a > string to a weight, place the weight behind you, > and suddenly (sidearm) jerk the
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I can,t remember when i last built a baitcaster..it,s been all spinning or fly..at one time it was the other way around but the new super lines put an end to that and spinning made a comeback, big time..i don,t miss baitcasers one bit and you can purchase a very good spinner for half the price of a top line caster..
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Hi Roger, in Rod Maker Vol. 4 issue 2 Tom published the results of a test he made of guide wraps with and without CP..he also looked at using just CP on the wrap..it took 11# to pull out guides with just epoxy(no CP)..and 10# to pull out guides coated with CP and epoxy..in both cases the guides would deform at about 7# before they eventually popped loose..the guides with only CP popped loose at a
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it,s surprising how much easier removing and cleaning up guide wraps are if CP was applied to the wraps and the epoxy wasn,t allowed to soak through the wraps to the blank..
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the fewer guides you try to use, the more critical guide spacing becomes..one or two more guides than standard makes guide spacing less critical..
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Phil, but it will..i made two 50" E=glass rods that toss a 1/4 ounce rattle trap 30 to 35' using a bow and arrow cast..i pull the lure back and release, the rod does the rest..this cast really comes in handy in tight brushy conditions when bank fishing..
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I once asked a fishing buddy why he doesn,t fly fish, he said he quit fishing with a hand line many years ago..i just laughed.. he had me there..lol.
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blanks are so well made today that the spine is so weak and really not worth looking for..even low priced E-glass rods don,t have near the spine they used to..it,s a non-issue any more..i make them so they look straight.
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I was lucky enough to find this site 19 years ago and it was just as good then as now..no drop off..there was always a really knowledgable core group of builders to answer questions..my biggest problem at that time was loosing bass over four or five pounds because the wire ieguides would dig into the line and i could not feed out line while under strong fish fighting pressure but at the time i th
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if i owned a fly fish shop, a would tag each rod with the CCS numbers..not all at once but a few each day..when a customer asked questions about it, that would be an opportunity to do a little education..
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CCS
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I thought Lefty was the one touting the use of the tall spin butt guide..he can,t seem to make up his mind..lol.
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Phil, don,t forget the other elements; Wind, Fire, and Earth..no wonder i can,t cast over forty feet..i thought maybe my bass bugs were too hairy..lol.
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i think most builders point single foots toward the butt and the ring leans a little towards the tip..
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like Phil says, fly tying bobbin..some people use it with a power wrapper too..
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