So I'm gonna go with the MXH CS722 blank. Thank you everyone for the input, given the variables I'm aiming to address I feel this rod will be fun to fish! This is replacing my main rod, which I use in many different situations(boat, kayak, bank fishing in the woods where there is nothing but brush surrounding you so it's hard to cast) with many different baits(Ned rid, senko, fluke, bitsy tube, s
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So kinda got busy with life, but I am hoping to make an order for this build after friday, so doing some more looking into it this week! I am thinking of going with a 6ft rod, or maybe a 5'10"(cutting down probably a 6' or 6'6" blank from the BASE of the blank). My idea behind this, is it will help with hook set/aid with the power I've been missing. Plus a 6' rod would be better for my
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Joe I'm happy you chimed in, cause you addressed my main concern with the CRB blank that I'm having. I looked at the SB720 and the SJ720 blank, but I couldn't find the 5'9" blank you mentioned. The SJ720 seems the most appealing to me so far. It has the slate/natural color I prefer and the video they provide sounds like it will be a good match for what I want. And Joe you HAVE had the CRB in
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Yes, Tom. You and I are on the same page, I tried to explain it the best I could but we are both in agreement. I have to get to work but I will try to comment tonight. Thank you!
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Hey everyone, I'm looking to build a 5'6" spinning rod to replace one built in the past. The one I'm using now is a CRB561L through Mudhole. The blank is lacking the action I prefer for the baits I throw, the power isn't the issue it's just the action. I throw for largemouth, smallmouth and sometimes crappie on a bobber rig with minnow. Senkos, flukes, small top water frogs(1/5-1/4oz), bitsy
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I have a thread about this issue in the forum.
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Just use the search function on this site and a ton of good info on it. You really won't even need to ask any questions, the topic has been one of the top discussions on this board.
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I personally am very fond of the New Guide Concept, it's what I've been using and have had amazing results; especially when I do a rebuild. I have not played with the KR concept, though a lot of people do like it. If you go to the library page on this site, there is a PDF link that explains the NGC in detail. It might look 'advanced' initially, but once learned it is very simplistic. I build f
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Just looked up the Okuma Krios, if it is $50 brand new, I would jump on it. Even if it's used, it would still be worth a look!
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Spencer, you are 100% correct. 30 year old reels were usually made in Sweden, Japan, and the US. Now days they are made in China (with exclusion to some made in Malaysia). The composite they use on lower price point reels are better than they were say 10 years ago; yet it is still an upgrade to have an aluminum frame. Less flex in the frame and no chance of getting warped. Overall, baitcas
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Dan, The ONE thing I will say about baitcasters is that try to get one will an aluminum frame. The flex in the graphite/plastic frame reels during a cast will dampen casting quality. At your price point it is tough to find an aluminum frame reel. But if you can, please take a minute and see if you can find one on a deal. I know Scheels uses a lot of Quantum reels for house brand, Quantum has bee
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I know bass pro used to have an eva foam style back in circuit from 2005-2007ish. You might be able to make one from something found at a Westlake Ace hardware, Nuts & Bolts, etc. I've never had luck finding items at Home Depot or Lowes. Maybe some type of foot made for furniture?
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Roger, That is almost exactly what I'm leaning towards! I have a staples close by so I will have to run by and take a look. My girlfriend and I just moved, and she was wanting to throw away 3 of the 3-tier sterilite systems I mentioned that would hold about 4 reels each. I didn't even know she had them (not suprised as it always seems like she has something I had no clue about)!
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I have been switching out my reels depending on where I'm going more often this year compared to the past. And with 50 reels (give or take, never really counted them), I'm trying to find a more convenient way to organize them. I did a Google search and the only thing I could find was using something like a 3-tier drawer system (like the clear sterilite plastic ones) and putting 4 to a drawer. I d
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I've been using the 27x method as you're looking at, with pac bay minima guides. Absolutely love it cause the guides are dirt cheap, so you don't cringe thinking about buying extra guides. It's always a good idea to buy extra guides, and extra sizes. A lot of people on the forum are fans of the minima guides. Use the search tool to do some research and you will feel more comfortable making a deci
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Sheridan said it well. One other tip: Keep it cheap and simple as a beginner. Learn the basics and then go into more 'advanced' concepts.
