thqnks.Found it on Amazon Prime/ I should have it in a ccouple of days
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Is there a DVD that teaches one how to do cross wraps. Chevrons, Diamonds etc.I just bought one.The guy was fantastic on doing cross wraps, but he sucked on teaching.I think Artie Hebert had a dvd(at one time)but I cannot find it anywhere. If some has one and would be willing to sell it, I would appreciate letting me know.
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I received my "Eco Wrapper" from Clyde and was able to try it out last night.. It seems to be a well thought out tool. I have been wrapping on an American Tackle (Pac Bay type) motorized wrapper and find myself constantly having to back up, which is not a problem until I get to the two guides closest to the tip. The "Eco Wrapper" solves this problem. It is well made and
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Lance has a lot of new castaway blanks just in over the weekend.......I picked up a few of them today :) Roy
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Thanks all I just finished wrapping my first set of guides with the Forhan locking wrap. I used masking tape to hold the guides in place and when my wraps got to the tape I removed the tape and re-aligned the guides. After the all guides were complete with forhan locking wraps installed, they seemed to be well aligned and none required moving. Thanks again for all you folks' help. And
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Tlhanks for the for the heads up Walt. I had emailed the "contact us" at "The Rod Shop", But I didn't get a reply yet. Have you used yours yet? If you have..........(and you don't mind)......email me I have a couple of questions. Thanks Roy
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Thanks Andy..... you were positing while I was typing Roy
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Thanks Ked...thats what I was looking for! I like the idea of an alignment check before the locking wrap. Also... an alignment check when guide wrap is about 70% complete would also help. I have a level attached to each rod I am building as an aid to guide alignment, so alignment checks while winding should do the trick. thanks again. Roy
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Is there a Video of the Eco wrapper in action? I googled it to no avail........... Roy
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I have never tried the Forhan locking wrap, but I will on my next rod, hence my question. Is the quide easily straightend when wrapping is complete? It looks to me like it would keep the quide from moving. Thanks Roy
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Bill Thanks a lot for the offer The blank takes a 5.5 tube size. Roy
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Thanks Scott, I went on their site but the smallest they have is size 6. I'll search around the rest of the vendors. Roy
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I am getting ready to build a baitcasting rod using Tom's Static Guide placement info. I am thinking of using size 4mm and up for the guides, spiral wrapping them. My question is: How small a tip-top should I install?? I plan to use 12 lb mono on a Curado, pitching baby brush hogs with 5/16 ounce weight. Thanks Roy
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Scott I am not using any particular system. I was given a rod and asked to convert it to spiral wrap. The guide closest to the handle (12) was left in place. I stripped the other guides off and bent the rod until I could see a defined curvature. I marked that point as where the transition was going to and installed a (8) guide there, this guide would be 180 degrees from the number (12) guide.
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I'm using 17 lb stren mono. I tried the rod with 12 lb stren and it also pitched with a lot less effort with the #7 tiptop.. I don't think my problem is at the transition but probably the problem lies after the transition. My #6 is at 4 1/2 inches from the tiptop and 9 1/2 from tiptop to 2nd size 6 guide Thanks for all of you folks' input. I'm reluctant to try the micro guides, un
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I built a bait casting setup with medium action on a 7 foot blank. I wrapped the rod using two guides (10's) to make the transition then an 8 and the rest 6''s and I used a #6 tiptop. The rod is wrapped to use as a pitching pole for brushhogs and similar baits. I could get no distance with it.so I took the tiptop off and put a # 7tip...now its okay. My question is: What guides are yo
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Thanks Mike...I'll try the acrylics. some of the acrylics (tubes) are a lot thicker than others. I was buying and using Golden Acrylics until it was no longer available, then I switched to liquitex, which is not as thick but is readily available. I have some acrylic pigment in the little bottles but they are about 10 years old. I'll give them a try to see if they work. Roy
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"Did you let the pigment settle to the bottom of the jar and then pour off all of the solvent?" No I did not,, I'll try that again after the pigment settles out. "There is an article in the library at the top of the page." Yeah, I read it , thats what gave me the inclination to give it a try, however,I was too impatient to wait for the pigment to collect at the bottom"
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I made an attempt at marbelizing.. I used Testors paint mixed with Thread Master finiishing epoxy. From what I had read on the forum, The colors should run together to form a marbleizing effect.. I mixed 4 cc's of Thread Master and poured (after mixing) into 3 separate containers. I did not use acetone. I colored the base coat to the desired color as well as the other two colors and app
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Thanks everyone......Duane..tight tension was my first thought, I am at as loose a wrap as I can be an it still doesn't climb. Thanks for the link Ray....I was not grinding my foot down no where near as thin as the foot on the left. A picture is worth a lot, especially this picture! also a thanks for the support and the elaboration on the foot grinding You folks have taken me out of my di
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I am, thats why I said I am putting a nice ramp on my guides. I probably am not doing them correctly. What I do to prep them, is grind a long ramp and round the sides, but not so thin that they would cut the thread. Then I polish them with Diamond stones.
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I am spending too much time getting the thread to climb up the guide foot when wrapping a guide. I am putting a nice ramp on my guides, but the thread will not climb, I have to force it up the foot. What I do to get the thread started on the foot is wind thread until the thread touches the foot, then I offset it about an 1/8 of an inch, put 4 or 5 wraps and then push the thread down. This
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Great tip Tom White... I was wondering what I was going to use for a mold. I've got lots of Oak and lots of lead. I'll be pouring soon! Thanks a lot! Roy
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Mine sits flat on a table, not fastened down. I have worked cork and eva on it, as well as wrapping rods and have never had a problem with it. I believe it is identical to PacBays wrapper.. I thought about securing it to the bench, but the need has never arisen. I also use the upgraded chuck. Roy
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This is 100% user error on your part ........You are exactly right, ....I figured since I was logged on to the forum, I was already logged in to rodbuilding.org...My error...its a different site..... Most sites leave a cookie, and once registered, if the cookie is not deleted....... When I hit the button to send me to the rodbuilding.org site .....there was no login option......simply that I
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I registered a few weeks ago to access the rod building site. when trying to enter again, the software tells me entry is only for registered members, and that I would have to register. I tried registering again, but the software tells me my username and email address is used by a another member. sure it is .....me. Catch 22 1/2 (been there done that). Ps I don't think the economy sof
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Email me.
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This is my first time using U 40 I mixed some u 40 as per directions on can, about 2 hours ago. The residual in the can is about the consistency of vaseline petroleum jelly, maybe a little thicker. Did I mess up big time? both hardener and resin were measure carefully and room is at 69 deg F. Roy
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In trying to reduce weight on a spinning rod, I view the foregrip as somewhat useless, other than becoming a valance to dress the end of the rod grip. The lightest way I can think of is to leave a quarter inch space at the end of the grip, and fill with colored epoxy. What would be a better/alternative way? I am looking for suggestions. Roy
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Thanks Tom...I will order some today Roy
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