I made an attempt at marbelizing.. I used Testors paint mixed with Thread Master finiishing epoxy.

From what I had read on the forum, The colors should run together to form a marbleizing effect..

I mixed 4 cc's of Thread Master and poured (after mixing) into 3 separate containers. I did not use acetone.

I colored the base coat to the desired color as well as the other two colors and applied the base coat to 3 linear inches of rod.

I then took a snall pointed brush and put a couple of dots of one color and pulled the coloring in each dot, I then did the same with the third color except this one I used a #6 flat brush and made a few swipes again on the base coat.

I then took my torch and warmed up the surface of the epoxy painted area., Two hours have gone by.

The colors merged ever so slightly, approx 1/16 inch of movement. The colors should have moved more to render a marbleizing effect.

Should I have used acetone to get a thinner mixture thereby having a greater chance of the mixture running a little more??

I would appreciate any suggestions

Roy

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Roy,
I have not had much success with the heat and blend method. I have prepared the pigments as you did, spotted the different colors, rotated the rod on a drying rack, but use toothpicks to drag colors into one another. To me, this gives a better effect (IMHO), and mimics the lines in real marble. I have found that waiting a bit as the epoxy is just starting to set on the rod (test on the foil), then pulling the colors keeps the color lines thinner and more distinct. But there are some experts that post on this board that produce some amazing effects using the method that you describe. Perhaps your environmental conditions hindered the effect, or perhaps there was too much time between mixing and the epoxy mix was curing before being put on the rod. I mix my colors and keep on a flat piece of foil to extend the life of the epoxy.
Try, try again. Experiment

edited to add that I used testors paint with the solvent poured off, then mixed into the epoxy

Life is pretty simple: You do some stuff. Most fails. Some works. You do more of what works. If it works big, others quickly copy it. Then you do something else. The trick is the doing something else.
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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2009 01:25PM by Obed Patty.

The only Testor's that I have used is the metallics. Did you let the pigment settle to the bottom of the jar and then pour off all of the solvent? You need to use the thick pigment, not the paint. It sounds like you may have waited to long to apply and it was set up too much. I mix up the finish and pour small amounts on to foil, leaving enough in the cup for the base coat. I use toothpicks to add/mix the pigments in. I apply the base coat, wait about 5-10 min and add the other colors with a tootpick, swirling them around to get the effect that you want. The only time I would add any heat is if I want a softer, blended cloudy look! Adding any solvent would defeat the purpose

There is an article in the library at the top of the page.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

"Did you let the pigment settle to the bottom of the jar and then pour off all of the solvent?" No I did not,, I'll try that again after the pigment settles out.

"There is an article in the library at the top of the page." Yeah, I read it , thats what gave me the inclination to give it a try, however,I was too impatient to wait for the pigment to collect at the bottom"

Where do you find the Testors metallics? I am having trouble locating the colors I need.

Thanks to all who replied

Bill...... I had a hole in my pants pocket and I lost my decoder ring. Now I'll have to eat more of that junky cereal.

Roy

Roy,

Anyone that sells models should have the Testor's metallics. Te Testors lacquers don't work well because they are too thin and don't settle into a thick pigment. I VERY good source of pigment is a paint or hardware store. You might have to bring your own small containers but they will usually sell or give you some of the really intense pigments used in the their paintblending machine. I also sometimes use the tubes of acrylic PIGMENTS frpm Michaels crafts

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2009 09:00PM by Mike Barkley.

Mike,

How do you get the acryllics to work? The last time I tried that, I got a thick goopy mess just mixing it.

Bill in WV

I test them first, but so far I haven't had any problems but am aware of the problems that some have had in the past. There are some that have used them for a long time with no problems while some have had problems. I play with them but still mainly use TAP pigments and Testor's metallics (Pearl ex powders are great also). I'm still working out of the same $3 bottles that I bought many years ago. IMO, it's still the best stuff and colors can be mixed to get about any shade you want [www.tapplastics.com]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Thanks Mike!!

Bill in WV

Thanks Mike...I'll try the acrylics. some of the acrylics (tubes) are a lot thicker than others. I was buying and using Golden Acrylics until it was no longer available, then I switched to liquitex, which is not as thick but is readily available.

I have some acrylic pigment in the little bottles but they are about 10 years old.

I'll give them a try to see if they work.

Roy

Mike,
i have played around some with marbling, I had some come out very nice and some looked terrible. About a year ago I bought a dozen bottles of Testors Enamel. From what i have read I guess I should let the bottles set and then pour off the solvent. What does this do for the technique

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

I would not advise using acrylics with epoxy! I have nothing but bad experiences with them. You can use the acrylics with the "Swifty" finish if you can find someone that still has it. (At last report Mark and Colleen Griffin at @#$%&-sponsor-still had some.) I like the TAP's pigments best but Testors and Liquid Leaf in gold and silver are also good. I use a toothpick or thread pick to apply finish into the base coat. Better yet come to the ICRBE this month in High Point, NC and watch Mike Barkley's demo! Also Mike had an excellant article in Rodbuilder several years ago that got me started.

Ed Smith
Flat Rock, NC

I've done a little marbling with some pigment I got from Mudhole (new product) with decent results but then again I don't reely know that there is a way to "design" this stuff.