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I'm with Michael, buy everything seperate. Rod dryer is one thing I would splurge on, but you can make a wrapper out of a cardboard box and use a basic tensioning device. A complete rod kit with components, thread, and glue would be good; but if you keep it basic you can buy everything seperate and still keep it very inexpensive. Use the search engine on this forum to soak up a lot of knowlde
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Is there a certain "white" color or just the brightest I can get? The white floors are a great idea. The basement has a vent, but just one which isn't enough. So with insulation being mentioned, what exactly does that mean? The only barrier right now is concrete foundation, and there ARE small windows near the top of the walls. I refinish/install/repair Harwood floors as a subc
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I'm moving the next few days and have the green light from the landlord to paint the basement walls (which is my rod room). I know I should do a bright color, but that's it past that point. The basement is unfinished, and as a subcontractor I do work for the guy, so I can "get away" with more than what regular tenants could. So I'm wondering what color/sheen for the walls, and what o
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I compare it to throwing a spinnerbait/finesse jig, and I like a 6'9" MH rod for that. I usually use 15 or 17lb fluorocarbon, also. Short enough for roll casts, long enough for a good hookset and long casts. When it comes to blanks I know others will have great suggestions, it also depends on what you want to spend on it, too. Rainshadow RX7 series, and the MHX series would be where I fir
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What about using a cork sealer? I've only used it on a couple rods so far, and the oldest one has been used for half a year. So far it's holding up fantastic. Would this be a possible 'alternative', or will it have the same effects? I'm curious to know because I agree with the cork issue, but so far I have been very pleased with using the U40 cork sealer.
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The first rod I built was a 6'MH cabela's fish eagle II. They use to sell them as kits. I rebuilt it last winter and put a 16mm seat on it, and I wish I did a 17mm. So it wasn't brought up but I would suggest doing a 17mm seat. 6' or even 5'6" would be my choice, just like others have mentioned. If you are using braid with a leader then you could go with a medium action. My rod is a "
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Brennan, The way I look at rod building as a novice is buying the basic (not cheapest) components that will work for the build I'm doing. I suggest this to anyone who is just starting to build rods. Keep it as inexpensive as possible and once you learn the tricks of the trade, you will then know if the $20 reel seat will be that much more beneficial to the $6 one (just an example). To put it
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Marc, Many variables can be at play here: Line choice Bait The reel (roller bearing, spool size, etc.) Age of line When it comes to spinning reels, line management can be a really big pain, especially when spooling new line on it. When I put new line on, I have someone hold the spool of line on a pencil and keep slight pressure on it. The as I wind the line on the reels spool, I hold the
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I have this problem with UL rods, also. The swivel is a quick, easy way to fix it. I personally didn't want to mess with it due to my personal preference (being stubborn mainly). I found that every few cast (depending on the bait) I let a few feet of line dangle and let the bait spin around in the air. Then I stop it with my hand a few times until it stops spinning, it's about a 5-10 second proce
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David I'm in the same ballpark for mindset. Thanks for the clarification!
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That's kinda what I'm looking at David, but you don't think it would be good for light hardbaits topwaters? And I'm not too worried about the spinnerbaits, I just think it would be worth a try/look.
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Thanks everyone for all the input! I am going to do the rebuild as a casting rod, so I'm mainly Going to do this to update the materials and fix the bad stuff the rod had going on. From what I have heard, it looks like I will be focusing on lighter bass hardbaits/wirebaits. I love throwing spinnerbaits, and have always used fast action rods. This will give me a different outlook on that. Ag
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