hi Mark...that sounds like an interesting study..the type line would be a major factor..if you use mono for your comparison, the COF may come out on top but if you use braid the KR concept will rule but COF may make a better show than it did with the mono..
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the places i fish, if the fish is one hundred yards out, he would be in the next state..lol.
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > just curious Bill, but how long has it been since > that rod was last disassembled? if ever..lol. is it a four piece rod that has been used like a two piece rod for most of it,s use?
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just curious Bill, but how long has it been since that rod was last disassembled? if ever..lol.
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add two guides and get over it..lol.
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yes Mo, pull lure back to bend rod and release to shoot lure..the same can be done with a graphite rod but the timing is much faster and more difficult..the time lure isreleased and then the line on the spool is released by the other hand is much easier with a glass rod for me that is..it takes a little practise..
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Mo, i just now spotted your question about guide placement tests..it,s not just guide placement i,m looking at..it,s guide sizes, guide number, ring material, lines and line sizes..my last project was to develope a better easier bow and arrow rod for bank fishing brushy shores and creeks..i ended up with a 50 to 55" glass spin rod that can shoot a quarter ounce trap close to sixty feet usin
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i don,t think one guide is going to transfer very much energy from the rod to set the hook and fight the fish but i guess you can do that by hand lining it..sure would be fun to watch..lol..fly fishers set the hook by hand a good bit but still use the rod to fight the fish, they don,t have to but they do..must have something to do with tradition..lol..
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Joe, i applied up to 5 or 6 coats about an hour apart on the tall guides and 2 or 3 on runners..as they dried the coats got harder and held the guide better..Norm, you are c orrect..perma gloss is the best way to go..i hated the fumes, even wore a mask with filters..it got to be too much bother to use and too permanent, difficult to clean up and make changes on guides..the U-40 people have develo
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Mo, i like to play around with different guide set lay ups and used flex coat cp to hold the wraps together..it worked pretty good..easy clean up before trying next set up..this seymo looks even better because of it,s water resistance but still easy clean up..my next rod i,ll try the seymo..on test wraps, three or four coats were enough..the guides are very easy to remove and any residue just wip
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Mo, even with unicorn thread you will need to apply some kind of finish to protect it from bumps and scrapes i would think..there is an interesting color preservr and sealer called Seymo that i have tested wraps by submersion in water for 24 hours..no change in color or hardness which seems like it would make a good light one part finish...i,m going to try it on my next rod..if it doesn,t work, i
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Hi Mo..if you saturate your guide wraps with epoxy, your not a true weight weenie..lol.
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Michael, maybe it,s the exspansion from heat and > contraction from cooling over and over that works > it loose... use a hair dryer for heat and then ice for cooling, heat then cool, heat then cool..it might take several cycles..if it works let us know..
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Michael, maybe it,s the exspansion from heat and contraction from cooling over and over that works it loose...
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Lyle, you can,t go wrong by just reading Tom Kirkman's posts..it,s like reading a book on rod building...
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Use rubber dish-washing gloves on both hands and > twist. > If that fails - shape packing tape into loops with > sticky side out and use one on each hand and > twist. > There was a reply here awhile back stating that > carbon contracts with heat and expands with cold. > So the opposit
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with my poor sight and not much finger dexterity, i just start a few wraps on the blank and slip the guide under the last wrap and procede to wrap down from the ring end to the toe end..no tape or rubber bands to fumble with..makes micros much simpler...
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David, what don,t you like about flex coat CP ? especially since it works..
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Dan, i don.t know what type of rods you mainly > build but if your building mostly fly or light > spinning, you might consider a one-part finish > which requires very little turning by hand..i,m > waiting for U-40 to put a new one part finish on > the market..i had a chance to test a sample i got
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Dan, i don.t know what type of rods you mainly build but if your building mostly fly or light spinning, you might consider a one-part finish which requires very little turning by hand..i,m waiting for U-40 to put a new one part finish on the market..i had a chance to test a sample i got from U-40 and love it..they call it Aqua Gloss..it,s great for flyrods and any light stuff in order to maintain
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like Phil says..use short wraps and don,t forget the ferruls, use short wraps here too,or better don,t use frrrule wraps at all, they are not needed since the blank maker has already reinforced them..
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i align only to make a rod appear straight and have no idea where any other axis is..i guess i,m getting some kind of blend of strong and weak axises..i don,t think i would feel a dfference any which way...blanks are layed out much better than in the past..
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weight wise the single foot guides allow you to use a couple more guides over all which will give you smoother line flow and less need for big butt guides..jmo..
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WOW! do people send the whole rod back to you just to replace a tip top??can,t you send a new tip-top guide and they or a friend can put it on..
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if it were my rod , i would use ten single foot guides..and probably a smaller butt guide..i,m not a fan of big stick-out butt guides..maybe a six or eight..
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Tony Boschi Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes, and No. > > My 2 cents on this ..... > > I am sure others will chime in with some other > information, but preserving the color with thread > preserver also SEALS the the thread and the > overcoat you put over the threads (Prokote or > Flexcote or whatever you use) doesn't sa
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i have only done this on two rods, so far so good.and that is to use a few wraps of reinforced gorilla tape instead of masking tape..it,s much thicker and takes fewer wraps but it has to be deglossed with a 3m pad to help adhesion..it,s also water resistant..two wraps would probably fill the gap you have..
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i think i may have the worst guide wrapping habits of anyone on this forum..i never wash my hands before starting..i use a fly tying bobbin and i am constantly handling the thread spool and thread..take breaks and eat something, and go back to winding without washing my hands..i only do one right thing and that is use CP on my completed wraps (usually two coats)and not touch them until finish is
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Chris, in some circles all you need to do is ty a fly on the end of your line and you can call it high tech..lol.
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like Lance, a cane pole, line and a #10 black zonker from a slow moving kick-boat on an old delaware grist mill pond full of white and yellow perch and 9" bluegill..lol.
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